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Guys, is there a DIY on removing and cleaning the clutch switch? If so, can't find it. I've been having the intermittent starting problem for the last 6 months or
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#1 (permalink) |
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Base Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Riverside, CA
Age: 40
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Drives: 2010 Nismo
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Guys, is there a DIY on removing and cleaning the clutch switch? If so, can't find it.
I've been having the intermittent starting problem for the last 6 months or so. I'm sick of it. Looks like this could be my problem cuz I get the clutch display on the cluster when it doesn't fire up. Steering Lock fuse has been removed and symptoms are exactly the same as described in this thread. Last edited by JaviZ; 05-04-2015 at 02:49 PM. |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Never mind. Didn't have to remove anything. Took a cleaning towel and wiped the top of the switch. Made sure to get all around the little black knob. Car has fired up 10 times in a row now without an issue.
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#3 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
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If my car had that problem i would be opening up that momentary switch and blasting the internals with RC car motor spray (or basically electronics contact cleaner). then coating the contact lightly with WD40.
that said if u cant' remove it, why not just wrap it with a paper towel and go to town with contact cleaner spray? just let it sit a few min to let the product dry inside. |
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#4 (permalink) | |
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#6 (permalink) |
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But I can confirm in my australian 2013 370Z that the issue comes from the clutch interlock switch that was shown on page 3 of this thread. Genuine replacement parts are coming from Japan which will take 4-6 weeks but it was only Aud30 or so. The mechanic has cleaned the two connecting rods thing in the switch and car starts up now without any hesitation.
Some final notes: If you're experiencing the constant cycling between lock, ACC, On and off without anything else happening, this clutch interlock switch is probably dieing. If you're having slow cranking, consider a new battery with a minimum of 582 CCA. I went with PowerSonic PNS70LMF batteries at my local Bridgestone Tire Centre and it fits fine in the battery compartment. MIND YOU, the car needs constant power even when swapping batteries, otherwise you'll have to factory reset the ECU at your local Nissan to get the windows to close up when you close your door. Not much I can say about the steering lock mechanism except that you should have power steering function i.e. no steering lock when the car is on ON, otherwise get that checked. Hope this helps! |
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#7 (permalink) | |
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![]() But the statement above is a bit ridiculous. Just make sure windows are down when you swap batteries and do the window reset procedure after. There is absolutely no need to go to a dealer for a factory reset of the ECU ![]() I just had to replace mine the other week. I did it in the auto parts store parking lot with no issues.
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#8 (permalink) |
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^Just a heads up.
I'd advise that you change both switches. There are two switches and changing only one did not solve the issue for me. When I replaced both switches, that's when the problem went away for good.
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#9 (permalink) |
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true. I used emery paper. Almost the same. Burnishing sticks are the proper tool
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#10 (permalink) |
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Emery is not a terrible choice (I've used it more than once on ignition points when a burnisher wasn't handy), it's just that the diamond dust found on most burnishers does a much better job. If emery is all you have, go for it.
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#11 (permalink) |
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So i came to this thread and my problem was fixed after i opened switched cleaned and put back, its been couple of weeks and it has given issues even once. I used dermel tool from harbor freight i bought for abt $7 and used bronze wire on it to buff the contacts first and then used the cotton buff part also came with dermel tool to buff it smooth. I took some pictures of switch to give idea what it looks like.
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#14 (permalink) | |
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