[Build Thread] -- Journey to 700+ WHP [Supercharger]

[overtureZ]

Originally Posted by TopgunZ

I would go with something bigger than a 340 for e85. I maxed mine out at 525.

oh man

[TopgunZ]

Why would the manifold matter in what you are feeding it? You could feed any turbo, any supercharger into the stillen or stock manifold. Same thing goes for the piping more or less. The only thing that matters is the mounting bracket.

[cupcakez]

Originally Posted by TopgunZ

Why would the manifold matter in what you are feeding it? You could feed any turbo, any supercharger into the stillen or stock manifold. Same thing goes for the piping more or less. The only thing that matters is the mounting bracket.

Ohhhh gotcha. Okay. Didn't know that -- haha still new to learning all about cars
Well I don't really like the Stillen Manifold anyway because of how annoying the bolts are to tighten underneath it. I would swap it out with a different manifold that is a bit easier to put on and take off~
I was thinking of investing into the GTR-Style 3D print manifold that the other guy on here is making at the moment, since it looks nice as well, that or get pretty much any other upper manifold x.X

[redondoaveb]

Originally Posted by cupcakez

Ohhhh gotcha. Okay. Didn't know that -- haha still new to learning all about cars
Well I don't really like the Stillen Manifold anyway because of how annoying the bolts are to tighten underneath it. I would swap it out with a different manifold that is a bit easier to put on and take off~
I was thinking of investing into the GTR-Style 3D print manifold that the other guy on here is making at the moment, since it looks nice as well, that or get pretty much any other upper manifold x.X

Before you go spending money on a different intake manifold you need to figure out how you're going to run the intake pipe on the drivers side. The placement of the sc doesn't leave any room. If there was room, the stillen manifold wouldn't be needed, everyone would run the stock intake manifold.

[cupcakez]

Originally Posted by redondoaveb

Before you go spending money on a different intake manifold you need to figure out how you're going to run the intake pipe on the drivers side. The placement of the sc doesn't leave any room. If there was room, the stillen manifold wouldn't be needed, everyone would run the stock intake manifold.

True that. I got to see how to make the piping fit :/ Hmm I guess I will ask my local aftermarket shop to see if they can figure out or find the proper piping pieces for the stillen manifold / other manifold if easier for them.
Thank you

[redondoaveb]

Originally Posted by cupcakez

True that. I got to see how to make the piping fit :/ Hmm I guess I will ask my local aftermarket shop to see if they can figure out or find the proper piping pieces for the stillen manifold / other manifold if easier for them.
Thank you

Got any pictures of how they got the piping to work? I'd love to see the routing.

[Quicksilvers]

Originally Posted by cupcakez

True that. I got to see how to make the piping fit :/ Hmm I guess I will ask my local aftermarket shop to see if they can figure out or find the proper piping pieces for the stillen manifold / other manifold if easier for them.
Thank you

Can you post some pics if possible?

[cupcakez]

Thank you Ben. I appreciate your responses
It helps a lot and helps me make my future decisions on what I will do with my vehicle.
Im really glad to hear that there is clearance in our 370 vehicles, and to hear that the v7 head units both fit on the existing stillen bracket that initially came with the v3 head unit.
I cant wait to hear the final results of what was used and what needed to be used / deleted / added / etc.

The piping for it -- I would assume that it just needs to be a little bigger than the previous piping, since the material can still be the same.

Niceee, Im glad to learn a lot

[cupcakez]

*Update*!!!

So my tuner helped me find out some important information regarding 1700x ID and 1300x ID [vs] 1050x ID. He found out that for my current applications -- because I am not running serious power with the current mods I am about to put into my vehicle, it is best I have 1050x ID's rather than 1300x ID or the 1700x ID.

The reason for this is because it is the physical limitation of the injectors.
The minimum amount of fuel will release too much for what my applications are at the moment even at the smallest pulses. ECUtek tuning cannot compensate and control it in this case, and so it is best I go for the 1050x ID's for now.
Once I upgrade to serious power, then it will be appropriate for me to purchase 1300s / 1700s and I can sell the 1050x ID's for cheap to someone else who may need them! Yay!

I also found out I won't be needing an oil cooler just yet, until I start seeing constant temperatures above 220+ (F).

As for a Transmission cooler, I will be putting that to the side as well because I will be replacing the entire transmission with a new custom built one from Level 10 Transmissions sometime next year.

For now I will be running 91 Octane in the beginning when my car is first repaired / upgraded hopefully in late April / Early May!

After it runs smoothly, I will upgrade the fuel system with the CJM S1-SE fuel return system in conjunction with a twin fuel pump, two hydramats, and twin walbro 450 setup.
My tuner said having two fuel pumps will definitely run the fuel a lot hotter which could be a serious issue, so I will have to find some way to keep it cool when running the twin fuel pump module from CJM -- If anyone has any ideas please let me know

Also, my tuner also said the A2A kit will lose some boost pressure being the A2A kit that it is, but that's okay as long as I can run the car safely while still pushing it the furthest it can go,

I spoke to Kyle from IPP regarding upgrading the rev limiter and how to do so with the stage 4, 11.0:1 Compression Ratio engine that I have being built. He suggested I get the ATI stock size pulley if I wanted to do so, and that's what I did -- purchased that pulley yesterday night.

I also found out that the engine harmonics will remain similar to the original stock engine -- so the knock sensitivity does not need to be recalibrated. And I know that our stock 370z engines use I beam rods which is good for higher RPMs, whereas Kyle from IPP uses H beam rods -- so I asked him if it would affect the rev limiter at all and if I should lower it or if it was safe to keep it the same. He said it could stay the same, so that's good.

Hopefully this information is able to help others out there who may be wondering similar / same things either now or in the future!

Thank you for reading!

[G3RSTY7]

Originally Posted by cupcakez

*Update*!!!

So my tuner helped me find out some important information regarding 1700x ID and 1300x ID [vs] 1050x ID. He found out that for my current applications -- because I am not running serious power with the current mods I am about to put into my vehicle, it is best I have 1050x ID's rather than 1300x ID or the 1700x ID.

The reason for this is because it is the physical limitation of the injectors.
The minimum amount of fuel will release too much for what my applications are at the moment even at the smallest pulses. ECUtek tuning cannot compensate and control it in this case, and so it is best I go for the 1050x ID's for now.
Once I upgrade to serious power, then it will be appropriate for me to purchase 1300s / 1700s and I can sell the 1050x ID's for cheap to someone else who may need them! Yay!

I also found out I won't be needing an oil cooler just yet, until I start seeing constant temperatures above 220+ (F).

As for a Transmission cooler, I will be putting that to the side as well because I will be replacing the entire transmission with a new custom built one from Level 10 Transmissions sometime next year.

For now I will be running 91 Octane in the beginning when my car is first repaired / upgraded hopefully in late April / Early May!

After it runs smoothly, I will upgrade the fuel system with the CJM S1-SE fuel return system in conjunction with a twin fuel pump, two hydramats, and twin walbro 450 setup.
My tuner said having two fuel pumps will definitely run the fuel a lot hotter which could be a serious issue, so I will have to find some way to keep it cool when running the twin fuel pump module from CJM -- If anyone has any ideas please let me know

Also, my tuner also said the A2A kit will lose some boost pressure being the A2A kit that it is, but that's okay as long as I can run the car safely while still pushing it the furthest it can go,

I spoke to Kyle from IPP regarding upgrading the rev limiter and how to do so with the stage 4, 11.0:1 Compression Ratio engine that I have being built. He suggested I get the ATI stock size pulley if I wanted to do so, and that's what I did -- purchased that pulley yesterday night.

I also found out that the engine harmonics will remain similar to the original stock engine -- so the knock sensitivity does not need to be recalibrated. And I know that our stock 370z engines use I beam rods which is good for higher RPMs, whereas Kyle from IPP uses H beam rods -- so I asked him if it would affect the rev limiter at all and if I should lower it or if it was safe to keep it the same. He said it could stay the same, so that's good.

Hopefully this information is able to help others out there who may be wondering similar / same things either now or in the future!

Thank you for reading!

Well I am interested how the 11.0 CR goes with the boosted application. I like the idea but am glad you will be leading the example. You mention going RFS with twin pumps etc, but needing smaller injectors because you will be going overkill at the moment? So you will be starting with single pump, returnless fuel system on 1050x and then will switch to twin pump RFS and bigger injectors later on?

[cupcakez]

Originally Posted by G3RSTY7

Well I am interested how the 11.0 CR goes with the boosted application. I like the idea but am glad you will be leading the example. You mention going RFS with twin pumps etc, but needing smaller injectors because you will be going overkill at the moment? So you will be starting with single pump, returnless fuel system on 1050x and then will switch to twin pump RFS and bigger injectors later on?

That's correct.
My tuner recommends that I start off small and then upgrade as each step we take is proven safe & reliable in terms of drive-ability.

I will be starting with the single stock modified stillen supercharger kit pump, returnless fuel system on 1050x which my tuner said would be perfectly fine at the moment.
I will then switch to the twin pump module from CJM and get bigger injectors once I upgrade the supercharger headunit from 928 or Vortech -- since I have triple pulleys sitting in my room waiting and itching to be replaced to upgrade the spinning efficiency -- as this will also increase said boost.

I will then change to flex fuel at the same time getting the CJM S1-SE and probably a 34 row oil cooler to keep temperatures down since I will be running the twin pump with twin walbro 450s.

I will definitely be constantly updating the OP so people can follow the timeline, so pay close attention It is slowly adding things each time I do something such as order a part, receive a part, install a part, etc.

Will include all the ups and downs of this journey leaving nothing out! No filters xD

[cupcakez]

*UPDATE*
I called Vortech Engineering today and asked about the impeller / ceramic bearing upgrade that 928Motorsports provides. Vortech said the cost to upgrade the SCi unit to the SC unit is $306. All they do is replace it with an upgraded impeller. I asked about the ceramic bearing that 928 gives and if Vortech does the same, and they said no.
Then I asked if it had any advantages they know of, and he said no -- at least not any solid data to prove the bearings helped it perform better.

Vortech also said that 928 is not even licensed to perform upgrades on Vortech units, and that they just made their own parts and deemed it so.
Apparently they do not know how to put back the supercharger together properly or take it apart, and if it is done correctly -- then it is done more incorrectly than correctly.
As a result of this, Vortech is receiving "quite a lot" of the 928Motorports blower upgrades for reparations because they break. And they break simply because it is not put back together properly and they do not know what they are doing more than they do know what they are doing.

Guy at Vortech also said he recommends that people do not send it into 928 for the super-vortech premium package upgrade.

I wanted to share this information with the community for anyone thinking of sending it to 928 or not.
If so, just send it into Vortech since they are the ones that built the units in the first place so they should know how to upgrade it properly as well.

Saved me about $1,000 USD, because I was planning to pay a rush order fee, rush shipping, and the whopping $1236 for the premium package upgrade from 928.
Now that I know I only need to spend $306...I can spend that money I was GOING to spend on something else! LOL Such as maybe a CJM S1-SE return fuel system xD

PS -- Also, I live in CA and Vortech HQ is also located in Southern California (I'm in Northern).
I feel a lot more at ease and safe sending it to Vortech HQ rather than 928...which is across the country T_T

[husam2012]

Since you are located in California, are you going to be tuned by SpecialtyZ? If not, I definitely recommend it.

Also, it seems like your tuner might not know much about 370Zs... An oil cooler is a must for a stock car that is driven hard as oil temps reach 250-280 easily in the summer. Add 50% more power and you have a vehicle going into limp mode within a few power pulls.

About Level 10, I would never send my vehicle there after all the failure's I've seen. You have Fast Intentions located in your state.. Why go farther?

For your transmission, a cooler is pretty much mandatory when you boost the car. Heck, some of these transmissions fail with full bolt ons and hard driving. (lots of heat)

[cupcakez]

Well, I've never driven my car in the summer, so it's not my tuner's fault that I declined the Oil Cooler. He /did/ recommend that I get an oil cooler as an absolute necessary thing, but I told him my car is driving 180 - 220 the entire time I've driven it so far.

Then again, I haven't driven it in the summer. I said if I ever see constant 220+ then I will get an oil cooler asap, but as of right now, I'm okay.

Why not send it to FI? Because I don't think that they do Automatic Transmission upgrades..?
A big part of my build is basing it off of Evan's (StillenZ84 user on here) build.
He got the level 10 transmission in his car, and he also drives 7 AT just like I do.
So that is also another reason why I decided to base my build off of his.

Unless FI does Automatic Transmission upgrades for 370zs? I don't know about it haha.

I'm getting my car tuned by someone else. I trust him and although I know seb is the man to go to for 370z tunes, I want to give this person I have been talking to for a while now a try.

I don't doubt his work at all, I know it is superb, but that does not mean I can't find a close or equally close tuner xD Plus the tuner I am talking to is close to me which helps!

I'm also not going to send my vehicle to Level10, I will buy their transmission package and they will send it to my aftermarket mechanic shop I am currently working with to install it.

[husam2012]

Originally Posted by cupcakez

Well, I've never driven my car in the summer, so it's not my tuner's fault that I declined the Oil Cooler. He /did/ recommend that I get an oil cooler as an absolute necessary thing, but I told him my car is driving 180 - 220 the entire time I've driven it so far.

Then again, I haven't driven it in the summer. I said if I ever see constant 220+ then I will get an oil cooler asap, but as of right now, I'm okay.

Why not send it to FI? Because I don't think that they do Automatic Transmission upgrades..?
A big part of my build is basing it off of Evan's (StillenZ84 user on here) build.
He got the level 10 transmission in his car, and he also drives 7 AT just like I do.
So that is also another reason why I decided to base my build off of his.

Unless FI does Automatic Transmission upgrades for 370zs? I don't know about it haha.

I'm getting my car tuned by someone else. I trust him and although I know seb is the man to go to for 370z tunes, I want to give this person I have been talking to for a while now a try.

I don't doubt his work at all, I know it is superb, but that does not mean I can't find a close or equally close tuner xD Plus the tuner I am talking to is close to me which helps!

I'm also not going to send my vehicle to Level10, I will buy their transmission package and they will send it to my aftermarket mechanic shop I am currently working with to install it.

Just trying to help you out from as I've learned from my mistakes and few friend's mistakes on their 370Z builds.

I also wanted to give a chance to this new tuner in my area only to be out of $1000 and having a shitty tune that might of ultimately killed my engine.

My friend had his Level 10 transmission fail at just over 500whp and less than a month of driving.. They also recommended no transmission cooler as their trans is "bulletproof" and here he is without a driving car.

Fast intentions does build transmissions and their reputation proceeds them.
"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L3Zqz_3LPpg"

I've learned that cutting corners will cost you way more in the long run. Just do it right the first time with the right shop and you will be better off in the long run