Possible solutions to aftermarket clutch master cylinder

Alstann · 09-29-2013, 04:49 PM

Hey guys, sorry for such a long time of silence! After I replaced my master cylinder, I became lazy and had no reason to look into a replacement.

So, bad news. I was too bored waiting for my GTM turbo kit to arrive, so I reassembled my Z, and all was fantastic. God it's nice having a fun car to drive again. But...after 3 days, I am unhappy to report my clutch master cylinder failed. Again. I actually just limped my car home not 15 minutes ago.

However, I have some promising news!

First off, I would like to say Wilwood never gave me any insight on what to do - they just gave me a generic "We do not make a master cylinder for the 370z" statement. Duh.

But then, I looked into Tilton Racing, and I came across what must be the PERFECT aftermarket master cylinder: The 76-Series:

It's SHORTER than the length of the Wilwood unit, AND!, it has the flexibility to put the outlet to the slave cylinder on the back, or the top! It's perfect! This would save another half inch off the Wilwood unit, which would make super easy to just trim off a tiny bit of the ABS module, and install this puppy!

I plan on ordering it tonight, and having it in my hands ASAP so I can get this install underway. Like the Wilwood unit, they make a .70 piston diameter version which is a tiny bit larger than stock, but it should work great! Also, the stock resevoir can be used with the right adapters.

I truly believe I can get this to fit without any crazy modification. I could even reuse the stock line to the slave cylinder, with a bit of bending!

Quote:

Originally Posted by tibal

Have an update for you all:

So after several attempts at reverse bleeding, (Using a MityVac, applying vacuum to the top of CMS and pumping clutch) I still was losing pressure after driving for short periods of time.

I was about to pull the trigger on a new CMC, and before I did so I wanted to double check there were no leaks or out of the ordinary issues that I was not seeing.

Everytime I would pump the clutch, I could hear a little swoosh as the pedal returned to the top. I noticed the CMC piston was coming out a lot, and when being depressed, would pull a tiny bit of air back in the lines.

This is when I decided to remove almost all play by adjusting the top bump stop point further forward. This left around 1/4 of an inch of play up top, and there was no more noise when engaging.

So far it has been 3 days, lots of spirited driving, and no issues!

I think that since the new clutch install, the engagement point is a lot lower than the oem causing the CMC to pull air back into the system every time it over extended.

Just curious: How has it been holding up? I want to test for this when I install my next master cylinder.

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