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4.08 gears and Lightened Flywheel

I don't really see alot of talk on this mod. I found a few older threads 2009-2011.... Whats the verdict on this one? Any long term issue's? Ample performance gains?

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Old 04-01-2014, 12:00 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default 4.08 gears and Lightened Flywheel

I don't really see alot of talk on this mod. I found a few older threads 2009-2011.... Whats the verdict on this one?

Any long term issue's? Ample performance gains? I'd like to get as much feedback as possible on this.

Also the lightened flywheel I hear is a big improvement if you are already in there to do a clutch (Do we have a poor clutch life?).
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Old 04-01-2014, 12:03 PM   #2 (permalink)
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The clutch is fine if you don't drive like a dumbass or throw a lot of power at it. The flywheel is a great upgrade, but a light flywheel usually makes a lot of noise and makes the car a little tougher to drive.
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Old 04-01-2014, 12:16 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Roddy1 View Post
I don't really see alot of talk on this mod. I found a few older threads 2009-2011.... Whats the verdict on this one?

Any long term issue's? Ample performance gains? I'd like to get as much feedback as possible on this.

Also the lightened flywheel I hear is a big improvement if you are already in there to do a clutch (Do we have a poor clutch life?).
You'll spend more on labor to swap the flywheel than it would cost to upgrade the clutch too. Go ahead and do it while you're in there just don't go overboard with setup if you never intend to go FI. You buy the biggest clutch you can find you are going to hate yourself driving it around.

I upgraded my clutch a month prior to turbo build and I can definitely tell you there is no way I would volunteer to drive this clutch if it wasn't necessary.
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Old 04-01-2014, 12:17 PM   #4 (permalink)
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If you're in there, get rid of the OEM CSC as well.
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Old 04-01-2014, 12:22 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Chuck33079 View Post
If you're in there, get rid of the OEM CSC as well.
Good catch. Of course than that leads to go ahead and replace the OEM CMC too since they appear to be one use items.
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Old 04-01-2014, 12:23 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Good catch. Of course than that leads to go ahead and replace the OEM CMC too since they appear to be one use items.
And this is the definition of slippery slope. Well since I'm in there...
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Old 04-01-2014, 12:24 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by jwick View Post
You'll spend more on labor to swap the flywheel than it would cost to upgrade the clutch too. Go ahead and do it while you're in there just don't go overboard with setup if you never intend to go FI. You buy the biggest clutch you can find you are going to hate yourself driving it around.

I upgraded my clutch a month prior to turbo build and I can definitely tell you there is no way I would volunteer to drive this clutch if it wasn't necessary.
Which clutch?
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Old 04-01-2014, 12:34 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Arrvaxx View Post
Which clutch?
Went with the Z1 full face lightweight combo. It's reasonable except it sucks in traffic. I've driven worse but I would probably have to say it is at least 3-4x stiffer than stock with the help spring removed.

I'm ok with it considering I have to run it to hold power but I wouldn't if I was NA.
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Old 04-01-2014, 12:37 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by jwick View Post
Went with the Z1 full face lightweight combo. It's reasonable except it sucks in traffic. I've driven worse but I would probably have to say it is at least 3-4x stiffer than stock with the help spring removed.

I'm ok with it considering I have to run it to hold power but I wouldn't if I was NA.
Interesting. I'm going with the same to go with my F.I. twin install. I have the helper spring which made a huge difference on the stock setup. Think I should remove it after the new clutch and fly?
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Old 04-01-2014, 12:46 PM   #10 (permalink)
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soooo my clutch was slipping a bit at 70k miles and my csc blew so i decided to do it all in one shabang. I went with Comp Clutch clutch and light weight flywheel combo. I got it dynoed afterwards and there was no noticeable performance gain. You hear alot of talk from peoples butt dynos but those are the must unreliable and uncalibrated pieces of equipment. Flywheels have a little weight on them for a reason I was more or less just curious enough to do the swap. If i ever unbolt the tranny again I will be going back to the OEM flywheel. I ran at the strip with a buddy of mine too after the swap and we were both right around the same numbers in the 1/8 mile no big differences. Save your self the money IMO.
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Old 04-01-2014, 12:48 PM   #11 (permalink)
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soooo my clutch was slipping a bit at 70k miles and my csc blew so i decided to do it all in one shabang. I went with Comp Clutch clutch and light weight flywheel combo. I got it dynoed afterwards and there was no noticeable performance gain. You hear alot of talk from peoples butt dynos but those are the must unreliable and uncalibrated pieces of equipment. Flywheels have a little weight on them for a reason I was more or less just curious enough to do the swap. If i ever unbolt the tranny again I will be going back to the OEM flywheel. I ran at the strip with a buddy of mine too after the swap and we were both right around the same numbers in the 1/8 mile no big differences. Save your self the money IMO.
The flywheel isn't anything that will show up on the dyno or at the strip. It'll be a throttle response mod. Mine made a huge difference on throttle response at the cost of much noise. The weight is for noise control and to make it easier to drive.
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Old 04-01-2014, 12:50 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Chuck33079 View Post
The flywheel isn't anything that will show up on the dyno or at the strip. It'll be a throttle response mod. Mine made a huge difference on throttle response at the cost of much noise. The weight is for noise control and to make it easier to drive.
Why does weight affect noise? That's unexpected.
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Old 04-01-2014, 12:51 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Arrvaxx View Post
Why does weight affect noise? That's unexpected.
Single piece flywheels rattle more than dual mass. The weight acts as a damper.
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Old 04-01-2014, 12:54 PM   #14 (permalink)
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So back to the OP. I wouldn't have replaced my clutch, CSC, and flywheel if I wasn't going FI. I would have waited for the CSC to go out and spent the money on other things.

Can someone answer his question about the gears?
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Old 04-01-2014, 12:58 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arrvaxx View Post
Interesting. I'm going with the same to go with my F.I. twin install. I have the helper spring which made a huge difference on the stock setup. Think I should remove it after the new clutch and fly?
If you are used to driving with the spring in, then leave it in. I assume it'll help a little with peddle stiffnes.

I highly recommend the clutch. You definitely feel the differences with the ligthen flywheel. Revs much faster and throttle response is awesome. Like Chuck says, it's really noisy but you get used to it. When you drive off and your Z suddently sounds like a F250 diesel, don't be alarmed.

As for engagement. The Z1 clutch is slightly lower than the stock engagement point but it has a good window. I've driven some aftermarket clutches that were on/off switches, this one is nothing like that.
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