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I currently run the prosport JDM 52mm with digital and analog readout. It's a relatively simple install but it involved courage on the level of getting shot and pulling the
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#1 (permalink) |
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Track Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Orlando, Florida
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I currently run the prosport JDM 52mm with digital and analog readout. It's a relatively simple install but it involved courage on the level of getting shot and pulling the bullet out on your own then stitching yourself up and your only tools are a bottle of vodka and a Gerber multi tool. This is because I gutted the OEM guages out from the top instead of removing the dash.
Here's a video of the 60mm JDMs I had before. The 52's fit the OEM bezel alot better and I decided to swap back. I've gone through the Tanabe VLS, ProSport Halo and Prosport premiums and the JDMs were where I stuck. https://youtu.be/q9wSIGJcmv0 |
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#2 (permalink) | |
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A True Z Fanatic
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![]() Why would one remove the dash to do the same? Can you hollow out just the OE clock and place an aftermarket gauge there or will doing so screw up the other two?
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Toys Not Tots Last edited by Tractionless; 01-31-2019 at 02:03 PM. |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Track Member
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Drives: 15' Nismo Black 6MT
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That whole unit is actually one piece so if you break into it you're breaking into the whole unit. I used a set of long nose pliers and basically pulled it apart bit by bit. You may be able to just convert one piece but that would'nt have worked for me because I used the harness for the unit as my power and ground on the oil pressure and oil temp. I had to use a separate power source for my Wideband.
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#4 (permalink) | |
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A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Atlantic SE
Posts: 1,363
Drives: '10 K23 ST 7AT
Rep Power: 30527 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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