I heard it pop and then dump some smoke at the last shift point. I don't know if you were using flat foot shifting, hit the rev limiter, or what happened. That appears to be when the damage was done. I suspect broken ring or ring land.

Broken ring or land. If the cylinder didn't score. You got lucky.

I was using flat foot shifting and missed a gear. But it was smoking before that as well. Maybe that finished it off. :wtf2:

Not sure.....

I am starting to get skeptical of flat foot shifting and bouncing the rev limiter in general. I am thinking that is where my issue came up this weekend. I had not problems until running it hard this weekend. It seemed like i was on the rev limiter a lot trying to flat foot shift it and doing my burnouts pedal to the floor.

Well if it did..... What are my options? bore, sleeve, or new block? or can you not bore these engines?

I haven't started looking into it yet. But will be starting this week.

I think the answer is "it depends". Do you want to reliably run 14 psi, or do you want to bump that up to 18-20 psi?

I think a light engine build involves new bearings, rods, 0.020" oversize pistons with lower compression. Most weak points should be tackled for a reliable 14 psi.

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If I have to rebuild this motor I want the ability to make it to 850-1000 HP. So what ever build get me there. I told my everyone that if I blew this motor....I wanted to hit 1,000 HP.

I will have to pay off what ever motor build we do before stretching my turbo set up to make 1,000 HP. But I want the ability to push the engine that hard in the future.

I don't mind spending the money, I just want it done right.

What are the common thoughts on this?
https://www.importpartspro.com/stage...initi-g37.html
I would be looking at rougly $5,000 worth of parts for this build. Plus machine shop work

Build a motor or buy a built motor? I have the ability to build a motor but not sure I have the shops around here to do the machine work and thinks that I do not have the tools for.

Going to need some advise and thoughts on this.

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Well, you are in a pickle. You don't have enough turbo or fuel for 1000hp. You may be able to get to around 700-750hp with what you have. You will need more fuel. IPP doesn't have the best reputation. Whatever way you go you will be in a 8-12 month wait on a built motor.

I look at your selection. Very few people drop the compression to 9.5:1. You loose too much VE. Most folks go 11:1 or 10.5:1 compression. You would also need to look at going with a closed deck block if you want greater than 800hp. I would also suggest a suckerpunch oil pump upgrade or the like.

I know I don't have the turbo set up now, that's why I said I would get to that after the engine build.

I just want the engine internals to be able to handle it when im ready.

Is anyone selling the closed deck blocks anymore? I cant seem to find anyone.

A huge no no On boosted cars if you’re not on a stand-alone

According to my tuner (Moncef @ Admin Tuning) flat foot shifting was enabled thru ECUTEK and I was fine for pedal to the floor burnouts.

I have my doubts on all of that....

Making a 1000hp wheel? You run into head gasket issues and your ecu is will be close to maxing out. Like spooler said if you go to a reputable shop you will be on a long waiting list, just the way to cookie crumbles. I would suggest spec’n out a set of custom pistons and rods. I’ve seen a lot of blown motors with people and companies trying to build high HP z’s only a few have succeeded

That was my burnout before that last race

So I might have to go the 800 HP max route for now. I am not going to wait a year. lol

I need to fix up this engine and maybe start a build separate for the 1,000 HP goal. So I guess I will be looking to max this BP kit out for now about 18-20 PSI and make as much HP as I can.

What are you guys' thought on build for that goal?
E85
18-20 PSI
BP kit
700-800 HP

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