Can this stuff be used on wheel wells? Like the black plastic? If you took them out and sprayed them with a few coats? Seems like this would keep them protected and also
keeps the ugly faded look from happening.

Not all of them are unpaved. That was actually at a friend of mines house.. I have a cement driveway. Just depends on the type of area that you are in. His house was near horse ranches, acre properties, etc..Less commercial area.

Thanks for the compliments! :tiphat:
If anything it will protect my splash guards. I was actually starting to get black that trailed onto my rear bumper above the exhaust. The plasti dip protects that entirely & I can remove it whenever.

Probably.. Think of it like a bedliner for a truck.. Only i think this stuff is flammable & can be removed much easier then the bedliner.

If you don't feel like using plasti-dip.. you can probably go get mothers "Back To Black" and clean the inside of your wheel well?

Plasti-dip is great for some things, but should not be overused in all places. Excellent for emblems, valences, and some small parts with smooth curfaces. I don't think it's good for wheels unless it's a very flat, big surface. Imagine removing it from a multi-spoke wheel or mesh? lol you'll be there for hours

plasti-dip fever everywhere! :icon18:

Goo gone works very well for this. Spray it on, leave it for like 1-2 mins, then just wipe it off.

Yeah, and spraying more than 1 little coat. The more you spray, the easier it is to remove.

:roflpuke2::roflpuke2: You would think so by the looks of some the peoples Zs on here.

I am thinking about plasti-diping my emblems on my Yellow Z. Anyone have pictures of this done? I am mainly looking at just doing the 370z badge on the back and leaving the rest. Any thoughts?

Do it.

Its the easiest mod- Takes $5 and 15 minutes of time

Yeah I went Plasti-Dip crazy on my old Foxbody Mustang! I got cans and cans of it laying around. I will try and get it done after work today and report back!

Great job Nick; I like the look of your car. One thing though, it looks like from the video that the edges around the fang area didn't end up with a clean edge.

That's where I am struggling with trying to paint that area. I've watched all the videos and undertand why it breaks away clean on emblems, lights, door handles, and anything with a defined edge.

However, there is no defined edge for the fang area,so you have to rely on a clean tape edge. I've yet to hear how you can remove the tape cleanly after applying four coats without the edges being ragged if you are going to let it dry between coats like is recommended.

I can't see any other way for getting a clean edge that to run an exacto knife or razor blade along the tape line before removing the tape.

Am I missing something here, or just over-analyzing the whole thing?

You're supposed to peel of the tape while the plasti dip is still wet to get a clean edge with tape. Spray one heavy coat and peel off the tape before it dries.

Thanks for the compliments! :tiphat:
If you pause my video that i put on youtube of my walk-around at 2:07 you will notice that there is a scrape on the front. I made a thread about it too. Someone hit me on a bicycle. So the pedal scrape went from the bumper and scraped all the way on the fang area...
To make a long story short, the day after the accident, I didn't tape off the fang area and just sprayed a couple light coats on the fang to cover up the scrape...that is why the corners in the video look bad. If you saw my car today, the edges are all perfect.


Am I missing something here, or just over-analyzing the whole thing?[/QUOTE]
You can wait in between coats to let it all dry, but when your going to pull the tape, you will want to put a wet coat on top of the area that you will be pulling the tape off of, so that they plasti-dip becomes wet again. The stuff under the wet coat will also become wet so thats why it leaves a perfect edge. It confused me at first too, i kept messing up!

Hope this helps!

You can wait in between coats to let it all dry, but when your going to pull the tape, you will want to put a wet coat on top of the area that you will be pulling the tape off of, so that they plasti-dip becomes wet again. The stuff under the wet coat will also become wet so thats why it leaves a perfect edge. It confused me at first too, i kept messing up!

Hope this helps![/QUOTE]

Thank you, thank you both! Finally, someone has explained this. :happydance:

So basically, the last coat of PlastiDip will re-moisten the previous dry coat just enough for the tape to pull away cleanily. THAT"S the part I could never figure out.

Nick - I wasn't trying to be condescending in anyway pointing out the jagged edge, the car looks great. :tup:

Not condescending at all!

I was skeptical about plasti-dip at first. Thinking that I was making my car ghetto..

I believe 100% that if you do it properly, it looks great..

Let me know if you need any other plasti-dip help..
I think my car is the most dipped on the forum!
Unless someone has done their whole car.

Did my grille area and part of the spoiler. Should have scribed the edge before lifting the tape.

I'm going to let it dry for a few days then I'll laydown some tape and scribe a new line on each side of the spoiler.

Hey guys,

This plasti-dip stuff is really awesome for some light modding. Has anyone been to a car wash with it, though? Does it rub off? If I'm getting the car detailed, should I tell the guy not to touch that area? Thanks, guys!

You can go thru car washes- just tell them not to touch the plasti dip on the wheels/handles/front/back/or emblems.. wherever you have it..

I was my car by hand everytime, so i dont take it thru power washes or anything like that..

yoo as long as you dont use the brush you should be str*, plasti is pretty durable. :tup:

Having it detailed in a couple of days. Just want to know if I should tell the guys at the shop not to touch it. Thanks for all the info, guys.

To get a clean edge you have to spray thick and quick and remove the tape before it dries. That is the only way I have seen that will work. If you let it dry it will take the path of least resistance.... Do it's own thing. Hope that helps.

J

:iagree:

However, that is counter to the way all the Dipyour car.com videos show you. Fonzi is pretty adamant that you start off with a light base coat and then apply heavier successive coats.

What he DOESN'T ever show is a situation where he is painting a flat, contiguous area where a sharp edge is desired. Emblems, rims, and door handles all have specific edges relative to the areas around them. The Dip gets into the gaps, isn't as thick as the part being painted, and that helps you get a sharp edge.

It's really pretty easy to simply score the edge with an exacto knife. You don't have to push hard enough to damage the underlying paint. Mine came out perfectly.

As far as durability, I went on a cruise three days after painting my front end. The car was plastered with bugs, and they came right off with no damage to the Dip.

Plasti dippin my evo-r side blades

Ill post more pics when there installed :)

Attachment 58557

curious to know the durability of that, from the road grime and dirt gettin on it and all, plasti dip is pretty durable when tight but just wondering. :icon17:

Where did you order the blue PD from?

Looks great. Do you have any close-up pics of the finish? Is there a way to get a little more gloss on the brace (the flat/matte looks great on the covers)?

I wanna try this on my fang BUT I have clear bra in there..anyone tried plasti dip over clear bras??

I dont think thats gonna work, cuz when the bra comes off so will the plasti-dip atleast from a common sense perspective I would think so. :icon17:

So my only option would be getting a cf fang cover from like evo-r?

Just cut the clear bra off in the fang area so you can spray on to the paint directly.

isnt clear bra really tight tho? I would think it would be hard to cut or get down to the paint since the bra is on so tight. Maybe take it to a shop so you dont have a bunch of knife scuffs on your paint. And even with a cover Idk if it would sit snug over the bra, I think it would as its thin, but I feel it would stand up a lil. Just imo. :tiphat:

Bump for Cougar (if you pardon the expression!)

So let me get this right. If I were to plasti dip my front fangs, I would not be able to use a drive through car wash anymore?

You would risk peeling it off. It's meant to be temporary and if you wanted something that wouldn't damage as easily, an overlay would be in order.

This is my first attempt at plastidip... though I was skeptical at first, I believe in moderation and considering what you do accent this product is excellent.http://www.the370z.com/members/hartu...-rainy-day.jpg[/IMG]

Looks good. Cant really see its to dark. Thing is I domt always have time to wash the car by hand so I always fall back to laser washers. Then come home and wipe off any water spots which tend to be at minimal. This product looks good but if its that delicate then ot probably isnt for me. I can only imagine what one day in the highway would do to it.

PlastiDip over clear bra is NO problem. I painted my grill area and extended it down to the front of my spoiler (Nismo nose). The Dip adheres to the bra just as it does to paint.

If you decide to remove the Dip, you will not pull off the clear bra.

If you apply it properly, it won't come off in a car wash. If you go back and read the posts in this thread, numerous people have reported no problems with car washes.

I've literally scrubbed bugs off of my grille are with zero problems.