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I took my car up to Advanced Auto and had them test the battery. The battery has 313 cold cranking amps per what his machine said. I did a quick
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#1 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Portage, MI
Posts: 2,304
Drives: Tricycle
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I took my car up to Advanced Auto and had them test the battery. The battery has 313 cold cranking amps per what his machine said. I did a quick google search and the battery should be at 650.
Earlier today the temp was about 32 -35 degrees. It's now 65 degrees and the car is no longer dropping off time to time. Maybe it's time for a new lightweight battery? .... just remembered something.... I should check the water level in the battery.... bbiab |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Base Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 21
Drives: 2011 Nissan 370Z M6
Rep Power: 15 ![]() |
Had the same RPM dip together with slight batter voltage drop when rolling to a stop at neutral (idle drops from 650ish to almost 500 RPM) (mine is 6MT). After a month's trail and error I finally fixed it. Since my cause is different than the original post's, so i though of sharing it.
The RPM drop happened about 3 out of 10 times back when my car was completely stock, but I didn't bother to fix it. Then the problem worsen after I replaced the stock intake to Stillen G3 CAI. It happens almost 90% of the time and I finally decided not to be lazy and treat her right. Thanks to Z family's posts I listed the potential causes and rearranged them in the order of least to most workload: 1) Gas: I used to getting gas from Costco. So I switched to Chevron. Nothing changed after 2 full tanks. 2) MAF sensor: cleaned it throughly and still nothing changed. 3) ECU reset: I thought the RPM drop might be caused by not resetting ECU properly during my install. But i don't want to go thought the hassle to reset power window, radio, service reminder... list goes on. To avoid all that, this is what I did. Most people have seen the crazy "cheat code" and here is one example: ECU reset (post #6 by cdoxp800). Tried it but still nothing changed. 4) Throttle body: I was trying my best to avoid this since my CAI requires me to take the front bumper off (yea, once again being lazy). But with options running low I ended up cleaning the throttle body. I used this as my guide: DIY Clean your Throttle Bodies - MyG37 I was surprised how dirty mine are for the millage I have (45K miles). Got lucky and problem fixed!!! Now is day 3 since the fix and haven't had RPM dip with or w/o AC on. 5) O2 sensor or MAP sensor: luckily I got my problem fixed by #4. Otherwise I would of gone through the hassle to put the stock on and take it to the dealer hoping whatever they can find will be covered by warranty.
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2011 370Z, 6MT, Sport Pkg | 20mm Front & 25mm Rear Spacers | Stillen G3 Cold Air Intake | Fast Intentions yet to be installed TDX Cat Back Exhaust with 18" Resonator |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Base Member
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 126
Drives: 2008 G37S 6MT
Rep Power: 12 ![]() |
I've got the g37s, and I was having a similar problem, battery just changed. Try using seafoam for your fuel injectors and vacuum system, as well as cleaning out your upper intake manifold.
My car runs like new again. |
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#5 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
![]() Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: SoCal
Posts: 14,824
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My battery is brand new, and worse comes to worse I have an even newer OEM battery
No tune either. I'll try the TB thing this weekend. Can I drench the TBs in cleaner?
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#7 (permalink) | |
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A True Z Fanatic
![]() Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: SoCal
Posts: 14,824
Drives: a lot
Rep Power: 17153 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Quote:
Don't know how much I need to take off though.
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#8 (permalink) | |
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A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Washington
Posts: 1,252
Drives: 09' 370z 7AT
Rep Power: 17 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Quote:
did this a ways back. it was always in drive at idle accompanied by a voltage drop. problem solved.
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Quaife w/ gears |Stillen Gen 3|SOLD FI Resonated Test Pipes |SOLD FI 18'' | 25row Stillen Race | Progress 35mm/25mm sways | Swifts/Koni|Volk G25's| Stoptech SS lines||SPL Front/Rear Arms| |
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#9 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Portage, MI
Posts: 2,304
Drives: Tricycle
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I just got back from my brother's place and talked to him about it. He said it's probably dirty TB's. He pretty much repeated verbatim what Critical said.
1.)Take the TB's off 2.) Spray a micro fiber rag with TB cleaner 3.) Wipe it clean. |
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#13 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: May 2010
Location: nirvana
Posts: 6,394
Drives: 2023 NATM
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It's quite possibly the battery.
Failing that search for an intermittent vacuum leak -- the unmetered air will cause you to skew lean at idle; ECU will compensate with high positive fuel trim, run rich, and dip a bit as it attempts to work around the leak. So much of the throttle on this car is done with VVEL, I doubt cleaning the TB's will fix. Probably not it.
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Enjoy it. Destroy it. |
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#14 (permalink) |
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Base Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Puerto Rico
Posts: 17
Drives: 09 Nissan 370z m6
Rep Power: 13 ![]() |
I have that same problem then it started to turn on the oil light at the same time and then about 2 sec goes back to normal yesterday i bought a battery thinking it was it and nope it continue to do it. But the oil light did it when i changed my oil and theres no leaks i checked the dip and it was fine. I am loosing my mind help people!!!
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#15 (permalink) | |
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A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: May 2010
Location: nirvana
Posts: 6,394
Drives: 2023 NATM
Rep Power: 420 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Quote:
On that note: Do you have an oil cooler, either OEM or aftermarket?
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Enjoy it. Destroy it. Last edited by Jordo!; 12-01-2014 at 05:12 PM. |
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