Originally Posted by synolimit (Post 2664390)

Holy **** so much fail I don't even know where to begin.

Originally Posted by Tigger (Post 2663530)

I'll throw my two cents in on this right quick even though it is a slightly old topic it may help others.

First. The stock 12+ MY oil cooler works fine. I have beaten my 370 down and even in summer temps it never went past 230.

Second. And I've spoken with the dealer regarding a retro-fit of the stock oil cooler assembly on a pre-12 MY 370 and the cost was pushing $900 just for parts. And the complexity of installing it is a bit over the top since you would need to drop the motor. Yes. You need to drop the motor.

Third. I had a 25R GTM oil cooler installed on top of the stock oil cooler and ran into over-cooling issues. It was subsequently removed within two weeks. Oil temps are back to ideal. (The needle on the dash isn't exactly what your oil temps really are but we should all know this by now)

Not to mention the holes you get to cut and the minor modifications to the mount to fit the cooler, rubbing issues with lines, extra hardware to fall apart on you. And the best part? If this thing fails and your motor goes you get to foot the bill on a replacement motor if it is under warranty.

Given that little tidbit... Why even bother with it? If it is under warranty and you don't go into limp mode (as you shouldn't), why try to overdo it? It is a waste of money and in the end can be more detrimental by causing sludge formation due to moisture in the oil not burning off because it isn't getting hot enough.

Anyhow... Those are my thoughts after having been through this already. Take it or leave it. Good luck!

Originally Posted by synolimit (Post 2664862)

No it doesn't, you must not drive hard enough or on the track. Everyone over heats with it, period.

Who the hell asks a dealer for anything? I have no idea what the **** you're even smoking if you agree with them that "yes you need to drop the motor." Don't reinvent the wheel. Install an oil cooler like normal people do.

Won't over cool with a block off plate. I get the feeling you're a very over cautious person. Never heard of the oil gauge being off. In fact most people that have said what limp mode is within the ecu have also stated that's what the gauge says when said limp mode occurs.

Lol holes? That one tiny 2.5" hole to much for you? Or you could just remove that little flap of plastic and no holes then. This is a track thread my friend, I should move it to the track thread to call you a troll. Mods to the mount? You bolt a plate down, big deal! Rubbing won't happen if you have a brain. There's lots of OEM lines, they don't rub do they? Not sure how one oil cooler would fail (you do know these are on tons of factory cars don't you??!) if again you have a brain at installing. Tons and tons of people for years have been doing these and not only on these cars.

You do it so you don't over heat and cook the motors oil. Did that real need explaining? i don't even want to go on. Tons of fail my friend, good day.

Originally Posted by 2011 Nismo#91 (Post 2665126)

If you already know all this why are you asking us for OUR OPINIONS? Or did you just make this thread to bitch at other members for having a different opinion?

Originally Posted by steves (Post 2669217)

I removed the OEM oil cooler but did notice a hole cross drilled in the block, where the bolt goes, that holds the adaptor plate. Not sure what its for but if you use the long original bolt that goes with the OEM cooler it will block this hole. I ended up cutting some length off it to clear this passage.

Originally Posted by steves (Post 2670690)

09-11 one doesn't reach. The bolt that goes with the OEM oil cooler however works ok with the Mocal adaptor plate (with the OEM cooler removed). Just goes a bit deep into the block.

Originally Posted by synolimit (Post 2664862)

No it doesn't, you must not drive hard enough or on the track. Everyone over heats with it, period.

Originally Posted by Tigger (Post 2663530)

I'll throw my two cents in on this right quick even though it is a slightly old topic it may help others.

First. The stock 12+ MY oil cooler works fine. I have beaten my 370 down and even in summer temps it never went past 230.

Second. And I've spoken with the dealer regarding a retro-fit of the stock oil cooler assembly on a pre-12 MY 370 and the cost was pushing $900 just for parts. And the complexity of installing it is a bit over the top since you would need to drop the motor. Yes. You need to drop the motor.

Third. I had a 25R GTM oil cooler installed on top of the stock oil cooler and ran into over-cooling issues. It was subsequently removed within two weeks. Oil temps are back to ideal. (The needle on the dash isn't exactly what your oil temps really are but we should all know this by now)

Not to mention the holes you get to cut and the minor modifications to the mount to fit the cooler, rubbing issues with lines, extra hardware to fall apart on you. And the best part? If this thing fails and your motor goes you get to foot the bill on a replacement motor if it is under warranty.

Given that little tidbit... Why even bother with it? If it is under warranty and you don't go into limp mode (as you shouldn't), why try to overdo it? It is a waste of money and in the end can be more detrimental by causing sludge formation due to moisture in the oil not burning off because it isn't getting hot enough.

Anyhow... Those are my thoughts after having been through this already. Take it or leave it. Good luck!

Originally Posted by Jordo! (Post 2671314)

Well, right.

If you aren't tracking the car or routinely seeing excessively high temps in whatever constitutes your "normal" driving, the extra cooling is overkill. But I wouldn't say "everyone over heats with it, period".

While there are quite a number of owners who have seen very high temps off the track, there are also quite few folks who are under cooling, running consistent temps around 150* -- that's too cold for heavy load.

Really, what would be nice is something with a thermostatic plate that was water cooled for faster warm up and kept temps under sustained load pretty much dead nuts on 200* (air cooled, methinks, being more track-friendly). But anything under 240* F is fine, although over 200* I believe the ECU will pull a bit of timing.

For an extra 10 - 15* cooling, I found the ARC cool fins actually work quite well -- basically just adding metal fins to the under side of the oil pan. I see very fast cool down between runs on the dyno too.