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Buffing...is it bad?

Originally Posted by StealthZ Knowing a lot about the subject and never doing it are different. I do a lot of detailing, and can tell you this car is no

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Old 07-01-2009, 01:58 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by StealthZ View Post
Knowing a lot about the subject and never doing it are different. I do a lot of detailing, and can tell you this car is no different then others. mny etails with buffing/polishing on nissans from pathfinders to 350z to porches etc... yes there are different types of paint but all can be buffed.
There is a difference with this paint compared with a lot of others. It comes down to the hardness of the paint, which in return will marr a lot easier than say some Chevy vehicles. 370 paint is fairly soft so proper washing is essential. Yes all paint can be polished if there is enough clear on the car.

Proper wash technique is paramount. Use two buckets and a sheepskin wash mitt. One bucket for the wash and one for the rinse. After pre-rinsing the car wash about a 2x2 foot area at a time rinsing in between. Wash from the Top of the car to the bottom with light pressure or you will marr your paint. Tires and rims must have separate mitts and a separate bucket is recommended. Never cross contaminate or you will pay dearly. Wash out mitt and hang to dry. Use a microfiber drying towel to dry the car or better yet a leaf blower, this really is a nice way to dry the car with out marring it.

What I use for my customers when I wash a previously polished car is a foam gun. This eliminates the wash bucket and continually sprays soap between paint and mitt for a perfect marr free wash. It is also great for claying as there is continual lubrication. Hope this helps.
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Old 07-01-2009, 04:54 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I use a porter cable random orbital buffer on my black car works just fine. Just make sure not to use an abrasive pad on it.
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Old 07-01-2009, 06:25 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by bigaudiofanat View Post
I use a porter cable random orbital buffer on my black car works just fine. Just make sure not to use an abrasive pad on it.
....as long as it wasn't like the black car above where the owner thought the paint looked just fine as well
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Old 07-01-2009, 06:57 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I use a porter cable random orbital buffer on my black car works just fine. Just make sure not to use an abrasive pad on it.
Yeah, there is a little more to it than that. If you are trying to remove medium to heavy swirling you will definitely need more than a polishing pad. Cutting, polishing and finishing pads are needed to achieve the best results. Knowing the right pad and polish combo, the right pressure with the right speed with the right technique, this is what is needed to achieve superior results. You also have to consider the type of paint being worked on, as they are all different, and the right amount of polish for the pad as well as how long to work the polish. Polishes with diminishing abrasives differ from polishes with non-diminishing abrasives. Not working the polish just right will leave the finish in a less than desirable state. Also a polish or compound that works well on paint "A" may not work as well on paint "B". Just a few of the things I've learned over the years.
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Old 07-02-2009, 12:58 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Here is a better picture of the before/after side by side of the G35 and the car after a road trip and a few days of driving around (eg no wash/wax yet).....
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Before After 1920.jpg (410.7 KB, 462 views)
File Type: jpg G35 Beacon Hill 1920.jpg (632.4 KB, 18 views)
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Old 07-05-2009, 10:39 PM   #6 (permalink)
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If youre interested in learning more about proper paint care I suggest you join these forums:

Detailing Classes - Sign Up Here - Car Care Forums: Meguiar's Online

They offer "mobile" classes, but for the most part they're only offered in California and the more 'popular' regions. If they happen to have one in your area I suggest you attend. Everyone here has a new car so it's the perfect time to learn.

I took classes when I bought my first new car (06 Si), and she's one of the best maintained Si's in So Cal - although my opinion is probably a bit biased. Meguiars offers a ton of learning resources which is why I stick with them, but Mothers products are also very competitive, as is 3M with their 303 protectant etc. Spend some time and check out your options!
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Old 07-06-2009, 06:56 PM   #7 (permalink)
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buffing causes swirl marks..
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Old 07-06-2009, 07:18 PM   #8 (permalink)
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buffing causes swirl marks..
No. Look at the photo's above, do you see any swirl marks in the black G35 I polished. Now an inexperienced person will more than likely cause swirling from polishing incorrectly.
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Old 07-08-2009, 06:38 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by hybridnation View Post
buffing causes swirl marks..

Buffing does not cause swirl marks. Its the dirt and dust that gets cought in the buffer do to lack of attention of where you put the pads, that causes the swirl marks.

Same thing if you are wet sanding with a bucket of water. A piece of dirt or something gets int he water, on the sand paper, and your wet sanding. As you move the paper that dirt is stuck between and is being pushed around the paint.

Professionals never put their buffers on the ground. GOOD professionals I mean.
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Old 07-08-2009, 09:45 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Buffing does not cause swirl marks. Its the dirt and dust that gets cought in the buffer do to lack of attention of where you put the pads, that causes the swirl marks.:
That is not correct. Now I'm not saying that dirt doesn't cause swirling in paint from a pad that has dirt on it, because it will, but 99.99% of the time it's from incorrect pad and polish and or compound combination with poor technique that is the cause. If, for example, you are using diminishing abrasives and you don't brake them down properly you will never get a swirl free finish. There are so many variables involved in getting a perfect finish. That is why it takes patience, knowledge and experience to achieve a perfect finish. Most detailers will not spend the time and research needed to perfect the art of polishing. They do it for the wrong reasons, all they see is $$$.
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Old 07-08-2009, 11:11 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Buffing CAN cause swirl marks, but most of the time it's either intentional or because you're doing it wrong. Always make sure you have a clean buffing pad. NEVER use a pad after you drop it on the floor or let it come in contact with anything soiled with any sort of grit. Make sure you're using the right pad for the right application, and make sure you're using the correct compounds.
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Old 07-08-2009, 11:50 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Celcius View Post
Buffing CAN cause swirl marks, but most of the time it's either intentional or because you're doing it wrong. Always make sure you have a clean buffing pad. NEVER use a pad after you drop it on the floor or let it come in contact with anything soiled with any sort of grit. Make sure you're using the right pad for the right application, and make sure you're using the correct compounds.
I totally agree. Also, using a clay bar after washing the car will remove allot of debris from the paint. By removing this additional dirt, and always using clean pads (as mentioned above) I get pretty good results with my Porter Cable. My detail procedure is as follows:
1) wash (with dawn)
2) clay bar
3) wash again (new water soap)
4) polish (somtimes I use a cleaner first)
5) glaze (optional, but good for balck)
6) wax
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Old 07-08-2009, 09:26 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Celcius View Post
Buffing CAN cause swirl marks, but most of the time it's either intentional or because you're doing it wrong. Always make sure you have a clean buffing pad. NEVER use a pad after you drop it on the floor or let it come in contact with anything soiled with any sort of grit. Make sure you're using the right pad for the right application, and make sure you're using the correct compounds.
I have a hard time believing that someone would "intentionally" polish your car so it would have swirls after . No, it's because they have no f@#$ing idea what they are doing. Most if not all high volume shops really don't perform a quality detail. The reason isn't always because of lack of knowledge, it's because you can't charge a reasonable price and spend all day properly detailing a car. It's not profitable, you would go broke. If it's a small operation with little to no overhead, it's doable. You have to charge serious amounts of money to run a big business like that. Just something to keep in mind. You should never let someone detail your car until you have seen their work first hand. It's a very good idea to use someone that someone you know has used and is very happy with.
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Old 07-08-2009, 12:23 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Well, this thread just convinced me to hire the detailer that I mentioned earlier...

$275, inside and out, claybar, 2-stage polish, 9mo sealer, conditioner/stainguard interior...wheel/tire dress, etc...

Maybe it's a bit pricy, maybe not. For $275, if she looks as good as she should have the day I bought her, then it will be worth it.
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Old 07-08-2009, 03:24 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Hmm... be careful - that's awefully cheap... make sure they aren't using a glaze that fills the scratches in - after a few washes it will look like you put swirl marks back into your car but you just washe out the glaze. I also suspect the 9 month sealer is good if you never wash your car but once you start washing almost any sealer will start to come off. That's fine - just make sure you seal your car with a good wax - carnuba or synthetic (I think most would agree on a synthetic for a daily driver - carnuba for a constantly detailed vehicle).

Oh and just because someone works on really expensive cars doesn't mean the care about the longevity of their work - see the glaze info above...
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