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Car won't start!...and it's not the Steering Lock...

Guys, is there a DIY on removing and cleaning the clutch switch? If so, can't find it. I've been having the intermittent starting problem for the last 6 months or

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Old 05-04-2015, 02:10 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Guys, is there a DIY on removing and cleaning the clutch switch? If so, can't find it.

I've been having the intermittent starting problem for the last 6 months or so. I'm sick of it. Looks like this could be my problem cuz I get the clutch display on the cluster when it doesn't fire up. Steering Lock fuse has been removed and symptoms are exactly the same as described in this thread.

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Old 05-04-2015, 09:53 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Never mind. Didn't have to remove anything. Took a cleaning towel and wiped the top of the switch. Made sure to get all around the little black knob. Car has fired up 10 times in a row now without an issue.
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Old 08-13-2015, 09:31 AM   #3 (permalink)
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If my car had that problem i would be opening up that momentary switch and blasting the internals with RC car motor spray (or basically electronics contact cleaner). then coating the contact lightly with WD40.

that said if u cant' remove it, why not just wrap it with a paper towel and go to town with contact cleaner spray? just let it sit a few min to let the product dry inside.
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Old 08-13-2015, 04:20 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kenchan View Post
If my car had that problem i would be opening up that momentary switch and blasting the internals with RC car motor spray (or basically electronics contact cleaner). then coating the contact lightly with WD40.

that said if u cant' remove it, why not just wrap it with a paper towel and go to town with contact cleaner spray? just let it sit a few min to let the product dry inside.
ill try that out
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Old 08-16-2015, 07:46 PM   #5 (permalink)
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used Contact cleaner spray, sprayed it all over the clutch switch. still had issues starting the next day
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Old 03-29-2016, 03:48 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Default Sorry for the thread revival

But I can confirm in my australian 2013 370Z that the issue comes from the clutch interlock switch that was shown on page 3 of this thread. Genuine replacement parts are coming from Japan which will take 4-6 weeks but it was only Aud30 or so. The mechanic has cleaned the two connecting rods thing in the switch and car starts up now without any hesitation.

Some final notes:
If you're experiencing the constant cycling between lock, ACC, On and off without anything else happening, this clutch interlock switch is probably dieing.
If you're having slow cranking, consider a new battery with a minimum of 582 CCA. I went with PowerSonic PNS70LMF batteries at my local Bridgestone Tire Centre and it fits fine in the battery compartment. MIND YOU, the car needs constant power even when swapping batteries, otherwise you'll have to factory reset the ECU at your local Nissan to get the windows to close up when you close your door.
Not much I can say about the steering lock mechanism except that you should have power steering function i.e. no steering lock when the car is on ON, otherwise get that checked.

Hope this helps!
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Old 03-29-2016, 10:32 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ghostbusters View Post
MIND YOU, the car needs constant power even when swapping batteries, otherwise you'll have to factory reset the ECU at your local Nissan to get the windows to close up when you close your door.
First, let me say I am very happy you got your issue sorted out

But the statement above is a bit ridiculous. Just make sure windows are down when you swap batteries and do the window reset procedure after. There is absolutely no need to go to a dealer for a factory reset of the ECU

I just had to replace mine the other week. I did it in the auto parts store parking lot with no issues.
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Old 04-19-2016, 02:21 PM   #8 (permalink)
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^Just a heads up.
I'd advise that you change both switches.
There are two switches and changing only one did not solve the issue for me.
When I replaced both switches, that's when the problem went away for good.
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Old 05-01-2017, 08:42 AM   #9 (permalink)
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true. I used emery paper. Almost the same. Burnishing sticks are the proper tool
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Old 05-01-2017, 10:14 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Emery is not a terrible choice (I've used it more than once on ignition points when a burnisher wasn't handy), it's just that the diamond dust found on most burnishers does a much better job. If emery is all you have, go for it.
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Old 05-28-2018, 07:53 PM   #11 (permalink)
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So i came to this thread and my problem was fixed after i opened switched cleaned and put back, its been couple of weeks and it has given issues even once. I used dermel tool from harbor freight i bought for abt $7 and used bronze wire on it to buff the contacts first and then used the cotton buff part also came with dermel tool to buff it smooth. I took some pictures of switch to give idea what it looks like.








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Old 05-29-2018, 09:22 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Its been a long time since I’ve owned a car with a mt, does starting the car in neutral still bypass the switch?
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Old 06-10-2018, 03:21 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trek View Post
Its been a long time since I’ve owned a car with a mt, does starting the car in neutral still bypass the switch?
For me, putting in neutrl didnt have any effect it was still a no go
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Old 07-01-2013, 04:27 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kenchan View Post
...so are we starting to see the initial failures of the 'remove steering lock fuse remedy'?

and you guys know baer's long gone with his new nismo that doesn't even have the steering lock...
IBTL

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