***Topgunz ROTREX C38R Supercharger Kit***

DrBacon

Your fuel pump most likely already had one

FX-32

I think there's something wrong with your fuel system, possibly an internal leak in the fuel pump, because if you from on to off, the fuel pressure can't drop immediately to zero.
In my car it drops slowly, and in about one or two hours it reaches 0 PSi

Pressure is too low, at idle you should have 52 psi +-1 if I remember correctly.

Duke370z

I was told the dw 440 brushless doesn't have one.

__________________
14 sport/touring 6 MT- Motordyne CBE/Art pipes soon to be topgunz sc
12 touring AT FBO/ tuned- sold

14Q60awdSPORT

Aside from the cost of initial setup, and having another fluid to occasionally fill up.
A proper WMI setup has no cons.

DrBacon

Strongly disagree. You have two choices with water/meth injection

1) Use it as a safety. Tune the car for max "safe" timing on your normal fuel and use water/meth as basically an additive to negate any possible knock and reduce IAT's. Marginal if any increase in power. Car does not depend on it and the system can fail without any real downsides.

2) Use it as a power adder. Timing is increased beyond the normal limits of your pump gas knock rating. Now you've introduced multiple failure points in which can compromise your engine if there was a problem. The wiring can fail, the pump can fail, the nozzle can clog, you can run out of the water/meth mix, etc

None of this even includes the fact that methanol by nature is very corrosive. Yes, the water mix dilutes it and helps, but does not completely eliminate the inherent nature of methanol. Everything downstream after extended use is at risk. Seals, electronics (MAF/Sensors), hell it even eats aluminum too. Now, while there is "probably" going to be a negligible effect over the lifetime of the engine IF using a proper water/meth mix and only activating in boost, is it worth it? I don't think so. Just use ethanol lol.

14Q60awdSPORT

I’ve used it on 3 builds and current build never with any issues whatsoever.

You don’t spray pre MAF…

Properly atomized 49% or less WM mix won’t cause any corrosive issues/concerns to anything that it would come in contact with. It’s too little amount, too low concentration and for too brief of time. If you have poor atomization, spraying way too much, have dripping or pooling issues or spray in the wrong part of the system, sure it would possibly be a concern. But that isn’t a concern on proper setup.

Your 1. Is always an option and has phenomenal benefits to heat soak/consistency of back to back pulls. Always a great easy safe option, but correct I wouldn’t consider it a power adder rather a power retainer.
Your 2. Is incorrect with a proper setup. WMI failsafe pretty much eliminates all of this concern and you can safely tune for the increased octane, cooling, and supplemental fuel being added and get great power gains in addition to the heat soak/consistency from option 1.

DrBacon

The failsafes actually have a way to cut ignition with a factory ecu? Because if I remember right those "failsafes" were just a little indicator light if the nozzle was spraying. That would not save your engine if it decided to fail mid pull, or at worse, human error in failure to verify everything is working every time you get into boost.

14Q60awdSPORT

The failsafe has a 0-5v output that you wire into your ecu the same as a flexfuel sensor/kit would, and when failsafe is triggered it will send a signal to the ecu and your tuner will setup the integration into the tune to have it automatically switch the tune to compensate if failure triggers. IE by adding more fuel, and pulling timing and/or reducing boost. Also the flow gauge tells you precisely when/if and exactly how many CC/min you are spraying as well to make it easy to verify and properly determine nozzle size.

The failsafe will trigger when flowing outside of your set CC/min flow range, pump failure, any electrical issues, wmi controller issues, clogged nozzles, leaky lines, or low fluid etc… pretty much any issues that could go wrong it can detect and automatically adjust tune (if tuner sets up in tune) to be safe if the system malfunctions/fails.

It also has a small light i always install by speedo cluster that will blink/flash indicating a failure, the WMI cc/min flow gauge will also flash. And they flash in various sequences to indicate which of the various failures where triggered.

This allows you to tune more aggressively without concerns.

husam2012

Just had a friend buy this kit and install it himself and I ended up tuning it.

Honestly a great kit out of the box for someone who wants to use E85 otherwise you'll need to add a wastegate to the chargepipe coming out of the blower so you can limit boost.
Using the BOV and a mac valve sucks and it's not the proper way.

Aside from that, the newest kit (received a few weeks ago) only makes about 14~ psi uptop with the bumper on. That translates to around 550whp on 93 with really high EGTs and a little over 600whp on E85. Taking off the front bumper will raise boost by about 2-3 psi and add another 20-30 whp.

One big concern I saw is that installing the kit without modifying the front bumper to increase the airflow will make the engine overheat. We got the car to get to 230F coolant temps doing a 0-120 mph pull. Coolant is bled properly and there's no issues there. If you remove the bumper, the temps stay at a constant 190F which indiciates that there's way too much heat being generated.

__________________
Creator of the GTR TT Conversion Kit, NA Record Holder (401WHP)
Ecutek Master Tuner (VQ37, VR30, VR38, B58, S55, S58)
BTWTuning

HapaZ

I'm experiencing this issue as well. I opened a few discreet holes with a hole saw in my bumper and I'm running at about 227-228 degrees on my coolant temps after pulls. I've been running around 220 degrees when cruising. Last night I opened up two more not-so-discreet holes with ducts to either side of the Nissan logo. I'm not a huge fan of the look. I haven't tested yet, but I'm hoping this will bring the temps down some at least. If not, I'm going with a Stillen bumper and vented hood.

FrankEtier

It's hot in Texas right now. 100 degrees everyday around Dallas where I live. I don't drive the Z everyday but when I do it is with AC on blast. Normal driving I see around 91C. If I make a pull it might go up to 101-104C but very shortly after it is back down around 90-91C. Having the AC on makes the radiator fan run constantly. I figured out that in the fall/winter when I'm driving with no AC the car actually runs hotter than in the summer. I think the programming is set for the fans to come on at 100C (212F) if AC is off.

My first supercharger kit so I don't have really any complaints or much to compare it to. It is not noisy like I have read the Vortech can be other than the BOV.

__________________
‘14 Topgunz Speedworks Rotrex Supercharged VR30 7AT 370Z Magma Red.
@liquid.magma

14Q60awdSPORT

On my 92 pump tune I have zero problems making, and holding about 10.5-11psi with zero creep on the BOV/MAC, And 13psi with zero creep on my E40 tune which is used 99.9% of the time after tuning the 92 pump tune. The BOV was loud when off throttle and at 2.5k+ rpm, so I made a silencer can’t even hear BOV now except immediately off throttle at high rpm, and also routes the air opposite side of filter, possibly helps temps overall not dumping hot charge air all over everything

I have a g37 so a little different possibly but I got a 90 degree elbow and routed the filter behind the front grill right above the intercooler. l get all that direct cool air.
I have zero IAT/charge temp/heat soak issues, coolant issues etc… doing multiple high speed pulls back to back in hot weather.

FrankEtier

I routed the exhaust from the BOV to dump under the car but it is still pretty noisy. What is the silencer you mention?

I've considered using the brake duct cutouts on my front bumper to allow additional direct cooler air flow to the filter..

So far no overheating issues on my setup.

__________________
‘14 Topgunz Speedworks Rotrex Supercharged VR30 7AT 370Z Magma Red.
@liquid.magma

14Q60awdSPORT

I got a 1.5" to 2" coupler to put on the end of the BOV, then a 2" to 2" coupler joint, then a 2" to 2.5" 180 degree elbow. then got a 2" ID PVC pipe approx 9" long, that goes inside the end of the 180degree elbow, capped the end of it. Drilled about 120 or so 1/4 holes in it (none aiming down at the IC), Got some 3" length x 2.6" OD with a 0.8" OD internal hole aquarium sponge filter that I stuffed inside the pvc pipe and then ran some zip ties through to keep them in place. and then I placed a 6.5" KN cone filter over the exposed end of the PVC to clean up the appearance and keep debris/water etc... off of it.

Now I honestly forget it even has a BOV. Probably 80% quieter vs without. Before it was so noisy and annoying in typical city driving, sounded like a jet 24/7.

I got some pictures up on the G forums someplace.

redondoaveb

Picture of the silencer I had on my bov

Attached Images

11192021185728.jpg (583.1 KB, 112 views)

__________________
Fast Intentions "Stage Seb" twin turbo #098- Specialty Z/Tial-Xonarotor/CJM/Ecutek/HKS/KW/SPL/Hotchkis/Rohana/Toyo
750whp/700ft.lbs