Stillen Air to Air setup

ANMVQ

WOW thats out of the intake plenum :/. UG

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14 Q50 AWD, ARK, ECUTEK (SEB), Takda,

TopgunZ

Yeah. Thats why this thing is only good for their carb approval kit of 8psi and it is not designed to cool off anything over that.

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ANMVQ

BTW PM me about your BP kit plans

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14 Q50 AWD, ARK, ECUTEK (SEB), Takda,

TKomodo

That IC is just the manifold part of the system. Upgrading the external heat exchanger make a big difference in IAT.

The Frozen Boost exchanger is quite a bit larger than the Stillen exchanger.

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TopgunZ

Yes but even if that front mount was the size of the whole bumper itself it wouldn't be able to handle the heat generated at 10+ psi. It ALL still has to go through the 3 whole inches of aftercooler core in the mani. That is the ONLY part that cools the charge air.

How do we know how much more efficiently that frozen boost front mount is cooling the charge? Has anyone taken an aftermarket intake temp sensor and stuck it in the manifold after the cooler and measured the stillen one, then put the frozen boost one on it and measured that one? I am sure it does drop it down some. However, at 9psi and stillen ic at 200* ait's and frozen boost at 180* is still not efficient enough to crank the boost up to 12psi. You will be seeing iat's that will be disastrous. That's what this whole thread is solving.

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swiss370Z

There's someone ... who has this plan
If my "Z" is finally back, I will Report......sometime



.....of waiting

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/// ONE LAST RIDE /// R.I.P. FAIRLADY Z ///

swiss370Z

BTW:

I found this

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/// ONE LAST RIDE /// R.I.P. FAIRLADY Z ///

Z&I

CIN Motorsports custom Bracket with Vortech V7 SC'r, Gates Green Stripe Belts, CIN Custom Intake - Tried to get one, but Bobby had designed and built this for a customer and wasn't ready to go in to full production with it.

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TKomodo

the Frozen Boost exchanger doesn't cool the intake air, it cools the water that circulates through the intake manifold. So, where would you put that sensor? I can tell you that the difference when driving before and after installing the Frozen Boost unit is very noticeable. Heat soak is a lot harder to reach than with the Stillen exchanger.

TopgunZ

Does your motor run on water? Or air and fuel?

Intake temps bro. Intake manifold or plenum, whatever.

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victorofhavoc

Do you think replacing that intake core you pulled out with a copper one would help reduce IAT? Water traditionally is more efficient than air...heat soak is another story, but I would think the peltier effect of the stillen water cooling could be greatly improved with some copper core units on either end for more efficient heat transfer. Then again, flow v. rate of cooling is a factor as well. Improving the flow and allowing sufficient time for water to be cooled could in fact make this system very efficient. Has anyone yet tried increasing the tubing diameter, flow rate (bigger pump?), and core size all together?

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Had a 2010 WRX- boy was it quick in a straight line, got a 2014 Z- man is she grippy in the corners-- then left the Z and later got a GTI, now back in an 09 racecar Z!

TopgunZ

Really a guy could just buy a nice racing radiator you would normally use to cool your engine water for long track days. Something like a Mishimoto or the like.

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Z&I

I also thought of going A/C delete along with the Mishimoto racing radiator (removing the A/C heat exchanger section) and using the new found space for the barrel style I/C heat exchanger.

I know you are definitely committed to going Air to Air - It is an extremely reasonable endeavor and the whole purpose of this thread.
I believe you are really on to something here...and you stand to become the 'Hero of Heat' when you get your design configured, installed, and cooling.

Just laying some ground work here for you - And perhaps some others who may be considering upgrading the Stillen ... Doesn't make sense to waste time doing something that someone else has already thought of or even proven doesn't work or isn't practical.

A number of us have already wrestled with trying to find the solution to make the Stillen work with the w2a.

So far there have been a few other novel ideas posted that have been given a great deal of thought and do have some merit.

Hopefully discussing the pro's and con's of each approach will benefit all.

Attached are some pics of the barrel heat exchanger (preliminary dimensions), and the location for the I/C.
I was able to find some more room for the I/C by removing some material from the radiator brace...so the I/C could have possibly have been even larger.

Plazmamans response was not to recommend the idea of 2 smaller I/C's but to go with 1 larger one instead, even though they have seen both ways installed.

Either way - the w2a solution was getting more complicated as time went on.

https://www.plazmaman.com/

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TopgunZ

Do they make an overdrive crank pulley for the Z?

Has anyone toyed with this yet? It could crank out more psi with less chance of slippage on the sc belt.

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Z&I

Hi Aaron ...
I was hoping that someone would jump in on this one!
I had researched this area when I was still building the Stillen.
Never was able to find a definitive answer though ... but I did speak with Bobby at CIN Motorsports and he was developing an overdrive pulley to spin up his Vortech V7 project.
He said he was going to need a 'slightly' larger crank pulley but didn't have the actual percentage figured out ... and was still in the trial and error phase of his engineering.
Something to consider is the max rating of the Stillen/Vortech V3 is 55000 RPM with the upgraded impeller.
Attached is a copy of the Dyno Run on my car with the Stillen showing little gain in HP and Tqe dropping off after 6900 RPM - Reducing your shift point actually might work to your advantage here.

Here is a link to check out - NST Pulleys.
10% overdrive on the crank might be too much for your SC'r application.
Maybe NST can come up with a custom solution for you combining a lesser overdrive % on the crank and the corresponding underdrive on the accessories.

NST Nissan 370Z Pulley Kit Dyno Testing | NonStopTuning

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