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Clutch Pedal After Cross Country Trip

Originally Posted by MJB 2800 miles freeway driving is better than stop/go city driving. *And Houston TX to Miami is 1100 miles Totally agree. It is easy on a car.

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Old 01-10-2015, 12:59 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by MJB View Post
2800 miles freeway driving is better than stop/go city driving.

*And Houston TX to Miami is 1100 miles
Totally agree. It is easy on a car. Stop and go is rough. Z's love road trips.
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Old 01-10-2015, 01:35 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by MJB View Post
2800 miles freeway driving is better than stop/go city driving.

*And Houston TX to Miami is 1100 miles
Op did say 2800 round trip drive.
I Definitely agree on this one that is why I said to a certain extent. Driving habits and maintenance care definitely plays a big role on any vehicles longevity specially on fluid changes.

I wish I can make that trip from FL to CA only if work would allow me 3 to 4 weeks off. Sad.
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Old 01-10-2015, 01:52 PM   #3 (permalink)
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At minimum:
Complete fluid flush and replace with Motul. And the stainless steel clutch line.

My recommendation:
slave cylinder elimination kit, Motul, and new master cylinder. The elimination kit cost me around $1200 including installation. I will never have to deal with boiling fluid or csc failures again. So the cost may be high at first, but in long run will save a lot of hassle and inconvenience.


and i just saw your pic....that fluid is fried
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Old 01-10-2015, 01:53 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MJB View Post
2800 miles freeway driving is better than stop/go city driving.

*And Houston TX to Miami is 1100 miles
route i took was 1350 miles per way
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Old 01-10-2015, 01:02 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I will say that the under hood temps of these cars is hotter than most especially for the clutch master cylinder and inside the bell housing. Wish Nissan would have left the CSC on the outside of the bell housing like the older cars. Very easy to change. 10min job max.

By the way, just ran out and checked my fluid. It is starting to look crappy again just after 13,000 miles. I will be changing it again soon.
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Old 01-10-2015, 01:50 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Holy moly
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Old 01-10-2015, 03:36 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Holy moly
UGG, Coffee in the CMC. Not good. If this is your DD car, I would go ahead and change the CMC and CSC. I can't tell if you have sludge in it or not it's so bad. Fluid exchange and be prepared to replace it pretty soon.

Most folks say they don't get a warning before the CSC goes out. Yeah they do, this is it.

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Old 01-10-2015, 04:49 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Spooler View Post
UGG, Coffee in the CMC. Not good. If this is your DD car, I would go ahead and change the CMC and CSC. I can't tell if you have sludge in it or not it's so bad. Fluid exchange and be prepared to replace it pretty soon.

Most folks say they don't get a warning before the CSC goes out. Yeah they do, this is it.
I've only driven the car for 10k miles. It was previously owned by a mechanic, so I'm shocked that he wasn't caring enough to have switched out the fluids.

It doesn't seem like sludge, it's just really dirty. I will keep you all updated, I will probably be doing this next weekend. I hope my baby holds up fine until then.

I know that for the CSC I will have to take it somewhere, will I have to take it somewhere to also get the CMC switched?

Thanks all
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Old 01-10-2015, 05:16 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Anyone have experience with this? http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003VX...JBHTMEAAD48DGA

Or should I stick to motul?
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Old 01-10-2015, 06:33 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Anyone have experience with this? ATE 706202 Original TYP 200 DOT 4 Brake Fluid - 1 Liter:Amazon:Automotive

Or should I stick to motul?
In a pinch, I use the Valvoline Synthetic Dot 3&4.
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Old 01-10-2015, 05:55 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by lfrz93 View Post
How's it going guys! Car currently has a little under 35,000 miles

Luis here with a few questions after a few things I noticed while and after driving to and from Houston, Tx from Miami,Fl.

It was a long 18 hour trip, did both trips in basically one sitting, with 4-6 stops max letting the car rest for maybe 15-30 minutes. After a few hours of cruising, the clutch pedal would feel very very soft. I would throw the car in neutral to roll, and pump the clutch pedal until it got stiff again. I didn't freak out as I did realize I was putting the car in high stress, but I always tracked the temperatures of the oil and motor to make sure everything was fine.

Acceleration seemed fine, shifting was as always, but the clutch pedal would just get very soft until I pumped it a few times.

Am I being a hypochondriac? Is this low fluid? Bad CSC? Bad clutch disc/pressure plate? I've searched quite a bit on the forums, but I didn't come to anything clear enough.

Thanks guys!

PS: I'm looking at that Z1 clutch line but I have never done more than changing my oil/wheels on a car taking DIYs one at a time and slowly.
My 2010 is in the shop for the third time in three years for the very same issue. Apparently, the CSC (and maybe fluid used) has issues. There are numerous examples from folks of this happening, but I suspect not enough for a recall.

In my case the pedal would drop to the floor and stay requiring a manual reset via my foot, initially only once every so often, but with increasing regularity as the days/weeks progressed. I really noticed it after extended drives in which I made use of 5th and 6th gears for a lengthy distance and at higher speeds. Once you move on into 1st, 2nd and 3rd gears it would generally build up pressure a bit more during the early stages of the process.

Anyway, the first two times I did not engage maintenance at Nissan dealerships until the clutch failed completely --- which it will, in my opinion, if left alone. Each time they replaced the master and slave cylinders --- and a hose the second time around.

This, my third time, they will replace the entire hydraulics system with regards to the clutch (my understanding is that includes all hoses/mater/slave etc.) plus will go with the better fluid used in GTRs which supposedly holds up better to heat.

Note: Each of the previous fixes held out for approx one year, so I'm hoping this will be a final fix. I have also thought about adding an aftermarket slave cylinder. Not sure how that would affect the warranty and, truth be told, I'm not quite certain anyone knows exactly why the system is failing but the "fix" has been consistent.

I suggest taking it into a dealership and have them reach back to regional tech folks for their insight. I'm sure it's on their radar.

As a side note, the dealership maintenance folks will HAVE TO replicate the issue in your vehicle, so be prepared to put them behind the wheel and have them drive it for a distance. I did so with my rep and it failed 10 times after an approx 30 miles drive in 5th gear and then pulling off the highway and down shifting. Additionally, in each case my fluids were checked during the initial "screening" and found to be fine -- or at least not the obvious cause.
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Old 01-10-2015, 06:49 PM   #12 (permalink)
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That's exactly what I experienced!

I hope they're able to fix your issue for good, I will probably bring it to a dealership if I can't have my problem fixed or relieved after the flush.

Have you asked if it is related to the pressure plate or clutch disk?
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Old 01-10-2015, 07:55 PM   #13 (permalink)
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If ur csc had failed on u wile driving and u emptied the plastic reserve in most cases the master cylinder also pumped dry, u MUST change both master and slave cylinders. Just throwing it out there.
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Old 01-10-2015, 08:15 PM   #14 (permalink)
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If ur csc had failed on u wile driving and u emptied the plastic reserve in most cases the master cylinder also pumped dry, u MUST change both master and slave cylinders. Just throwing it out there.
I don't believe to have emptied the reserve. I just bought my Motul, should be here Tuesday. I will keep you all updated.


I will do the line upgrade later on (hopefully everything runs fine until the summer), when I upgrade clutch/flywheel and have an aftermarket CSC installed or the Z1 elimination kit.
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Old 01-10-2015, 09:06 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Good luck to you. Since you lost no fluid, maybe you will be OK for a little while. Make sure you suck all of the uck out of the CMC first, add new fluid, then bleed it. You can gravity bleed until it becomes clear. Don't forget to not let the reservoir run empty. If you see any sludge in the bottom of the reservoir, that is a sign of being on borrowed time. You just never know.

Also, double check for the insulation around the clutch line to the CSC.
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