A few issues with my Stillen supercharger

ByThaBay

This kit is my specialty. I can get you rolling and bring back all your low end power ASAP. Send me a pm.

TBatt

They look very similar but the wire gauge is larger for the gen 2 cables. The problem with the earlier ones was an intermittent connection. Very hard to test with a multi-meter.

One other thing, the SC system just starts making boost at around 3K rpm, so below that it is a NA engine.

You need to let the engine warm up before you flog it. The oil will be thick and the oil pressure will be extremely high if you rev it hard while cool. I always get the oil temp up to at least 140 before I start to have some fun. Your engine will thank you.

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RJM pedal, Hotchkis Sway Bars, FI TDX, FOG Light, Z1 Slotted Drilled rotors, Stillen SC, Quaife ATB, Z1 Oil cooler, AEM Gauge Set, Galeforce gauge mount, Avant Garde M590 Hypersilver w/RE-11, TopgunZ A2A kit., ECUtek tuned by Seb: ROLL TIDE!

Bikeracer1098

Comming from a background of racing Bikes I have OCD with warning up engines properly.

My std 2018 370 Nismo feels far more torquy between 2000-3000RPM than my 2016 Supercharged Nismo.

Recently had the car stutter at around 2200RPM during the first 4 miles or so of a journey also stalled twice but hasn’t done so since. On startup the revs have also bounced up to around 2300RPM a few times.

Will post up a video showing the car accelerating on a hot engine from 2000-7000RPM. Car seems to accelerate slower between 2200-3700RPM as if it’s restricted.

Is this the symptoms of faulty extension MAF cables?

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TopgunZ

Looks like that 4th pin down is tweaked out.

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turtle64b

I agree, but they could have had the grommet a little high on the wire when they pinned it and didn't push it down enough. If you can, do a resistance check to ensure that there isn't a fault in the cable. You can use something like a staple to stick in the slot to put the multimeter on if you don't have small enough leads.