Removing seats - attachment issue

ChrisSlicks · 08-19-2012, 08:24 PM

So I was removing the stock seats today and found that on both sides the rear bolt hole near the transmission tunnel did not have a welded in captive stud. Instead there was some plastic looking piece in there that promptly slid out of reach sandwiched in between two pieces of steel.

I took everything off from the underside to see if it would be accessible but it is inside a boxed-in section of body.

Anyone else have this issue? Any workarounds short of cutting things open and welding in what should have been there in the first place?

Nut_N_Much · 08-19-2012, 08:46 PM

Didn't have that issues when I took mine out. That is weird, safety you would think it was a welded bung, not plastic. The only thing I can think of is take some automotive goop and put it on the end of a piece of wire. Let it get tacky and try to put it in the hole and pull the plastic piece back into place.

Hope it works.

ChrisSlicks · 08-19-2012, 09:00 PM

It's a little tricky because things go "downhill" there so to speak. I'm not sure how far it slid down, and even if I get it back I'm not sure of a good way to secure it while I try to thread a bolt in.

I've never seen this issue before and people here have swapped seats all over the place so I don't get why mine is "special". It has a manufacture date from 2008 and so is from one of the first batches of 2009's off the line but that shouldn't change anything.

Nut_N_Much · 08-19-2012, 09:28 PM

You could drill it out, insert a nut and weld it in. Use a fiber weld blanked round your carpet. Take your time and don't weld it all at once will keep the heat down. Small tacs and some water in a spray bottle would work.

Or drill strait threw, use some washers and long enough bolt, don't use grade 8, go with something softer.

Did it in a jeep...

ChrisSlicks · 08-20-2012, 07:00 AM

Thanks,

I'm going to try and weld one in. I'm wondering if the nut was originally held in place somehow but broke free from all my high-G track/auto-x driving.

Nut_N_Much · 08-20-2012, 07:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChrisSlicks

Thanks,

I'm going to try and weld one in. I'm wondering if the nut was originally held in place somehow but broke free from all my high-G track/auto-x driving.

Could have, I would like to think it's engineered better..

Good luck with the weld, should work fine, just time consuming..

ChrisSlicks · 08-20-2012, 09:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nut_N_Much

Could have, I would like to think it's engineered better..

Good luck with the weld, should work fine, just time consuming..

On closer inspection it looks like that is exactly what happened. I can see some metal fatigue cracks and the welds that were holding it in place failed and it dropped down into the abyss. The passenger side is fine.

My options are top weld a nut and bend the bracket a bit or cut out a piece and weld it in proper. I'm going to call around tomorrow and see who can do the weld for me since I don't have a welder and even if I did, I can't weld for shyte

I pulled the carpet so it should be fairly straight forward for a skilled welder.

Thanks for the help!

Nut_N_Much · 08-25-2012, 01:37 PM

Man, I wish you were out here I'd do it for you. Take it easy..

ChrisSlicks · 08-25-2012, 06:06 PM

Forgot to update. We managed to get the stock nut back in position and weld it back in place. 45 minutes of fiddling and 10 seconds of welding.

08-19-2012, 08:24 PM	#1 (permalink)
ChrisSlicks A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: North East Posts: 6,203 Drives: 09 370Z Sport M6 Rep Power: 654	Removing seats - attachment issue So I was removing the stock seats today and found that on both sides the rear bolt hole near the transmission tunnel did not have a welded in captive stud. Instead there was some plastic looking piece in there that promptly slid out of reach sandwiched in between two pieces of steel. I took everything off from the underside to see if it would be accessible but it is inside a boxed-in section of body. Anyone else have this issue? Any workarounds short of cutting things open and welding in what should have been there in the first place? __________________ Hotchkis ARB \| Stillen CAI \| Art Pipes \| Berk CBE \| Stillen AP Racing Brakes \| AE Performance Oil Cooler \| BC Racing ER Coilovers \| Doran Control Arms

08-19-2012, 08:46 PM	#2 (permalink)
Nut_N_Much A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Pensacola Florida Posts: 1,696 Drives: Awesome Car Rep Power: 27	Didn't have that issues when I took mine out. That is weird, safety you would think it was a welded bung, not plastic. The only thing I can think of is take some automotive goop and put it on the end of a piece of wire. Let it get tacky and try to put it in the hole and pull the plastic piece back into place. Hope it works. __________________ Did new cool science stuff to the car !!! http://www.the370z.com/mazoc/99606-z...y-14-17-a.html http://www.the370z.com/diy-section-d...-w-videos.html

08-19-2012, 09:00 PM	#3 (permalink)
ChrisSlicks A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: North East Posts: 6,203 Drives: 09 370Z Sport M6 Rep Power: 654	It's a little tricky because things go "downhill" there so to speak. I'm not sure how far it slid down, and even if I get it back I'm not sure of a good way to secure it while I try to thread a bolt in. I've never seen this issue before and people here have swapped seats all over the place so I don't get why mine is "special". It has a manufacture date from 2008 and so is from one of the first batches of 2009's off the line but that shouldn't change anything. __________________ Hotchkis ARB \| Stillen CAI \| Art Pipes \| Berk CBE \| Stillen AP Racing Brakes \| AE Performance Oil Cooler \| BC Racing ER Coilovers \| Doran Control Arms

08-19-2012, 09:28 PM	#4 (permalink)
Nut_N_Much A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Pensacola Florida Posts: 1,696 Drives: Awesome Car Rep Power: 27	You could drill it out, insert a nut and weld it in. Use a fiber weld blanked round your carpet. Take your time and don't weld it all at once will keep the heat down. Small tacs and some water in a spray bottle would work. Or drill strait threw, use some washers and long enough bolt, don't use grade 8, go with something softer. Did it in a jeep... __________________ Did new cool science stuff to the car !!! http://www.the370z.com/mazoc/99606-z...y-14-17-a.html http://www.the370z.com/diy-section-d...-w-videos.html

08-20-2012, 07:00 AM	#5 (permalink)
ChrisSlicks A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: North East Posts: 6,203 Drives: 09 370Z Sport M6 Rep Power: 654	Thanks, I'm going to try and weld one in. I'm wondering if the nut was originally held in place somehow but broke free from all my high-G track/auto-x driving. __________________ Hotchkis ARB \| Stillen CAI \| Art Pipes \| Berk CBE \| Stillen AP Racing Brakes \| AE Performance Oil Cooler \| BC Racing ER Coilovers \| Doran Control Arms

08-25-2012, 01:37 PM	#8 (permalink)
Nut_N_Much A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Pensacola Florida Posts: 1,696 Drives: Awesome Car Rep Power: 27	Man, I wish you were out here I'd do it for you. Take it easy.. __________________ Did new cool science stuff to the car !!! http://www.the370z.com/mazoc/99606-z...y-14-17-a.html http://www.the370z.com/diy-section-d...-w-videos.html

08-25-2012, 06:06 PM	#9 (permalink)
ChrisSlicks A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: North East Posts: 6,203 Drives: 09 370Z Sport M6 Rep Power: 654	Forgot to update. We managed to get the stock nut back in position and weld it back in place. 45 minutes of fiddling and 10 seconds of welding. __________________ Hotchkis ARB \| Stillen CAI \| Art Pipes \| Berk CBE \| Stillen AP Racing Brakes \| AE Performance Oil Cooler \| BC Racing ER Coilovers \| Doran Control Arms

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