66 Chevelle.... :yum::yum:

Though I still reallyreallyreally want a 67. :yum::yum:

Speaking of cars for sale, my dad has a couple; a 21 T roadster truck and a 23 T 5 passenger roadster for sale. The 23 needs a front wheel & bearing, it's got wooden wheels and the hub failed. He'll go $7500 on the truck, and maybe $4k on the 5 passenger. I think the 5 passenger is a 23, I'll have to double check.

I still miss my ‘70 SS clone. Never should have sold it, or my k5. :shakes head:

The two (out of top three) that got away. :(.

Spooler will calm down, just give him some extra (cyber) room to take it all in.

Maiden voyage and it had go up against some seasoned monster, it did quite alright in the grand scheme.

Good luck Spooler.

Time heals all wounds .

With that being said a 370z is at a disadvantage with the transmission and the turbo kits that are available. Even the best TT kit we have Fast Intentions doesn't even come close to what GTR's have available. The use of compact compressor housing will have its limits the kit uses 3 inch inlets and 2 inch outlets. This will limit total power output they use bigger inlets bigger down pipes etc once the want to get well into the triple digits.


Spooler was loan wolf out there fighting monsters

Some custom 3.5" tubing to the inlets should help a bit. Custom 2.5" outlets just to get from the turbo the front of the motor and then go up. Custom set of hybrid turbos made up to fit the FI manifolds. Lately the GTR community is popularly using the stock turbos as a starting point for all the way up to 1100-1200whp... for example: https://www.boostlogic.com/product/1050x-turbo-kit/

Given, they are really only carrying over the manifold with turbine housing. You can see where they weld to the turbine housing area a bit to get an entirely other turbo to bolt up. No doubt that inside the housing is machined out to fit a larger wheel.

Id say that starting with the FI turbo kit has a leg up on starting with the tiny stock GTR manifolds and turbine housings. I think those BL turbos making 1200 linked above are based on the newer Garrett G-Series, but I havent investigated it

So you taking pre orders?

The boost logic kit is one of the many kits that the GTR's have and that gives you the option of bigger intakes and intercooler piping and its cheaper than the Fast Intentions TT kit by a good bit. Also that's like entry level kit for these those cars.

I dont build turbos, but I can give you a list of companies that do!

It should be cheaper! It doesnt come with much. FI is an entire turbo system start to finish. Costs for full turbo kits for the GTR dwarf 370z turbo kits.

The BL1050X I linked is $10,000 for 2 turbos stuffed into the stock turbine housings, and just a little bit of pipe (Im not complaining, I am probably going to buy that exact kit this winter). Since the FI manifolds are flanged and you can replace the turbine housing rather than being forced to remachine the awkward stock GTR manifolds, I think you could come in much under the 10K to upgrade the turbos to support the same amount of power.

Mark at Mazworx is a standup guy. He wants some testing done and the engine back. I am just tired and don't want to deal with it right now.

Awesome that's great news

If you need and joby to come over and take the motor out???? I’m going to be a friend.You’ve come to far to be tired. If he wants it back for testing let’s go. We can get it out in a day. I can take it back with me.

Not messing with it right now. I just want to drive around and enjoy it for a while on low boost.

So you put together a kit with the turbos? Yes?

I dont have the means to for the time being. What I was trying to say was that I think it shouldn't be too difficult to change the turbos on the FI kit to support higher numbers than they offer in off-the-shelf kits.

Well guys, I guess it is time I realize I have a lot more influence in our community than I thought. Maybe it is time to consider some sponsorships. There are only a handful of us that go out and use our cars racing. Track car, 1/2 mile racing, 1/3 mile roll racing, etc.

Hi. I do the roll racing. Willing to share info of what I've been doing.

I run the car at full retard and the heads still haven't lifted or engine failed on me.

Come on Air Force.

Husam is selling his dct

Dude, I got a motor issue. Do you really think I am going to spend money on a DCT right now?

:icon14:

I txt'd Tay for details but he didn't spill the beans haha. Rightfully so though.

:iagree:

Any coolant in the oil?

Noop, car runs just fine. Can you find me a what I need to add a pressure sensor to a coolant line? I know you are good on Pegasus.

I think I figured out what happened. I need to order a few parts. Time to come out of retirement.

Here's a SpeedHut pressure gauge. 0 to 150 psi. You can tap it in the upper radiator hose, the heater hose by the battery, or into a drain plug in the block.

https://www.speedhut.com/gauge/GR-PR...si-(w--warning)

Upper radiator hose adapter. This is what I have right now. You will only get a reading when the thermostat opens. I'm switching to the heater hose adapter.

https://www.z1motorsports.com/z1-pro...9192b63427add3

Heater hose adapter.

https://www.z1motorsports.com/z1-pro...undledTogether

Here is a long from Spoolers run the coolant spike after the run was over. Coolant is on top IAT in middle and throttle position on bottom Attachment 148381

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk

Looks like the coolant topped out at 262F. That was right after the run and coasting down. You have a log of the rpms to go along with these logs?

From what I learned on the track. I keep my coolant level and power steering fluid level at the add marks to keep from boiling out of the reservoir. When fluid gets hot it expanses and has to go somewhere.

I need it for pressure so the upper radiator hose should be fine. I just ordered a coolant pressure gauge.

I was on a banked track. If i pushed any coolant to the reservoir it went right out the overflow onto the ground while I was banked. That is what it did. I created an air pocket. The SOHO catch can/coolant reservoir is not that big. It is 1/4 of the size of the stock one from 09 to 11. In 2012, Nissan went to a recirulating pressurized overflow. The question is Why? Did I just find out why?

When I get the coolant pressure gauge on there I will know more.

Can't you run a pressure test?

The coolant topped out at 286 to be exact started at 205. IAT peaks at 158 started at 80

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk

It runs and drives just fine. No issues on 17psi of boost.

But if you're pushing coolant, a pressure test will tell you where it's coming from unless you're positive it was just the overflow.

That I am positive of.

So are you thinking the motor isn't hurt?

I got a good chance it is not hurt. If so, I will be luckiest dude around. I have to go through a bunch of testing to figure it out.

If it was just puking coolant out of the overflow, what makes you think it could possibly be hurt?

I ran it hot. I am trying to figure out exactly why it puked coolant out the reservoir. Was it because I was on a banked track and all the fluid was on the side of the coolant reservoir that had the overflow tube? Whatever coolant expanded into the tank was lost on the banked track? It is possible. If so, I will need to go back to the 2012 and newer Nissan coolant tank. That means I have to redo my catch can setup also which is going to suck but it is way better than yanking a motor, etc.