Oh snap, Carbon fiber rear hatch dampners...

Marco_xyz · 05-07-2010, 05:46 PM

Also, can we use the rear trunk hatch dampeners for full cf trunk hatches? If so I will take a set!

waaaasabi · 05-07-2010, 05:56 PM

Hey Marco, PM sent!

kenchan · 05-07-2010, 07:19 PM

Modshack- I got one side done and testing. It's great!

Did you use a spacer by any chance to raise the ball joint side a few mm on the tower? I ask because the damper housing is barely but surely rubbing the battery cover.

(Also dremeled out a little cutout for the shaft on the cradle part of the battery cover surround aft of the big foam cradle)

Modshack · 05-07-2010, 07:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kenchan

Modshack- I got one side done and testing. It's great!

Did you use a spacer by any chance to raise the ball joint side a few mm on the tower? I ask because the damper housing is barely but surely rubbing the battery cover.

(Also dremeled out a little cutout for the shaft on the cradle part of the battery cover surround aft of the big foam cradle)

Sounds like you got it figured out! I did dremel that plastic lip aft of the foam, and also cut a slit in the foam for the shaft to drop into without compressing it...

I didn't raise the ball (no evidence of rubbing the Bat. cover on mine) but found it necessary to unscrew the shaft, Put the little retainer clip in place with the end on the ball, then rescrew the shaft and pop it into the hood ball. Didn't use a clp there as it doesn't seem necessary and it makes it easier to snap the Cylinder off if necessary..You could always put a few washers under the triangle plate to raise if necessary....

Trips · 05-07-2010, 07:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Modshack

Sounds like you got it figured out! I did dremel that plastic lip aft of the foam, and also cut a slit in the foam for the shaft to drop into without compressing it...

I didn't raise the ball (no evidence of rubbing the Bat. cover on mine) but found it necessary to unscrew the shaft, Put the little retainer clip in place with the end on the ball, then rescrew the shaft and pop it into the hood ball. Didn't use a clp there as it doesn't seem necessary and it makes it easier to snap the Cylinder off if necessary..You could always put a few washers under the triangle plate to raise if necessary....

Hey Mod, Will this set up get in the way of the removal of the battery in the event of a Battery failure? kinda hard to tell from the angle of the pic

Modshack · 05-07-2010, 07:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Triple's

Hey Mod, Will this set up get in the way of the removal of the battery in the event of a Battery failure? kinda hard to tell from the angle of the pic

Trip......It may take an extra minute or 2 to snap off the cylinder. Seems you need to remove both the battery cover and it's plastic base to get good battery removal access...No biggy.

Trips · 05-07-2010, 07:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Modshack

Trip......It may take an extra minute or 2 to snap off the cylinder. Seems you need to remove both the battery cover and it's plastic base to get good battery removal access...No biggy.

thank you

kenchan · 05-07-2010, 07:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Modshack

Sounds like you got it figured out! I did dremel that plastic lip aft of the foam, and also cut a slit in the foam for the shaft to drop into without compressing it...

I didn't raise the ball (no evidence of rubbing the Bat. cover on mine) but found it necessary to unscrew the shaft, Put the little retainer clip in place with the end on the ball, then rescrew the shaft and pop it into the hood ball. Didn't use a clp there as it doesn't seem necessary and it makes it easier to snap the Cylinder off if necessary..You could always put a few washers under the triangle plate to raise if necessary....

Thanks again for the guidance modshack! I'm going to raise the ball joint side like 1-2mm after dinner and it should clear it on mine.

the hood closes completely stock not even a hint of bulging.

kenchan · 05-08-2010, 08:53 AM

modshack- everything turned out great.

thanks again.

on the left side my car still had a slight bulge and found that it was rubbing on this
thing (red arrow)... hahaha

so trimmed the hood bracket by about 4mm.

(label says R but it's for the left)

Modshack · 05-08-2010, 10:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kenchan

modshack- everything turned out great.

thanks again.

Looks good!...Glad I could help...

Vegitto-kun · 05-08-2010, 11:33 AM

So Did you make a DIY yet?

Modshack · 05-08-2010, 11:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Vegitto-kun

So Did you make a DIY yet?

Kenchan did, complete with the updates...

waaaasabi · 05-08-2010, 03:03 PM

Alright so I went outside during a study break to install the rear dampers. It's actually a lot easier if you ignore everything else that comes with the package (ball joints, brackets, etc.). At least one person PM'd me about the ball joint; you can, er rather should, use the stock ones.

The key is, as Ryan mentioned earlier, to install and lock in the top join first by lining it up parallel to the hatch, then whacking it in. The angle of the bottom cup joint will not match up, so you'll have to unscrew the top cup joint a bit from the damper arm.
Also you might have to unscrew the stock top ball joint a bit or else the bottom cup joint won't reach the ball joint. Then after you install and lock the bottom joint, re-screw the top ball joint up and it's all good to go.

Stock bottom brackets.

Woot woot! And yeah my car is dirty, but that's how I like my cars and my women.

Prosport Gauges · 05-08-2010, 03:52 PM

Nice!! good job

kenchan · 05-08-2010, 04:58 PM

Any bulging on the hatch?

jk

Nice job!

05-07-2010, 05:56 PM	#2 (permalink)
waaaasabi Enthusiast Member Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: New York City Posts: 491 Drives: '10 Civic (FG1) 5AT Rep Power: 18	Hey Marco, PM sent! __________________ That's SOOOO not Raven!

05-08-2010, 03:03 PM	#13 (permalink)
waaaasabi Enthusiast Member Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: New York City Posts: 491 Drives: '10 Civic (FG1) 5AT Rep Power: 18	CF Rear Hatch Dampers Alright so I went outside during a study break to install the rear dampers. It's actually a lot easier if you ignore everything else that comes with the package (ball joints, brackets, etc.). At least one person PM'd me about the ball joint; you can, er rather should, use the stock ones. The key is, as Ryan mentioned earlier, to install and lock in the top join first by lining it up parallel to the hatch, then whacking it in. The angle of the bottom cup joint will not match up, so you'll have to unscrew the top cup joint a bit from the damper arm. Also you might have to unscrew the stock top ball joint a bit or else the bottom cup joint won't reach the ball joint. Then after you install and lock the bottom joint, re-screw the top ball joint up and it's all good to go. Stock bottom brackets. Woot woot! And yeah my car is dirty, but that's how I like my cars and my women. __________________ That's SOOOO not Raven! Last edited by waaaasabi; 05-08-2010 at 05:05 PM.

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05-07-2010, 05:46 PM	#1 (permalink)
Marco_xyz Track Member Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Sunny San Diego Posts: 710 Drives: 370z / '95 Supra Rep Power: 17	Also, can we use the rear trunk hatch dampeners for full cf trunk hatches? If so I will take a set!

05-07-2010, 07:19 PM	#3 (permalink)
kenchan A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: N/A Posts: 76,801 Drives: N/A Rep Power: 141522	Modshack- I got one side done and testing. It's great! Did you use a spacer by any chance to raise the ball joint side a few mm on the tower? I ask because the damper housing is barely but surely rubbing the battery cover. (Also dremeled out a little cutout for the shaft on the cradle part of the battery cover surround aft of the big foam cradle)

05-08-2010, 08:53 AM	#9 (permalink)
kenchan A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: N/A Posts: 76,801 Drives: N/A Rep Power: 141522	modshack- everything turned out great. thanks again. on the left side my car still had a slight bulge and found that it was rubbing on this thing (red arrow)... hahaha so trimmed the hood bracket by about 4mm. (label says R but it's for the left)

05-08-2010, 11:33 AM	#11 (permalink)
Vegitto-kun A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: USA Posts: 2,011 Drives: 09 370Z Rep Power: 263	So Did you make a DIY yet?

05-08-2010, 03:52 PM	#14 (permalink)
Prosport Gauges Banned Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Tampa Posts: 339 Drives: 2009 370z Rep Power: 0	Nice!! good job

05-08-2010, 04:58 PM	#15 (permalink)
kenchan A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: N/A Posts: 76,801 Drives: N/A Rep Power: 141522	Any bulging on the hatch? jk Nice job!