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-   -   OEM oil cooler removal with aftermarket? (http://www.the370z.com/engine-drivetrain/83994-oem-oil-cooler-removal-aftermarket.html)

synolimit 12-26-2013 07:04 PM

OEM oil cooler removal with aftermarket?
 
Finishing my 48 row oil cooler. How many of you 12+ removed the OEM oil cooler when installing the aftermarket one? The poll is to see who's done it and is it a good idea or not?

L33T Z34 12-27-2013 09:06 PM

I would remove that POS and the coolant lines. Revert back to -'11 coolant lines and then add a nice aftermarket front mount oil cooler.
Now this is easier said than dun. LOL! Accessing those '12+ coolant lines and replacing w/the non water coolant lines will be a PITA. Plus probably over $200 in OEM parts if bought new! Let me know if you need a complete parts break down list if choosing to replace w/ -'11 lines.

synolimit 12-28-2013 03:29 AM

Why not just loop the in and out together after the coolers out? I pulled all my TB hoses and just used the long one to loop the beginning to the end since everything was in a line.

SPOHN 12-28-2013 03:53 PM

Remove it. It really doesn't work well and it's just another thing to deal with. Go simple.

synolimit 12-28-2013 04:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SPOHN (Post 2628278)
Remove it. It really doesn't work well and it's just another thing to deal with. Go simple.

Plus weight. Right spoon ;)?

DR_ 12-28-2013 08:51 PM

Keep it. It brings the oil up to temp faster.

Nissanboy 12-28-2013 09:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DR_ (Post 2628519)
Keep it. It brings the oil up to temp faster.

:iagree:

synolimit 12-28-2013 09:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DR_ (Post 2628519)
Keep it. It brings the oil up to temp faster.

Would this be a real benefit if you have time?

DR_ 12-29-2013 10:55 AM

The oil doesn't heat much unless you have a load.

From Mocal website

Prolonged use of a car engine in conditions where the oil cannot reach its correct working temperature will cause sludge formation and crankcase oil dilution, leading to excessive wear especially in the cylinder bores. Optimum engine power will only be delivered at correct temperatures. The elimination of drag in engines caused by cold oil is a most important consideration, especially with a racing engine, revving the engine without a load will not put much heat into the oil and devices for preheating the oil may not be available.

It is therefore desirable to control of the oil flow through the cooler by a thermostatic device, we call an oilstat, set to divert oil to the cooler at 80ºC (although a wide range of settings is available for special applications). This is the minimum temperature required to evaporate and dispel contaminating substances.

DLo 12-29-2013 01:26 PM

I left it in place and installed over it. I felt pulling all the coolant lines, etc wasn't worth the possible benefits. My Z1 34 row oil cooler works like a charm on street and track. I think I have some pics of the oil lines if you need some ideas.

Tigger 01-23-2014 09:36 AM

I'll throw my two cents in on this right quick even though it is a slightly old topic it may help others.

First. The stock 12+ MY oil cooler works fine. I have beaten my 370 down and even in summer temps it never went past 230.

Second. And I've spoken with the dealer regarding a retro-fit of the stock oil cooler assembly on a pre-12 MY 370 and the cost was pushing $900 just for parts. And the complexity of installing it is a bit over the top since you would need to drop the motor. Yes. You need to drop the motor.

Third. I had a 25R GTM oil cooler installed on top of the stock oil cooler and ran into over-cooling issues. It was subsequently removed within two weeks. Oil temps are back to ideal. (The needle on the dash isn't exactly what your oil temps really are but we should all know this by now)

Not to mention the holes you get to cut and the minor modifications to the mount to fit the cooler, rubbing issues with lines, extra hardware to fall apart on you. And the best part? If this thing fails and your motor goes you get to foot the bill on a replacement motor if it is under warranty.

Given that little tidbit... Why even bother with it? If it is under warranty and you don't go into limp mode (as you shouldn't), why try to overdo it? It is a waste of money and in the end can be more detrimental by causing sludge formation due to moisture in the oil not burning off because it isn't getting hot enough.

Anyhow... Those are my thoughts after having been through this already. Take it or leave it. Good luck!

XwChriswX 01-23-2014 09:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tigger (Post 2663530)
I'll throw my two cents in on this right quick even though it is a slightly old topic it may help others.

First. The stock 12+ MY oil cooler works fine. I have beaten my 370 down and even in summer temps it never went past 230.

Second. And I've spoken with the dealer regarding a retro-fit of the stock oil cooler assembly on a pre-12 MY 370 and the cost was pushing $900 just for parts. And the complexity of installing it is a bit over the top since you would need to drop the motor. Yes. You need to drop the motor.

Third. I had a 25R GTM oil cooler installed on top of the stock oil cooler and ran into over-cooling issues. It was subsequently removed within two weeks. Oil temps are back to ideal. (The needle on the dash isn't exactly what your oil temps really are but we should all know this by now)

Not to mention the holes you get to cut and the minor modifications to the mount to fit the cooler, rubbing issues with lines, extra hardware to fall apart on you. And the best part? If this thing fails and your motor goes you get to foot the bill on a replacement motor if it is under warranty.

Given that little tidbit... Why even bother with it? If it is under warranty and you don't go into limp mode (as you shouldn't), why try to overdo it? It is a waste of money and in the end can be more detrimental by causing sludge formation due to moisture in the oil not burning off because it isn't getting hot enough.

Anyhow... Those are my thoughts after having been through this already. Take it or leave it. Good luck!

Does it read higher or lower than actual engine oil temps?

Or better worded... does it read oil going into a cooler's temp, or oil going into the motor's temp?

takjak2 01-23-2014 04:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by XwChriswX (Post 2663549)
Does it read higher or lower than actual engine oil temps?

Or better worded... does it read oil going into a cooler's temp, or oil going into the motor's temp?

It reads coming out of the cooler and filter, going in to the engine. On average 20 degrees low

XwChriswX 01-23-2014 04:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by takjak2 (Post 2664256)
It reads coming out of the cooler and filter, going in to the engine. On average 20 degrees low

Ok good. :icon17: Mine, even with the cooler blocked off usually never gets far past 160* unless it's stop and go traffic. I feel a bit better if it's reading low.

synolimit 01-23-2014 06:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tigger (Post 2663530)
I'll throw my two cents in on this right quick even though it is a slightly old topic it may help others.

First. The stock 12+ MY oil cooler works fine. I have beaten my 370 down and even in summer temps it never went past 230.

Second. And I've spoken with the dealer regarding a retro-fit of the stock oil cooler assembly on a pre-12 MY 370 and the cost was pushing $900 just for parts. And the complexity of installing it is a bit over the top since you would need to drop the motor. Yes. You need to drop the motor.

Third. I had a 25R GTM oil cooler installed on top of the stock oil cooler and ran into over-cooling issues. It was subsequently removed within two weeks. Oil temps are back to ideal. (The needle on the dash isn't exactly what your oil temps really are but we should all know this by now)

Not to mention the holes you get to cut and the minor modifications to the mount to fit the cooler, rubbing issues with lines, extra hardware to fall apart on you. And the best part? If this thing fails and your motor goes you get to foot the bill on a replacement motor if it is under warranty.

Given that little tidbit... Why even bother with it? If it is under warranty and you don't go into limp mode (as you shouldn't), why try to overdo it? It is a waste of money and in the end can be more detrimental by causing sludge formation due to moisture in the oil not burning off because it isn't getting hot enough.

Anyhow... Those are my thoughts after having been through this already. Take it or leave it. Good luck!

Holy **** so much fail I don't even know where to begin.


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