FIXED: Rear axle click clunk noise

Senna-F1

Since I was also doing diff bushings, I had to remove the axels. If you remove them the manual says not to reuse bolts and nuts on the axel and propeller shaft. I used all new hardware and they were covered in red. Some form of loctite I assume. Just FYI.

T-Rex57

Thanks @juld0zer for this fix. Just performed this on my Aussie 2011 370z, clicking is gone at the moment, but I'll report back after some kms travelled.

For other Aussies if you're having trouble sourcing parts (My dealer wouldn't sell me any): Got the Kawasaki Castle Nuts from Partzilla.com for $AU20 delivered

I required two additional spring washers per side (for a total of 6, 2 new and the origina 1 OEM). Part number is #400371CA0A for the spring washers, bought at $3.80 each from Amayama. Bit pricey, but couldn't find many sources.

The new cotter pins part number is #400730L700, I bought 4 of them at $1.72 each also from Amayama (Just as well cos the first pin I bent improperly). Total delivered for the washers and cotter pins was AU$31.08

Other notes: Easy to install even for a ham fisted oaf like myself - I had to tighten to spec, then use a breaker bar to tighten the Kawasaki nut a little bit over to allow the cotter pin to sit correctly

EXL124

So for those of you who brought it to the dealer to have it re-greased, how long did that last before the click came back?

Array

depending on ur issues re-greasing will not fix the issue, it simply muffles the noise. I had to have a few axle parts re-torque & my bushing/subframe replaced until my noise went away, warranty paid

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2012 370z 7AT- ES2 with PSS, K&N Drop-ins, LED's all around, Berk HFC, FI CBE non-res, KW V1's
2003 A4 5MT- The Beater

hotprops

i had the need for a 32mm 6 pt 1/2 inch drive socket for a bike project and a friend suggested i get a 1 1/4 inch impact socket from home depot online delivered to the store for $5 worked great

hotprops

and the proper torque is 140 foot lbs for the non Nissan nut

Senna-F1

Says who?

hotprops

185Nm=140 foot lbs my torque wrench is only indexed in ft lbs

Senna-F1

I know how to convert units of measure. Where are you getting your information from that says the nut requires that amount of torque? If you look at my posts right above yours, same page, you'll see I looked very carefully into what the proper torque rating should be. In the end, I ended up with a screenshot taken at a Nissan Dealership who had access to the Electronic Service Manual last updated Nov 2016.

hotprops

says the op on top of page 8 185 nm

AARONHL

What size threads are on the axle ends?

brianx42

Are the part numbers the same for 2014?

2014:
https://parts.nissanusa.com/nissanpa...7717&siteid=14

2011:
https://parts.nissanusa.com/nissanpa...3432&siteid=14

I can't really spot the difference in parts. If anyone can clarify, that would be great.

2014 parts needed to fix this problem:

Kawasaki Axle Nut Part number (2) 92210-0280
OEM Spring Washer: (2) 43037 & (2) 43037+A
Cotter Pins: (1) 43262A & (1) 43262AA

Are the part numbers correct? One of the guys here mentioned the spring part number is 40037-1CA0A but I can't find this part. I wonder if it was a typo from 40037 to 43037??

AARONHL

I am fairly confident that I fixed the axle clicking issue without the need for a new aftermarket nut or washer. I did the following on my older G35 when I replaced the wheel bearings (because there was a TSB to put moly grease on the axle flange) and never had one axle click with the car. As soon as I got my G37 I noticed the clicking daily.

So today I decided to take the axles out...cleaned up the splines and faces, grease up the axle, hub, and splines. When I put everything back on, I tightened the oem axle nut very tight. I used a steel pipe and breaker bar to really get on the nut. I don't have a ftlbs bar that goes over 75 but I can tell it is way over the FSM setting of like 80lbs, probably somewhere over 120 (did it while the car was on the ground with the wheel center cap off). The axle nuts came off too easy when I took them off the first time.

I took the whip for a quick drive and I didn't hear one click. It was just clicking constantly yesterday so I feel something I did worked !!

I realize most of you guys have newer Zs/Gs and can't touch the car while its under warranty...but maybe you can give it a try?

Here are the pictures: you can get this permatex anti seize at autozone and many other stores. I use it on pretty much ever bolt on my car too
Also the pictures don't show the inner side of the wheel hub, I lathered that up with anti seize too, making sure I got the face of it where the axle rests. And the inside hub splines too.

Attached Images

	IMG_1282.JPG (61.7 KB, 90 views)
	image1.JPG (59.0 KB, 66 views)

axmea?

/\ this is correct. The hubs needs cleaning as well.

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AARONHL

Yes I basically cleaned the whole setup in an out. BOTH sides of the wheel hub and splines, plus the splines and flange on the axle itself. One of the axles had some black grime in the splines so I wire brushed it to clean metal first.

Not sure if this matters or not...the only thing I am thinking about is the oem washer that goes on before the axle nut. I noticed the washers on both sides were not flat, like the hub deformed them. So when I put everything back on each side, the washers were put so they looked like this on the hub []> if that makes sense. To kinda act as like a lock washer that gets crushed and holds the nut. Based on the wear stains on the washers, I think I flipped the washers the opposite way of how they were before I took them off. I don't remember how the washers were on my G35 when I did this year ago with that car.