Their 15lb model looks roughly comparable to Odyssey's PC-680 in just about every respect (roughly similar dimensions, capacities, ratings, etc) based on what little info they give out. They claim a considerably higher "CCA", but it's well known that there's multiple definitions of that term that mfgs play around with to compete with each other. The other figures are very close though, with the slight edge to the Tomioka battery all around. On the other hand the PC-680 is well-proven, easy to buy, and cheaper (check amazon.com).

Both mfgs offer a range of weight tradeoffs of course, but honestly I'd be wary of going any smaller than about where the PC-680 is at, at least with AGM technology batteries (which both of these are). Maybe for dedicated, trailered race car you could go smaller, since you can always jump-start that easily.

Wstar, what all is needed to relocate the battery to the rear, parts wise.
Have a few things I need done this month and might just let Baker handle it.

Travis started the DIY thread, it has his install, my original install, and my re-done install. Between the three lots of parts are mentioned :).

http://www.the370z.com/diy-section-d...tery-relo.html

My first install was a real Home Depot Hackjob, but it worked fine. The second time around I did it right, and included a list for some of the smaller connectors/parts/etc as well:

http://www.the370z.com/diy-section-d...ml#post1370569

Bottom line is: PC-680, some kind of PC-680-compatible hold-down/box, a bunch of 1/0-gauge welding cable, some slit ribbed plastic tubing to go over the cable to prevent nicks, and a lot of labor and small electrical parts :)

This is the box I used: Odyssey battery aluminum hold down

:tup: repped

I've just put WORK RS-R (extended open ended lugs) on with my new wheels, they are crazy light about 25grams per lug, attached is picture of them.

Nice! I have a set in red waiting to go on with my new wheels, I could not believe how light they were when I opened the package, almost feels like they are plastic lol

haha I'm hearing ya man, I was like WTF! super light :O

For the base coupe wheels (18x8 front, 18x9 rear) the lightest weight tires I have found are the Michelin Pilot Sport. This would save 14.2 for the front two and 18.6 for the back two (combined, not each tire) compared to the stock yokohamas.

My friend has the base roadster, same year, and he has bridgestone tires and also different wheels than my coupe. He does not have the sport package.

He appears to have the same calipers. I read that the stock calipers are cast iron. If so, does anyone know the savings to go from stock to aluminum calipers?

I did some research into tire weights a while back and found that continental extreme contact DW were the lightest for a given size that I used.

And they are regarded as providing very good grip and reasonably priced. I think they are really the best option out there from what I've seen.

Has anyone done an A/C delete? Sorry if this has been covered before, kinda scrolled through this thread quick. I know the condenser is attached to the radiator, but I'm sure removing the compressor would save quit a bit of weight.

I looked again and couldn't find it. I remember seeing a post here stating that the air conditioner delete was about 30 pounds.

More importantly getting the AC compressor out of the belt loop is a drag reduction on the engine. If you're killing AC, IMHO may as well kill the whole system while you're at it, get the heater core outta there, all the ductwork and blower stuff under the dash, all the related harness wiring to the BCM and the dash controls, etc. Lots of things to cut out there.

Did someone say carbon headlight covers?
;)
They save about 35+ lbs
The oem units are expensive to replace....I'll post some pics but t won't let me upload from my iPod :(
Dwnshift

You mean some kind of snap-in replacements that are empty shells for racing during the day?

Correct