OEM oil cooler removal with aftermarket?

synolimit · 12-26-2013, 07:04 PM

Finishing my 48 row oil cooler. How many of you 12+ removed the OEM oil cooler when installing the aftermarket one? The poll is to see who's done it and is it a good idea or not?

L33T Z34 · 12-27-2013, 09:06 PM

I would remove that POS and the coolant lines. Revert back to -'11 coolant lines and then add a nice aftermarket front mount oil cooler.
Now this is easier said than dun. LOL! Accessing those '12+ coolant lines and replacing w/the non water coolant lines will be a PITA. Plus probably over $200 in OEM parts if bought new! Let me know if you need a complete parts break down list if choosing to replace w/ -'11 lines.

synolimit · 12-28-2013, 03:29 AM

Why not just loop the in and out together after the coolers out? I pulled all my TB hoses and just used the long one to loop the beginning to the end since everything was in a line.

SPOHN · 12-28-2013, 03:53 PM

Remove it. It really doesn't work well and it's just another thing to deal with. Go simple.

synolimit · 12-28-2013, 04:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SPOHN

Remove it. It really doesn't work well and it's just another thing to deal with. Go simple.

Plus weight. Right spoon

?

DR_ · 12-28-2013, 08:51 PM

Keep it. It brings the oil up to temp faster.

Nissanboy · 12-28-2013, 09:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DR_

Keep it. It brings the oil up to temp faster.

synolimit · 12-28-2013, 09:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DR_

Keep it. It brings the oil up to temp faster.

Would this be a real benefit if you have time?

DR_ · 12-29-2013, 10:55 AM

The oil doesn't heat much unless you have a load.

From Mocal website

Prolonged use of a car engine in conditions where the oil cannot reach its correct working temperature will cause sludge formation and crankcase oil dilution, leading to excessive wear especially in the cylinder bores. Optimum engine power will only be delivered at correct temperatures. The elimination of drag in engines caused by cold oil is a most important consideration, especially with a racing engine, revving the engine without a load will not put much heat into the oil and devices for preheating the oil may not be available.

It is therefore desirable to control of the oil flow through the cooler by a thermostatic device, we call an oilstat, set to divert oil to the cooler at 80ºC (although a wide range of settings is available for special applications). This is the minimum temperature required to evaporate and dispel contaminating substances.

DLo · 12-29-2013, 01:26 PM

I left it in place and installed over it. I felt pulling all the coolant lines, etc wasn't worth the possible benefits. My Z1 34 row oil cooler works like a charm on street and track. I think I have some pics of the oil lines if you need some ideas.

Tigger · 01-23-2014, 09:36 AM

I'll throw my two cents in on this right quick even though it is a slightly old topic it may help others.

First. The stock 12+ MY oil cooler works fine. I have beaten my 370 down and even in summer temps it never went past 230.

Second. And I've spoken with the dealer regarding a retro-fit of the stock oil cooler assembly on a pre-12 MY 370 and the cost was pushing $900 just for parts. And the complexity of installing it is a bit over the top since you would need to drop the motor. Yes. You need to drop the motor.

Third. I had a 25R GTM oil cooler installed on top of the stock oil cooler and ran into over-cooling issues. It was subsequently removed within two weeks. Oil temps are back to ideal. (The needle on the dash isn't exactly what your oil temps really are but we should all know this by now)

Not to mention the holes you get to cut and the minor modifications to the mount to fit the cooler, rubbing issues with lines, extra hardware to fall apart on you. And the best part? If this thing fails and your motor goes you get to foot the bill on a replacement motor if it is under warranty.

Given that little tidbit... Why even bother with it? If it is under warranty and you don't go into limp mode (as you shouldn't), why try to overdo it? It is a waste of money and in the end can be more detrimental by causing sludge formation due to moisture in the oil not burning off because it isn't getting hot enough.

Anyhow... Those are my thoughts after having been through this already. Take it or leave it. Good luck!

XwChriswX · 01-23-2014, 09:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tigger

I'll throw my two cents in on this right quick even though it is a slightly old topic it may help others.

First. The stock 12+ MY oil cooler works fine. I have beaten my 370 down and even in summer temps it never went past 230.

Second. And I've spoken with the dealer regarding a retro-fit of the stock oil cooler assembly on a pre-12 MY 370 and the cost was pushing $900 just for parts. And the complexity of installing it is a bit over the top since you would need to drop the motor. Yes. You need to drop the motor.

Third. I had a 25R GTM oil cooler installed on top of the stock oil cooler and ran into over-cooling issues. It was subsequently removed within two weeks. Oil temps are back to ideal. (The needle on the dash isn't exactly what your oil temps really are but we should all know this by now)

Not to mention the holes you get to cut and the minor modifications to the mount to fit the cooler, rubbing issues with lines, extra hardware to fall apart on you. And the best part? If this thing fails and your motor goes you get to foot the bill on a replacement motor if it is under warranty.

Given that little tidbit... Why even bother with it? If it is under warranty and you don't go into limp mode (as you shouldn't), why try to overdo it? It is a waste of money and in the end can be more detrimental by causing sludge formation due to moisture in the oil not burning off because it isn't getting hot enough.

Anyhow... Those are my thoughts after having been through this already. Take it or leave it. Good luck!

Does it read higher or lower than actual engine oil temps?

Or better worded... does it read oil going into a cooler's temp, or oil going into the motor's temp?

takjak2 · 01-23-2014, 04:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by XwChriswX

Does it read higher or lower than actual engine oil temps?

Or better worded... does it read oil going into a cooler's temp, or oil going into the motor's temp?

It reads coming out of the cooler and filter, going in to the engine. On average 20 degrees low

XwChriswX · 01-23-2014, 04:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by takjak2

It reads coming out of the cooler and filter, going in to the engine. On average 20 degrees low

Ok good.

Mine, even with the cooler blocked off usually never gets far past 160* unless it's stop and go traffic. I feel a bit better if it's reading low.

synolimit · 01-23-2014, 06:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tigger

I'll throw my two cents in on this right quick even though it is a slightly old topic it may help others.

First. The stock 12+ MY oil cooler works fine. I have beaten my 370 down and even in summer temps it never went past 230.

Second. And I've spoken with the dealer regarding a retro-fit of the stock oil cooler assembly on a pre-12 MY 370 and the cost was pushing $900 just for parts. And the complexity of installing it is a bit over the top since you would need to drop the motor. Yes. You need to drop the motor.

Third. I had a 25R GTM oil cooler installed on top of the stock oil cooler and ran into over-cooling issues. It was subsequently removed within two weeks. Oil temps are back to ideal. (The needle on the dash isn't exactly what your oil temps really are but we should all know this by now)

Not to mention the holes you get to cut and the minor modifications to the mount to fit the cooler, rubbing issues with lines, extra hardware to fall apart on you. And the best part? If this thing fails and your motor goes you get to foot the bill on a replacement motor if it is under warranty.

Given that little tidbit... Why even bother with it? If it is under warranty and you don't go into limp mode (as you shouldn't), why try to overdo it? It is a waste of money and in the end can be more detrimental by causing sludge formation due to moisture in the oil not burning off because it isn't getting hot enough.

Anyhow... Those are my thoughts after having been through this already. Take it or leave it. Good luck!

Holy **** so much fail I don't even know where to begin.

View Poll Results: OEM oil cooler remove?
Remove OEM oil cooler is a good idea. More room, less weight.	19	47.50%
Leave it with the aftermarket cooler for better results.	21	52.50%
Voters: 40. You may not vote on this poll

12-26-2013, 07:04 PM	#1 (permalink)
synolimit A True Z Fanatic Join Date: May 2013 Location: Columbus, OH Posts: 5,051 Drives: 2013 Silver 370z Rep Power: 3388	OEM oil cooler removal with aftermarket? Finishing my 48 row oil cooler. How many of you 12+ removed the OEM oil cooler when installing the aftermarket one? The poll is to see who's done it and is it a good idea or not? __________________ 13 370z-

12-27-2013, 09:06 PM	#2 (permalink)
L33T Z34 Banned Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Ahnald, MO Age: 46 Posts: 387 Drives: 09 K51 G C Bw/S 6MT Rep Power: 0	I would remove that POS and the coolant lines. Revert back to -'11 coolant lines and then add a nice aftermarket front mount oil cooler. Now this is easier said than dun. LOL! Accessing those '12+ coolant lines and replacing w/the non water coolant lines will be a PITA. Plus probably over $200 in OEM parts if bought new! Let me know if you need a complete parts break down list if choosing to replace w/ -'11 lines. Chuck33079 likes this.

12-28-2013, 03:29 AM	#3 (permalink)
synolimit A True Z Fanatic Join Date: May 2013 Location: Columbus, OH Posts: 5,051 Drives: 2013 Silver 370z Rep Power: 3388	Why not just loop the in and out together after the coolers out? I pulled all my TB hoses and just used the long one to loop the beginning to the end since everything was in a line. __________________ 13 370z-

12-28-2013, 03:53 PM	#4 (permalink)
SPOHN A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Covington, GA Age: 45 Posts: 14,844 Drives: Waiting on next Z Rep Power: 221	Remove it. It really doesn't work well and it's just another thing to deal with. Go simple. __________________

12-28-2013, 08:51 PM	#6 (permalink)
DR_ Track Member Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Dallas Posts: 981 Drives: Touring/Sport M6 PG Rep Power: 16	Keep it. It brings the oil up to temp faster. phunk, 09nismo498, Nissanboy and 1 others like this.

12-29-2013, 10:55 AM	#9 (permalink)
DR_ Track Member Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Dallas Posts: 981 Drives: Touring/Sport M6 PG Rep Power: 16	The oil doesn't heat much unless you have a load. From Mocal website Prolonged use of a car engine in conditions where the oil cannot reach its correct working temperature will cause sludge formation and crankcase oil dilution, leading to excessive wear especially in the cylinder bores. Optimum engine power will only be delivered at correct temperatures. The elimination of drag in engines caused by cold oil is a most important consideration, especially with a racing engine, revving the engine without a load will not put much heat into the oil and devices for preheating the oil may not be available. It is therefore desirable to control of the oil flow through the cooler by a thermostatic device, we call an oilstat, set to divert oil to the cooler at 80ºC (although a wide range of settings is available for special applications). This is the minimum temperature required to evaporate and dispel contaminating substances.

12-29-2013, 01:26 PM	#10 (permalink)
DLo Base Member Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: SoCal - South Bay Posts: 244 Drives: 2012 370Z NISMO GM Rep Power: 12	I left it in place and installed over it. I felt pulling all the coolant lines, etc wasn't worth the possible benefits. My Z1 34 row oil cooler works like a charm on street and track. I think I have some pics of the oil lines if you need some ideas. __________________ 2012 NISMO #294 Gunmetal Metallic - Stock

01-23-2014, 09:36 AM	#11 (permalink)
Tigger A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2013 Location: NM Posts: 8,063 Drives: Awedeeeeee Rep Power: 602	I'll throw my two cents in on this right quick even though it is a slightly old topic it may help others. First. The stock 12+ MY oil cooler works fine. I have beaten my 370 down and even in summer temps it never went past 230. Second. And I've spoken with the dealer regarding a retro-fit of the stock oil cooler assembly on a pre-12 MY 370 and the cost was pushing $900 just for parts. And the complexity of installing it is a bit over the top since you would need to drop the motor. Yes. You need to drop the motor. Third. I had a 25R GTM oil cooler installed on top of the stock oil cooler and ran into over-cooling issues. It was subsequently removed within two weeks. Oil temps are back to ideal. (The needle on the dash isn't exactly what your oil temps really are but we should all know this by now) Not to mention the holes you get to cut and the minor modifications to the mount to fit the cooler, rubbing issues with lines, extra hardware to fall apart on you. And the best part? If this thing fails and your motor goes you get to foot the bill on a replacement motor if it is under warranty. Given that little tidbit... Why even bother with it? If it is under warranty and you don't go into limp mode (as you shouldn't), why try to overdo it? It is a waste of money and in the end can be more detrimental by causing sludge formation due to moisture in the oil not burning off because it isn't getting hot enough. Anyhow... Those are my thoughts after having been through this already. Take it or leave it. Good luck! Jordo! and Davey like this.

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