400 whp on N/A VQ possible?

Elmo370z · 08-05-2015, 10:23 AM

Just a minor update. Just bought a used long block. It's coming together slowly but surely. Now i can build with the motor out of the car.

90 ST · 08-05-2015, 11:00 AM

Without getting to much into this whole debate...LS Swap, would cost less then 10 and would be 500+ NA...just sayin'.

AND someone is just about done doing it, with a kit, by the sounds of it.

Elmo370z · 08-05-2015, 11:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 90 ST

Without getting to much into this whole debate...LS Swap, would cost less then 10 and would be 500+ NA...just sayin'.

AND someone is just about done doing it, with a kit, by the sounds of it.

Lol my buddy keeps trying to get me to do a ls swap. But this motor only cost me 1600 and had 26k miles on it. If i wanted a v-8 i would of bought a car with an v-8. Keeping the Zed the way it suppose to be.

Elmo370z · 08-08-2015, 07:31 PM

Picked up the motor today. Now to start saving

Rusty · 08-08-2015, 09:19 PM

Now the fun and exploded credit card starts.

Elmo370z · 08-08-2015, 10:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rusty

Now the fun and exploded credit card starts.

Im going to take my time. Save where i can lucky i have an mechanic so that will cut alot of cost

Zoren 370 · 08-15-2015, 08:55 AM

Elmo whats with the new engine? Did you blow the previous one?

Elmo370z · 08-16-2015, 12:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zoren 370

Elmo whats with the new engine? Did you blow the previous one?

No, i got a good deal on it. Do i went ahead and bought it.

Jordo! · 08-16-2015, 12:55 PM

What exactly are your build plans? I guess you could try higher CR pistons, but it will have to drink race gas or use WI.

Elmo370z · 08-16-2015, 03:42 PM

Im going to look into options, i still want to keep the car streetable. I want to do the heads before anything, and if the stock block blows up i can just replace it. If the stock block holds up for a period of time, ill just send the block of to get it built for high revs.

Elmo370z · 08-17-2015, 10:31 AM

I just don't want to start buying parts. Ill do my research before i start unloading the bank account

jcosta79 · 08-17-2015, 12:34 PM

Well it looks like you're serious about this...

You're going to have to replace all the internals, that's a given. So get together with your mechanic buddy and start figuring out what you can afford. Off the top of my head you will need:

High compression pistons
Lightweight/knife edged crank / possibly more stroke if you can't get enough volume via boring
Custom grind camshafts with upgraded valvetrain
Forged rods
Fuel system & Injectors
Boring the cylinders / sleeves
Custom Intake or ITB's

This is actually a really neat project and I hope you go through with it.

GOOD LUCK!

Elmo370z · 08-18-2015, 12:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jcosta79

Well it looks like you're serious about this...

You're going to have to replace all the internals, that's a given. So get together with your mechanic buddy and start figuring out what you can afford. Off the top of my head you will need:

High compression pistons
Lightweight/knife edged crank / possibly more stroke if you can't get enough volume via boring
Custom grind camshafts with upgraded valvetrain
Forged rods
Fuel system & Injectors
Boring the cylinders / sleeves
Custom Intake or ITB's

This is actually a really neat project and I hope you go through with it.

GOOD LUCK!

Yeah finding the parts is the hard part. The bottom end is going to be stock. Im going to do heads, jun cam, valve train upgrade, ati damper, and nismo oil pump ( unless something better is available). Then see where i can go from there. From what I've seen from one a fellow on n here and the car is still running, the motor can handle up to 8,300 rpms before the springs run out and 8500 rpms until our block goes to shed. Longevity ahhh who knows. But i have a spare block.

BGTV8 · 08-18-2015, 02:34 AM

Elmo, finding parts is easy ...........

Talk to JWT
1. Crank from Bryant Racing (OEM stroke)
2. GA rods and pistons from JWT (12:1)
3. JUN cams and OEM VVEL, or GA HR head conversion
4. ATI damper, or you can use the Ross Performance from down under
5. Wet sump with external pressure stage - requires some plumbing inside the sump and delete OEM oil pump
OR
Daily Engineering Dry-Sump
OR
Omega Tech dry-sump (I'm the guinea pig)
OR NISMO oil pump BUT Doran Racing will tell you it is not a perfect solution but "should" be OK for street/"fast road" engine
6. You cannot go wrong with valve train from Kyle at ImportPartsPro OR JWT retainer/spring package
7. ITB/induction - I hope to have HR-head x-over mani in my hands this month - but this probably will not suit VHR heads
8. Beware OEM crank as Doran will tell you that they crack after a few meetings (so figure ~10 hours race running) - it might be OK for a fast streeter - depends on time spent at big revs

Elmo370z · 08-18-2015, 09:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BGTV8

Elmo, finding parts is easy ...........

Talk to JWT
1. Crank from Bryant Racing (OEM stroke)
2. GA rods and pistons from JWT (12:1)
3. JUN cams and OEM VVEL, or GA HR head conversion
4. ATI damper, or you can use the Ross Performance from down under
5. Wet sump with external pressure stage - requires some plumbing inside the sump and delete OEM oil pump
OR
Daily Engineering Dry-Sump
OR
Omega Tech dry-sump (I'm the guinea pig)
OR NISMO oil pump BUT Doran Racing will tell you it is not a perfect solution but "should" be OK for street/"fast road" engine
6. You cannot go wrong with valve train from Kyle at ImportPartsPro OR JWT retainer/spring package
7. ITB/induction - I hope to have HR-head x-over mani in my hands this month - but this probably will not suit VHR heads
8. Beware OEM crank as Doran will tell you that they crack after a few meetings (so figure ~10 hours race running) - it might be OK for a fast streeter - depends on time spent at big revs

Awesome, im at work at the moment, but I'll be giving b these guys a call sometime this week to start putting a game plan together. I'm not doing a Hr head swap, you know anything about an valvetrain upgrade for vvel heads? What's the omega dry sump run you?

08-05-2015, 10:23 AM	#1 (permalink)
Elmo370z A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: st. petersburg Posts: 5,727 Drives: 09 nissan 370z Sp M6 Rep Power: 295379	Just a minor update. Just bought a used long block. It's coming together slowly but surely. Now i can build with the motor out of the car. carlitos_370z likes this.

08-05-2015, 11:00 AM	#2 (permalink)
90 ST A True Z Fanatic Join Date: May 2010 Location: Calgary Posts: 1,861 Drives: 90 and 15 GMC Sierra Rep Power: 422	Without getting to much into this whole debate...LS Swap, would cost less then 10 and would be 500+ NA...just sayin'. AND someone is just about done doing it, with a kit, by the sounds of it. gbrettin likes this.

08-08-2015, 09:19 PM	#5 (permalink)
Rusty Ronin Samurai - Assassin Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Fayettenam,Pennsyltucky Age: 69 Posts: 35,502 Drives: 2011 Nismo GM 6M Rep Power: 2684439	Now the fun and exploded credit card starts. Memphis370Z and jchammond like this. __________________ 浪人 - 殺し屋 "The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only" http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html

08-16-2015, 12:55 PM	#9 (permalink)
Jordo! A True Z Fanatic Join Date: May 2010 Location: nirvana Posts: 6,394 Drives: 2023 NATM Rep Power: 419	What exactly are your build plans? I guess you could try higher CR pistons, but it will have to drink race gas or use WI. __________________ Enjoy it. Destroy it.

08-17-2015, 12:34 PM	#12 (permalink)
jcosta79 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: N/A Posts: 1,430 Drives: N/A Rep Power: 16	Well it looks like you're serious about this... You're going to have to replace all the internals, that's a given. So get together with your mechanic buddy and start figuring out what you can afford. Off the top of my head you will need: High compression pistons Lightweight/knife edged crank / possibly more stroke if you can't get enough volume via boring Custom grind camshafts with upgraded valvetrain Forged rods Fuel system & Injectors Boring the cylinders / sleeves Custom Intake or ITB's This is actually a really neat project and I hope you go through with it. GOOD LUCK! carlitos_370z likes this. __________________ 2012 PW NISMO #0559 - GT Spec Brace Kit - Swift Springs - ARK TP & Invidia CBE K&N Intake - UpRev Tune - 15mm Z1 Spacers & Studs - StopTech Slotted Rotors & SS Lines - ZSpeed CMAK with Stage 2 Clutch and Lightweight Flywheel

08-15-2015, 08:55 AM	#7 (permalink)
Zoren 370 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: FL Posts: 11,018 Drives: 11 Nissan 370 M6 Rep Power: 1913654	Elmo whats with the new engine? Did you blow the previous one?

08-16-2015, 03:42 PM	#10 (permalink)
Elmo370z A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: st. petersburg Posts: 5,727 Drives: 09 nissan 370z Sp M6 Rep Power: 295379	Im going to look into options, i still want to keep the car streetable. I want to do the heads before anything, and if the stock block blows up i can just replace it. If the stock block holds up for a period of time, ill just send the block of to get it built for high revs.

08-17-2015, 10:31 AM	#11 (permalink)
Elmo370z A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: st. petersburg Posts: 5,727 Drives: 09 nissan 370z Sp M6 Rep Power: 295379	I just don't want to start buying parts. Ill do my research before i start unloading the bank account

08-18-2015, 02:34 AM	#14 (permalink)
BGTV8 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: 03350 Australia Posts: 1,516 Drives: 09 Nissan 370Z M6 Rep Power: 39974	Elmo, finding parts is easy ........... Talk to JWT 1. Crank from Bryant Racing (OEM stroke) 2. GA rods and pistons from JWT (12:1) 3. JUN cams and OEM VVEL, or GA HR head conversion 4. ATI damper, or you can use the Ross Performance from down under 5. Wet sump with external pressure stage - requires some plumbing inside the sump and delete OEM oil pump OR Daily Engineering Dry-Sump OR Omega Tech dry-sump (I'm the guinea pig) OR NISMO oil pump BUT Doran Racing will tell you it is not a perfect solution but "should" be OK for street/"fast road" engine 6. You cannot go wrong with valve train from Kyle at ImportPartsPro OR JWT retainer/spring package 7. ITB/induction - I hope to have HR-head x-over mani in my hands this month - but this probably will not suit VHR heads 8. Beware OEM crank as Doran will tell you that they crack after a few meetings (so figure ~10 hours race running) - it might be OK for a fast streeter - depends on time spent at big revs Rusty likes this. Last edited by BGTV8; 08-18-2015 at 03:22 AM.

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Email this Page
Display Modes
Switch to Linear Mode Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode