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The honest truth is, when you force induct a car that wasn't engineered for this application, there is no true "reliable." You take a huge risk no matter what. I have heard it said many times - "Fast, cheap and reliable; you can only have two." I don't really believe you can have cheap and reliable, though. |
Hmmm...hopefully there can at least be a ballpark figure, then. Another question I had was how much boost can one run on an engine with 11 to 1 comp ratio on 91 octane pump gas before detonation becomes a problem? How much more can you run on 93 octane pump gas?
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So the guy that just wants a mild HP upgrade and never wants to build the motor for high horse power just ends up with a blower that is out of the efficiency range? Why not offer another blower option? Makes more sense to me. |
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Those are all good thoughts/questions, but I doubt we will really have an answer until enought people take that plunge. I know I will at a point, but I am thinking that it may be a prerequisite to build for "safety" sake. As far as my budget goes, I would have to safe some more pennies to make that happen. This discussion has taken a turn for the better and hopefully those questions will be answered in time.
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Im pretty sure this blower is already in its efficiency zone even with the Stillen CARB kit. Remember guys that the CARB kit is already up 140whp up on their baseline (420-280=140whp) per Stillen's preliminary dyno numbers. Its not like they aren't making good use of the blower, its just that it has a good bit more room to stretch out it's legs after that. |
honsetly the kit is going to be about damn near maxed when you buy it from either company. a general rule of thumb for car with a drivetrain as sturdy as ours is to limit it by the psi no the horsepower. an 8 psi turbo kit and an 8psi supercharger kit place equal strain on the block. superchargers make less power because it requires hp to turn the supercharger either way 8psi of air with the same ignition advance is going to generate the same cylinder pressures. right now the highest i would take the stock motor is in the 7-10 range depending on how ballsy you are.
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As far as 91 vs 93, there will be a significant difference in the ability to quell detonation. But, boost isn't the main factor when trying to keep detonation from being an issue...timing is more important. Also, keep in mind that more boost does not always equate more power. It depends on the efficiency range of the compressor used and what the IATs might be. IATs are very important in useful power and keeping detonation at bay. Most times, more boost = higher IATs. |
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Anyone know what the max psi is for that blower? |
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^ well then, we can blow up our motor twice over with it then lol.
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edit: first time I've used the feature, this thread's size just got halved, rofl. |
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Stillen: Question.
Are the tunes for 91oct? Are we going to have an option for 93oct for those of us who get decent gasoline? |
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Figuring out the proper efficiency "range" of a Vortech supercharger takes a few things:
1) Volume of air you're trying to move 2) RPM that you're spinning the supercharger 3) Size of the engine you're trying to feed. Basically, there might be a "sweet spot" of efficiency on the compressor map for the 370Z but it's going to be very different for an engine like a Charger SRT-8 however you can still use the same blower for each application. One of the great things about the Vortech V3 supercharger is that it is a very efficient blower at over 70% efficiency. |
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Our biggest issue is that there is nowhere for us to get 93 octane fuel. We were talking yesterday about possible locations and the closest place we can think of is Oklahoma...We're currently looking into it though. |
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I forgot to add this in my last post.
This chart shows some different forced induction systems on the VQ35 engines. You can see how the STILLEN roots blower was the best down low, but at high RPM was lacking. |
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I don't think this has been asked - what PSI is that dyno at?
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Kyle - As far as 93 octane goes, why not just mix your 91 octane with 100 octane unleaded? There is a calculable ratio for which you can get 93 from this mixture. I believe 3 gallons of 100 octane added to 10 gallons of 91 will net a 93.1 octane fuel. :) There, I just saved you from having to import fuel from Oklahoma. *lol* |
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Alrighty...early March is winding down. On what day will you be dropping the Press Release? Seems like a fair question :excited:
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But, if we are preparing a tune on our car using a 91 mix with 100 octane and say we don't get it 100% right and we end up with say 95 octane fuel...Then we're sending out a tune to our customer's who are in states with 93 octane hoping that the fuel we had in our car was truly 93...when in fact it was 95 and therefore the tune is going to be too aggressive. is that a better explanation? Basically...it doesn't matter what fuel is in our car...we can tune for it...but to trust that the fuel that we're using is truly 93 octane and then to send that tune to a customer...THAT's what puts the customer's car in danger. Another wrench in the works is that California has oxygenated fuel which also sucks...We have really crappy fuel out here. |
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Edit - saw your addition. It's cool. Whatever you guys feel is best for your company. Truly was just trying to help you out. If it is really not an option for you guys, no worries. If you want to know more about it, here is a good fuel company created chart on mixing for different octanes. http://www.lansystem.com/jh/octane.jpg |
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To be perfectly honest...We don't like to take chances when it comes to some of the really important things like fuel, brakes, tires, roll cages, seat frames...Any time that something can fail in a catastrophic way, we like to take a lot of pre-cautions. For example, you should have seen all of the testing that went into the development of the CCM brakes for the GT-R. We tested out at El Toro air base for a couple of months with those things. We didn't want to put the CCM brakes in the hands of a customer only to find out that something might go wrong. The good thing...we found out that they are a PITA to bed properly. It literally took us two days at ridiculous speeds and temperatures to get them to properly bed in. So now, AP Racing puts them on a brake lathe before we send them out to a customer. We don't ask the customer's to bed them in because we don't think it's safe, or even possible to do it properly. |
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Thank you very much! |
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And I can certainly appreciate your desire to put out the best product available. I, as a consumer, expect that from all vendors. And if I thought, for a second, that there would be any issue with you mixing fuels to make a canned tune I would certainly never recommend such. Still, you should consider it an option. Certainly don't take my word for it being a viable option, but do contact fuel companies and get their take on it. You will be very surprised at what they say you can do. :) |
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looks like a basic 3:1 ratio 91 to 100
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So, i have some questions here for Kyle&Josh@Stillen, are you going to send out the S/C kits with uni-chip or control box just like you did the the old 350z S/C?
Or are you planning to use Osiris UpRev reflash and tune? Do you thing the UpRev is better than uni-chip for tuning? And what made you go with that route for the tuning? (uni-chip vs uprev tuning). |
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