OEM oil cooler removal with aftermarket?
 

Finishing my 48 row oil cooler. How many of you 12+ removed the OEM oil cooler when installing the aftermarket one? The poll is to see who's done it and is it a good idea or not?

I would remove that POS and the coolant lines. Revert back to -'11 coolant lines and then add a nice aftermarket front mount oil cooler.
Now this is easier said than dun. LOL! Accessing those '12+ coolant lines and replacing w/the non water coolant lines will be a PITA. Plus probably over $200 in OEM parts if bought new! Let me know if you need a complete parts break down list if choosing to replace w/ -'11 lines.

Why not just loop the in and out together after the coolers out? I pulled all my TB hoses and just used the long one to loop the beginning to the end since everything was in a line.

Remove it. It really doesn't work well and it's just another thing to deal with. Go simple.

Plus weight. Right spoon ;)?

Keep it. It brings the oil up to temp faster.

:iagree:

Would this be a real benefit if you have time?

The oil doesn't heat much unless you have a load.

From Mocal website

Prolonged use of a car engine in conditions where the oil cannot reach its correct working temperature will cause sludge formation and crankcase oil dilution, leading to excessive wear especially in the cylinder bores. Optimum engine power will only be delivered at correct temperatures. The elimination of drag in engines caused by cold oil is a most important consideration, especially with a racing engine, revving the engine without a load will not put much heat into the oil and devices for preheating the oil may not be available.

It is therefore desirable to control of the oil flow through the cooler by a thermostatic device, we call an oilstat, set to divert oil to the cooler at 80ºC (although a wide range of settings is available for special applications). This is the minimum temperature required to evaporate and dispel contaminating substances.

I left it in place and installed over it. I felt pulling all the coolant lines, etc wasn't worth the possible benefits. My Z1 34 row oil cooler works like a charm on street and track. I think I have some pics of the oil lines if you need some ideas.

I'll throw my two cents in on this right quick even though it is a slightly old topic it may help others.

First. The stock 12+ MY oil cooler works fine. I have beaten my 370 down and even in summer temps it never went past 230.

Second. And I've spoken with the dealer regarding a retro-fit of the stock oil cooler assembly on a pre-12 MY 370 and the cost was pushing $900 just for parts. And the complexity of installing it is a bit over the top since you would need to drop the motor. Yes. You need to drop the motor.

Third. I had a 25R GTM oil cooler installed on top of the stock oil cooler and ran into over-cooling issues. It was subsequently removed within two weeks. Oil temps are back to ideal. (The needle on the dash isn't exactly what your oil temps really are but we should all know this by now)

Not to mention the holes you get to cut and the minor modifications to the mount to fit the cooler, rubbing issues with lines, extra hardware to fall apart on you. And the best part? If this thing fails and your motor goes you get to foot the bill on a replacement motor if it is under warranty.

Given that little tidbit... Why even bother with it? If it is under warranty and you don't go into limp mode (as you shouldn't), why try to overdo it? It is a waste of money and in the end can be more detrimental by causing sludge formation due to moisture in the oil not burning off because it isn't getting hot enough.

Anyhow... Those are my thoughts after having been through this already. Take it or leave it. Good luck!

Does it read higher or lower than actual engine oil temps?

Or better worded... does it read oil going into a cooler's temp, or oil going into the motor's temp?

It reads coming out of the cooler and filter, going in to the engine. On average 20 degrees low

Ok good. :icon17: Mine, even with the cooler blocked off usually never gets far past 160* unless it's stop and go traffic. I feel a bit better if it's reading low.

Holy **** so much fail I don't even know where to begin.

Feel free to "correct" me if you like. But trolling to troll is not helpful to anyone. Thanks for being worthless. However, if you have something to add that would provide useful information to the community then please add your two cents. If you want to disagree, then disagree. But the word "fail" is a word trolls use on forums when they have nothing to offer and only want to call people out when information is offered that isn't generally accepted. Like I said. Take it or leave it. That is my last response to this thread so don't bother trying to get me to argue.

I don't need to add my 2 cents, you're the only one who thinks that way. We all get it. And it's my thread so ill do what I want in it.

No it doesn't, you must not drive hard enough or on the track. Everyone over heats with it, period.

Who the hell asks a dealer for anything? I have no idea what the **** you're even smoking if you agree with them that "yes you need to drop the motor." Don't reinvent the wheel. Install an oil cooler like normal people do.

Won't over cool with a block off plate. I get the feeling you're a very over cautious person. Never heard of the oil gauge being off. In fact most people that have said what limp mode is within the ecu have also stated that's what the gauge says when said limp mode occurs.

Lol holes? That one tiny 2.5" hole to much for you? Or you could just remove that little flap of plastic and no holes then. This is a track thread my friend, I should move it to the track thread to call you a troll. Mods to the mount? You bolt a plate down, big deal! Rubbing won't happen if you have a brain. There's lots of OEM lines, they don't rub do they? Not sure how one oil cooler would fail (you do know these are on tons of factory cars don't you??!) if again you have a brain at installing. Tons and tons of people for years have been doing these and not only on these cars.

You do it so you don't over heat and cook the motors oil. Did that real need explaining? i don't even want to go on. Tons of fail my friend, good day.

If you already know all this why are you asking us for OUR OPINIONS? Or did you just make this thread to bitch at other members for having a different opinion?

How does asking to keep the OEM cooler with a aftermarket have anything to do with not installing an aftermarket at all?! Read first, talk never, thanks.

I removed the OEM oil cooler but did notice a hole cross drilled in the block, where the bolt goes, that holds the adaptor plate. Not sure what its for but if you use the long original bolt that goes with the OEM cooler it will block this hole. I ended up cutting some length off it to clear this passage.

Not 100% sure what you mean but from what I've found out you just need to buy the 09-11 shorter one from nissan. Cutting yours seemed to work though.

09-11 one doesn't reach. The bolt that goes with the OEM oil cooler however works ok with the Mocal adaptor plate (with the OEM cooler removed). Just goes a bit deep into the block.

Why wouldn't it? All 09-11 guys use their OEM stuff with the mocal. The 12+ uses a longer inner thread piece since it has to go through a longer OEM cooler no?

ok, sorry was referring to a single bolt without the extension piece that comes with the mocal adaptor

O gotcha

Well, right.

If you aren't tracking the car or routinely seeing excessively high temps in whatever constitutes your "normal" driving, the extra cooling is overkill. But I wouldn't say "everyone over heats with it, period".

While there are quite a number of owners who have seen very high temps off the track, there are also quite few folks who are under cooling, running consistent temps around 150* -- that's too cold for heavy load.

Really, what would be nice is something with a thermostatic plate that was water cooled for faster warm up and kept temps under sustained load pretty much dead nuts on 200* (air cooled, methinks, being more track-friendly). But anything under 240* F is fine, although over 200* I believe the ECU will pull a bit of timing.

For an extra 10 - 15* cooling, I found the ARC cool fins actually work quite well -- basically just adding metal fins to the under side of the oil pan. I see very fast cool down between runs on the dyno too.

Behold:

http://www.the370z.com/members/jordo...40606-0000.jpg

I also have two stuck on my diff cover :tup:

LOL!

1) 12+ OEM oil cooler = sh!+

2) "I've spoken with the dealer..." I stopped reading after that...

3) Over cooling issues? Really? LOL! The rest of pt 3 is more laughable...:rofl2:

This forum is so entertaining....;)

Not everyone like E V E R Y O N E. Everyone like as in everyone that tracks and is serious.

Who's under cooling doing a "heavy load?"

The ecu shouldn't pull timing from oil temp. It should pull based off of intake temps. Above 260 or whatever I can see it though as many have same they hit limp mod. But a tuner would have to chime in that's actually saw the map.

I'll check the fins out.

where can i find these fin blades? how much?

Here you go, FLUJOKE - ARC - Cool Fin - Nengun Performance

NM. just remembered I would have to remove and run wo an under shroud and that's not happening


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Fun reading the :drama:

I don't believe the stock cooler is garbage because it works great on the street for short bursts of spirited driving (I've had with and without) but of course it's not up to track duty. If you treat the streets like a track, it's not going to cut it there, either. But multiple 3rd gear pulls to redline on a hot summer day, the benefit of the stock cooler will be apparent in short order.

Is the oil warm-up benefit of the stock cooler worth retaining with an aftermarket track-capable oil cooler?

Would an ideal dual-duty setup retain the stock cooler, and use a removable block-off-plate for the oil to air cooler for track days?

The OEM one works for daily driving and some drag racing runs. I've never seen temps above 220 getting stuck in traffic or during 1hr plus drives in 80-90* weather. I can't see it performing better than a 24 row.

I would guess coupling it with a much smaller 18row and csf triple pass rad would yield best results without the headache of having to remove the oem and you wouldnt be blocking as much radiator surface area compared to a much larger oil cooler .