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Anyone else's Z start when it feels like it? Not steering lock...

Originally Posted by DEpointfive0 There actually was a thread dedicated to a longer pause after pulling the fuse, c'mon SouthArk!!! You're slackin'!!! There have been some reports of it making

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Old 09-04-2013, 09:19 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by DEpointfive0 View Post
There actually was a thread dedicated to a longer pause after pulling the fuse, c'mon SouthArk!!! You're slackin'!!!
There have been some reports of it making the pause longer, but nothing I would consider "scientific." I'm all but convinced that the brake/clutch switches are the culprit for long pauses. Edit: and possibly the reason for all pauses.

My guess as to what is happening is that there is a (filtering) capacitor on the ECM/BCM inputs and when the brake/clutch switches get dirty the extra resistance makes it take longer to charge the cap. If anybody has another theory, chime in.
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Old 09-04-2013, 10:10 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SouthArk370Z View Post
There have been some reports of it making the pause longer, but nothing I would consider "scientific." I'm all but convinced that the brake/clutch switches are the culprit for long pauses. Edit: and possibly the reason for all pauses.

My guess as to what is happening is that there is a (filtering) capacitor on the ECM/BCM inputs and when the brake/clutch switches get dirty the extra resistance makes it take longer to charge the cap. If anybody has another theory, chime in.
Hey SouthArk, you don't reckon that the switch contacts are self cleaning? I mean those robust automotive type contacts usually self clean. I would love to see one of those "defectives" disassembled.
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Old 09-04-2013, 03:24 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Without the car turned on and running the battery reads 12 volts. Running it is just over 14 volts.
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Old 09-04-2013, 05:07 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Riptide67 View Post
Without the car turned on and running the battery reads 12 volts. Running it is just over 14 volts.
Assuming your meter is correct, the battery voltage is a little low. A fully charged battery should read ~13V. With the car running, you should be reading ~14V.

Have you checked the water in the battery? If it's low, add distilled water. Adding water is a lot easier if you remove the trim piece that the battery lid fits into. See one of the "Pull the SLU Fuse" DIYs for how to remove the trim piece.
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Old 09-04-2013, 05:19 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Thanks for the tip. I am going to add that to the weekend laundry list of things to try before I take it back to the dealership.
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Old 09-04-2013, 05:45 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I find myself pushing the start button and door lock/unlock multiple times till I get what I want all the time!! The start buttons not as bad as the door! I've stood at the door for over a minute trying to get that ******* thing to work! Brand new 13
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Old 09-05-2013, 12:56 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Good to know that I'm not the only one with the issue haha.
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Old 09-11-2013, 09:31 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Dropped it off at the dealership tonight. Hopefully they figure what's up.

So far it's not:
SLU
Start button
Car battery
Key fob batteries

Possible:
Clutch pedal sensor
ECM
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Old 09-12-2013, 07:14 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Update as of 12 September.

Dealer replicated start issue. Took them 30 tries to get the car to crank.

Hooked it up to computer and everything reads normal. Started the car successfully multiple times. Decided to keep the car hooked up over night to attempt to replicate tomorrow.

Tech I spoke to claims it may have a bad contact point somewhere or something is overheating(not sure how anything could be overheated when cold starting a car and trying to get it to crank).

To me they seem confused.

I just want my damn push button to start the first time every time. Or a damn ignition I can insert a key into and turn.
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Old 09-13-2013, 07:22 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Day two at dealership.

Able to start it multiple times while hooked up to their computers. Has not had an issue since yesterday morning. Tech rattled off eight or so different parts that all incorporate into the push button start. Can't narrow down which part has the intermittent failure without it actually failing.....

I asked them to keep the car over the weekend since there aren't techs there over the weekend. Hopefully it doesn't start on Monday.
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Old 09-13-2013, 11:03 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Sucks. I just have to make sure I fully engage the clutch before I hit the button. If I'm even a millisecond to soon it won't start and I have to try again.

As for my doors not locking or unlocking with the door button, I've tried 30+ times and it just won't work. Have to pull the fob out and use it. Really annoying!!! After using the fob it starts working again.
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Old 09-14-2013, 12:07 AM   #12 (permalink)
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They told me they have had the FOB in the whole time. I usually keep it in myself. I personally have a feeling it's the clutch pedal sensor. I'm about to just ask them to swap it out and pray that was the issue.
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Old 09-14-2013, 01:42 PM   #13 (permalink)
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I usually keep it in myself.
Well there's your problem. Anal key fobs don't work well.
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Old 09-14-2013, 09:38 AM   #14 (permalink)
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How about your antenna heads? A tech told me that 4 feet is enough to be out of range for the start button. So far I have only found antennas in the doors, below the bar, and in the hatch area. If there was one inside the dash, I don't have that one anymore. I replaced the batteries in the fobs and purchased new clips for the antenna under the bar (keep popping off and falling down). Recently, I have been good to go.
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Old 09-14-2013, 11:46 AM   #15 (permalink)
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I'm gonna have to mention that to them on Monday. I didn't know there were antennas in any other location. IIRC the one that reads the key is located near the e-brake handle.
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