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Originally Posted by MJB 2800 miles freeway driving is better than stop/go city driving. *And Houston TX to Miami is 1100 miles Totally agree. It is easy on a car.
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#2 (permalink) | |
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I Definitely agree on this one that is why I said to a certain extent. Driving habits and maintenance care definitely plays a big role on any vehicles longevity specially on fluid changes. I wish I can make that trip from FL to CA only if work would allow me 3 to 4 weeks off. Sad. Last edited by Zoren 370; 01-10-2015 at 01:39 PM. |
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#3 (permalink) |
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At minimum:
Complete fluid flush and replace with Motul. And the stainless steel clutch line. My recommendation: slave cylinder elimination kit, Motul, and new master cylinder. The elimination kit cost me around $1200 including installation. I will never have to deal with boiling fluid or csc failures again. So the cost may be high at first, but in long run will save a lot of hassle and inconvenience. and i just saw your pic....that fluid is fried |
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#4 (permalink) | |
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I will say that the under hood temps of these cars is hotter than most especially for the clutch master cylinder and inside the bell housing. Wish Nissan would have left the CSC on the outside of the bell housing like the older cars. Very easy to change. 10min job max.
By the way, just ran out and checked my fluid. It is starting to look crappy again just after 13,000 miles. I will be changing it again soon. |
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#7 (permalink) |
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UGG, Coffee in the CMC. Not good. If this is your DD car, I would go ahead and change the CMC and CSC. I can't tell if you have sludge in it or not it's so bad. Fluid exchange and be prepared to replace it pretty soon.
Most folks say they don't get a warning before the CSC goes out. Yeah they do, this is it. Last edited by Spooler; 01-10-2015 at 03:39 PM. |
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#8 (permalink) | |
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It doesn't seem like sludge, it's just really dirty. I will keep you all updated, I will probably be doing this next weekend. I hope my baby holds up fine until then. I know that for the CSC I will have to take it somewhere, will I have to take it somewhere to also get the CMC switched? Thanks all
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#9 (permalink) |
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Anyone have experience with this? http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003VX...JBHTMEAAD48DGA
Or should I stick to motul?
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#10 (permalink) | |
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#11 (permalink) | |
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In my case the pedal would drop to the floor and stay requiring a manual reset via my foot, initially only once every so often, but with increasing regularity as the days/weeks progressed. I really noticed it after extended drives in which I made use of 5th and 6th gears for a lengthy distance and at higher speeds. Once you move on into 1st, 2nd and 3rd gears it would generally build up pressure a bit more during the early stages of the process. Anyway, the first two times I did not engage maintenance at Nissan dealerships until the clutch failed completely --- which it will, in my opinion, if left alone. Each time they replaced the master and slave cylinders --- and a hose the second time around. This, my third time, they will replace the entire hydraulics system with regards to the clutch (my understanding is that includes all hoses/mater/slave etc.) plus will go with the better fluid used in GTRs which supposedly holds up better to heat. Note: Each of the previous fixes held out for approx one year, so I'm hoping this will be a final fix. I have also thought about adding an aftermarket slave cylinder. Not sure how that would affect the warranty and, truth be told, I'm not quite certain anyone knows exactly why the system is failing but the "fix" has been consistent. I suggest taking it into a dealership and have them reach back to regional tech folks for their insight. I'm sure it's on their radar. As a side note, the dealership maintenance folks will HAVE TO replicate the issue in your vehicle, so be prepared to put them behind the wheel and have them drive it for a distance. I did so with my rep and it failed 10 times after an approx 30 miles drive in 5th gear and then pulling off the highway and down shifting. Additionally, in each case my fluids were checked during the initial "screening" and found to be fine -- or at least not the obvious cause.
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#12 (permalink) |
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That's exactly what I experienced!
I hope they're able to fix your issue for good, I will probably bring it to a dealership if I can't have my problem fixed or relieved after the flush. Have you asked if it is related to the pressure plate or clutch disk?
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If ur csc had failed on u wile driving and u emptied the plastic reserve in most cases the master cylinder also pumped dry, u MUST change both master and slave cylinders. Just throwing it out there.
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#14 (permalink) | |
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I will do the line upgrade later on (hopefully everything runs fine until the summer), when I upgrade clutch/flywheel and have an aftermarket CSC installed or the Z1 elimination kit.
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#15 (permalink) |
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Good luck to you. Since you lost no fluid, maybe you will be OK for a little while. Make sure you suck all of the uck out of the CMC first, add new fluid, then bleed it. You can gravity bleed until it becomes clear. Don't forget to not let the reservoir run empty. If you see any sludge in the bottom of the reservoir, that is a sign of being on borrowed time. You just never know.
Also, double check for the insulation around the clutch line to the CSC. |
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