Dipping a toe in the rabbit hole...

sirnixalot

While I agree with you Jinxx, for what he wants the centrifugal is his best bet. The linear power delivery will be more predictable when his wife drives it.

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2010 Sport - LS3 swap loading
2012 Frontier - BTWTuning VK56DE swap

Jinxx

Agreed

MZ DAIZY

It’s not number one on the list, but happy wife, happy life and all that...

jchammond

Sounds like you’re in need of a Turnkey job....Spooler mentioned SOHO, as he has a nice single turbo kit; unsure total cost or installation time & Z1 could install & tune whatever you wanted.
Heck- you can tune in a 50-100 NOS shot; for a quick blast every now & again

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MazWorx built long block | FI-TT-100 Stage 2.75 | IPT built 7A/T

http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...s-musings.html

TopgunZ

That is not true. I have had both on my car. When a turbo doesn't hit till 3200 rpms there is definitely an on or off feel..100%. When I would shift there was definitely lag in my response with my turbo.

With a Supercharger there is literally zero difference in 2500rpm to 3500rpm as far as a "surge" on power. It's perfectly linear all the way to redline. It just keeps building boost gradually instead of it hitting all at once like turbos.

Turbo - max boost at 3200rpm
Centri SC - max boost at 7500rpm

Explain how a turbo isn't on or off?

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ROTREX SUPERCHARGER TUNER KITS - $6799/ CUSTOM STILLEN AIR TO AIR KITS -$2100/ 700+ WHP!! WWW.TOPGUNSPEEDWORKS.COM

redondoaveb

Supercharger example:

Attached Images

Screenshot_20190712-165057.jpg (193.6 KB, 28 views)

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Fast Intentions "Stage Seb" twin turbo #098- Specialty Z/Tial-Xonarotor/CJM/Ecutek/HKS/KW/SPL/Hotchkis/Rohana/Toyo
750whp/700ft.lbs

Jinxx

Maybe my wording is in accurate ....but at 2500 rpm on a supercharger there virtually no boost ... it does build evenly through out the rpm range which is smooth and strong and yes 3200 rpm on a turbo is when boost comes on ....but ... it you are running the car hard are you really under 3200 rpms when you shift ..no you’re not so where is the lag when you shift above 3200 rpm it’s just a increase in boost/power which is more aggressive ....but I would look more closely at a supercharger boost output at 2500 rpm and compare that to the stock engine out put ..very little if any difference ...in a larger v8 motor yes there would be more of a noticeable increase at a lower rpm.....and when I referred to having both I wasn’t meaning at different times on my car I had two cars with both at the same time and believe me I compared them closely back to back to decide on which to keep ...comparing my supercharger dyno 3k rpm was only 1lb of boost sooo at 2500 rpm more or less nothing

I guess more accurate way of putting it would be in a supercharger you can floor it and have a consistent increase of boost .....but in a turbo if you floor it the boost increase can be instant to max ...hence the sudden “on” feeling ..I have gotten use to controlling it with the pedal ....and for his needs the supercharger would fit him better

Spooler

I really suggest you get that narly, fungus nailed big toe out the rabbit hole. Sometimes it is just no fun at all.

MZ DAIZY

I’ve been following your build.

jchammond

Remember that running corn (ethanol), you will burn approximately 30% more fuel...resulting in suck mpg...but the ethanol also keeps cylinder temperatures lower than gasoline does.
Hit Jon up @Z1...he’s in your neck of the woods
You can install their 400hp upgrade & then add JW2 exhaust cams & then upgrade fuel system for e85....could end up with some pretty good whp numbers & still be N/A

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MazWorx built long block | FI-TT-100 Stage 2.75 | IPT built 7A/T

http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...s-musings.html

TopgunZ

I believe you stated one thing in your first post, then contradicted it in your second.

You said there is no surge initially, now said it does.

I was the one who said I had both kits.

At any rate, I agree with your second post.

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ROTREX SUPERCHARGER TUNER KITS - $6799/ CUSTOM STILLEN AIR TO AIR KITS -$2100/ 700+ WHP!! WWW.TOPGUNSPEEDWORKS.COM

Jinxx

I never said there wasn’t a surge .. I was referring to the “lag” .. boost is more aggressive on the turbo .. I don’t consider it a lag and hit feel on the Z cars with newer kits . That was the intent I was getting to ... and definitely no lag when shifting

TBatt

I've been running the Stillen/TopZ system for several years now and about 8K miles problem free. Here is what I have observed:

My SC is setup with the 9psi pulley on the SC. At ~3000 rpm the SC is just starting to output more air than the engine is taking in. I can tell because the boost gauge is showing zero pressure and the blow off valve is starting to open and hiss. This equates to about 80mph steady cruise. So, if you have a MT6 you will need to down shift to third if you want maximum boost or fourth gear if you want to be easy on the tranny syncros. When the engine hits red line (7500) it will be making max boost and power. The engine will drop rpm by about 1500rpm when you grab the next higher gear. Now you are down from max power but at the power levels we are at you get to the next gear pretty fast.

Turbos cars need load in order to produce boost. So at the 3000 rpm range the turbos will spool up and provide lots of torque without down shifting. This could be very damaging to your engine as we all know these engines do not hold up well when producing a lot of torque. A down shift with the turbo car is needed as well to get the most power and in this case ease the load on the engine. Now here is where a big difference occurs between SC and turbo cars. During a shift, the SC and boost is exactly where the rpm is. No lag, it is directly driven by the engine. Turbos, on the other hand, will actually spool down during a shift and have to accelerate back up. That is why most guys use a automatic tranny for drag racing. Depending on the turbo setup, this can cause some on and off power delivery.

Cars that have sophisticated turbo systems (Porsche, GTR) get around some of this with careful design and darn good engineering. They can feel like a big ol' V8 on the low end and they have control to not over torque if you don't downshift.

Anyways, enough of my two cents worth. I love SC and if you drive "normal" the car drives perfectly normal and if you put your foot in it it responds like a stock car until the rpms get up. No sudden surprises with unexpected boost. Safe.

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RJM pedal, Hotchkis Sway Bars, FI TDX, FOG Light, Z1 Slotted Drilled rotors, Stillen SC, Quaife ATB, Z1 Oil cooler, AEM Gauge Set, Galeforce gauge mount, Avant Garde M590 Hypersilver w/RE-11, TopgunZ A2A kit., ECUtek tuned by Seb: ROLL TIDE!

MZ DAIZY

I’m up to page 75 of Aaron’s “topguns” a2a thread. I’m literally bleary eyed...

I’m hoping my install goes smoother than yours. You’re the guy with the J pipe that wouldn’t fit right?

TBatt

Yes, my install was the first as a clean install. All of the others up to that point were replacing the water system with the A2A. Also, Aaron was just getting into production and that always has some teething pains. At the beginning, his kit included a 45° pipe that would work but the clocking on the SC volute had to be perfect. He has since then gone to a 60° that is much more forgiving.

He has come a long way from where he started! My input, as well as others that were helping him develop the kit, were paving the way for you. We had some initial issues but all of them have been resolved.

You just can't imagine what his kit does for the Z. Perfectly stock driving experience until you get on it and then good luck trying to get the rear tires to hook up. My rear tires will spin at 80mph with WOT and I'm running 305s.

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RJM pedal, Hotchkis Sway Bars, FI TDX, FOG Light, Z1 Slotted Drilled rotors, Stillen SC, Quaife ATB, Z1 Oil cooler, AEM Gauge Set, Galeforce gauge mount, Avant Garde M590 Hypersilver w/RE-11, TopgunZ A2A kit., ECUtek tuned by Seb: ROLL TIDE!