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BP turbo build/advice

Originally Posted by jwick I assume that's a built block for a torque number that large. I'm not a fan of methanol. It's not that it doesn't work, it's just

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Old 04-15-2017, 11:27 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by jwick View Post
I assume that's a built block for a torque number that large.

I'm not a fan of methanol. It's not that it doesn't work, it's just another mechanical system that can malfunction and a tank that runs dry.
550 wheel horsepower, not 550ft-lbs torque lol. I'm using the Aquamist Methanol kit as a safety net more than anything. The Aquamist kit has been pretty good so far. I'm running a boost controller so it's going to be a mild tune around town then a more aggressive tune. I run a can of Torco octane booster on every fill up as well.
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Old 04-15-2017, 01:25 PM   #2 (permalink)
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550 wheel horsepower, not 550ft-lbs torque lol. I'm using the Aquamist Methanol kit as a safety net more than anything. The Aquamist kit has been pretty good so far. I'm running a boost controller so it's going to be a mild tune around town then a more aggressive tune. I run a can of Torco octane booster on every fill up as well.
Well after looking how they hooked up the Greddy boost controller, I see they didn't drill out the manifold and they did two tee's off the big line in the back of the manifold. I will fix it when i get the parts but I wanted to know if this would cause the issue i am seeing? the car is running great i just want to get the gauge up and running. Ill get a picture and post it up asap.
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Old 04-14-2017, 05:20 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Most all tunes for the highest boost settings are done at e70 because you seldom get anything better than e83. In AZ the best you can get is about e56 and Las Vegas is e70ish. You should get maps for various levels of ethanol. I have 4 of them.

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Old 04-15-2017, 07:42 AM   #4 (permalink)
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So I picked up the bat mobile and drove her 600 miles. Two things came up, first the AFR gauge wasn't working too well. AAM fixed that with putting in a new sensor, it looks like it was bent. The second thing was my boost gauge is saying I’m over boosting to like 20 and 30 pounds of boost.... the tuner Mike said it was closing when I let off the gas and causing a boost spike. The pressure came from the throttle shutting and really wasn’t there? I saw it happen on my gauge and it doesn’t seem like I’m hitting 30 PSI, but I have no way to tell. The only boos gauge I had was the Greddy Profec and it worked fine when I gave them the car. Another thing I noticed was the car never shows any vacuum? I am thinking it could be one of these things; boost gauge is broke; boost gauge hooked up/set-up wrong; it really is hitting that psi? Advice would be appreciated! Thanks guys!!
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Old 04-15-2017, 08:08 AM   #5 (permalink)
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So I picked up the bat mobile and drove her 600 miles. Two things came up, first the AFR gauge wasn't working too well. AAM fixed that with putting in a new sensor, it looks like it was bent. The second thing was my boost gauge is saying I’m over boosting to like 20 and 30 pounds of boost.... the tuner Mike said it was closing when I let off the gas and causing a boost spike. The pressure came from the throttle shutting and really wasn’t there? I saw it happen on my gauge and it doesn’t seem like I’m hitting 30 PSI, but I have no way to tell. The only boos gauge I had was the Greddy Profec and it worked fine when I gave them the car. Another thing I noticed was the car never shows any vacuum? I am thinking it could be one of these things; boost gauge is broke; boost gauge hooked up/set-up wrong; it really is hitting that psi? Advice would be appreciated! Thanks guys!!

With a new/built engine, you need find out what your vacuum is at idle, while the engine is hot. Based on this, you may need to change the BOV spring:

http://www.streettunedmotorsports.co...ring_chart.jpg


The BOV in the kit comes with an 11psi spring, since the vacuum falls in that range with the stock engine. A shop like AAM should know this.
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Old 04-15-2017, 02:19 PM   #6 (permalink)
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With a new/built engine, you need find out what your vacuum is at idle, while the engine is hot. Based on this, you may need to change the BOV spring:

http://www.streettunedmotorsports.co...ring_chart.jpg


The BOV in the kit comes with an 11psi spring, since the vacuum falls in that range with the stock engine. A shop like AAM should know this.
Well I found two things, 1. They did not tap the manifold for the vacuum lines for the blow off valves; instead they used the big vacuum hose that goes off manifold into the firewall and t fitted twice off of it. I will have to wait and see if they found the vacuum at idle and ask what spring they used.
2. My car on their dyno sheet hit 15.5 pounds boost, so should I find the vacuum and use that to detriment what spring I need? Or is he using the boost controller to control the level of pressure so he doesn't need to change out the spring? AKA can i do it myself( which i'm not sure i can do)?

Is my car ok at the moment?
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Old 04-15-2017, 09:14 AM   #7 (permalink)
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How many pounds of pressure were they seeing on the dyno when tuning it?
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Old 04-15-2017, 10:58 AM   #8 (permalink)
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It was max 15.5 . The greddy was set at 45% gain.
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Old 04-15-2017, 03:16 PM   #9 (permalink)
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You need to find out what your vacuum is at idle, with the engine fully warmed up. From there you need to get the correct BOV spring. I am guessing your vacuum will be in the -18 to-19 Hg. Which means you need a lighter spring. Til Sport also recommends that each BOV has its own dedicated vacuum source from the manifold, via 1/4" hose, with no more than 48" between BOV and vacuum source (manifold). This is why in my instructions it tells the installer to drill the very front of the manifold, to keep that hose as short as possible.

BOV's work on vacuum, and if the vacuum in the manifold is not strong enough to overcome the spring, you could see compressor surge because the air has no way out, if the BOV is not opening fully.

With this out of the way, you at least know this part of the install was done correctly.
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Old 04-15-2017, 05:02 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boosted Performance View Post
You need to find out what your vacuum is at idle, with the engine fully warmed up. From there you need to get the correct BOV spring. I am guessing your vacuum will be in the -18 to-19 Hg. Which means you need a lighter spring. Til Sport also recommends that each BOV has its own dedicated vacuum source from the manifold, via 1/4" hose, with no more than 48" between BOV and vacuum source (manifold). This is why in my instructions it tells the installer to drill the very front of the manifold, to keep that hose as short as possible.

BOV's work on vacuum, and if the vacuum in the manifold is not strong enough to overcome the spring, you could see compressor surge because the air has no way out, if the BOV is not opening fully.

With this out of the way, you at least know this part of the install was done correctly.
hey gonna pm you. thanks for the response.
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Old 04-20-2017, 10:58 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Does anyone have the link to the new version of the kit? I have the V1 instructions. Thanks
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Old 04-21-2017, 06:22 PM   #12 (permalink)
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SOOOO>>>.<<<< here I am guys, going to need some help since i haven't done this before. I have one bov that is on the driver's side. I have two waste gates on the passengers side by the turbo. Unfortunately they ran the whole set up wrong so my brother and I have to redo it. They feed the BOV off a t that was coming of a vacuum on the back of the manifold; the other line was going to the boost controller. It also looks like they ran the waste gates off of separate t's. I will have to get the G reddy instruction and make sure to do it right. ..... They seem to have a t that they don't need. What I am gong to do is just rerun it. I do have a few questions if I can ask.

What my bother and I did today, was correct the bov by tapping the manifold and running a dedicated line for it. I have gotten to change out the spring yet so I still don't see vacuum. And on to the waste gates....I cant seem to get them to work. I have both ports on the waste-gates hooked up one line down with a t to the WG on the bottom side, and one line with a t coming back up. This is were I get confused. I have a greddy profec, which has a control box with a inline filter. a solonid with port 1 and 3 being used with port two with no plug and left open. I ran the control box line to the nipple on the charge pipe and put the lower WG line to port 3 and the upper WG line to port one. I did it wrong and I know just looking to get it right really need some help.... Thanks guys!
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Old 04-21-2017, 07:07 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Old 04-21-2017, 08:42 PM   #14 (permalink)
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A picture is worth a thousand words. This is how my setup is done.
i'm gonna look dumb but I don't understand the picture... I under stand the BOV part but the part on the left and the right are the ones I don't understand.
what is the second vacuum line coming off the front of the Intake manifold? I also don't see were the solonid is? did you hook up to port one and come out port 2 while leaving port three open or block? sorry for the question's i have never run a BC before...
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Old 04-22-2017, 02:38 PM   #15 (permalink)
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I fixed it!!! The part i didn't get was the control unit and the waste gates are seperate systems. I had to tap the fuel pressure regulate, and not try to plumb it in with the waste gate system. Now i just need that re-tune from aam and will be good to go, but I was seeing my vacuum, boost, and not over boosting like it was. So very good day. I want to thank those that help me figer it out. Also just for the record because of the way it was hooked up AAM is compensating me with a AAM intake manifold.
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