Installing my clutch and flywheel tonight, any tips?

Alstann

I'm gonna be installing my new clutch, flywheel, and HD CSC tonight. I am going off a my350z.com installation guide, just as a helper, but for the most part, I'm going off intuition and just common sense.

Does anyone have any resources or tips for the install? Also, does the service manual have a page for that?

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GaleForce

The only other thing I would recommend is installing a new CMC too. Though, it's easy enough to do after the fact.

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Alstann

Joe told me the same thing, but I didn't have too much spare funds, heh. But yeah, afterwards isn't really a big deal. ^^

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fuct

for one you HAVE to at least put in a new CSC every time you change the clutch. per the manual. something about getting clutch material on the CSC shaft and it entering the cylinder and prematurely failing. you will have to open up the tranny to get it out. pretty big hassle not to do it right the first time.

SPOHN

Would a new CMC be needed being his car is only a 2012? I'm a 2011 and I'm fine. I know there's been issues but I'd have to wait till it fails. Hopefully a HD MC will be coming to the market.

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GaleForce

Maybe, maybe not. My car had 7000 miles on it when I changed my clutch and it turned out my CMC needed to be replaced. It's just something to be prepared for I guess.

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Alstann

I finished my clutch and flywheel install last tuesday morning - man, that was fun!

Nissan sure was kind in making all the electrical connectors around the tranny removable by unbolting them - that was neat. I got the tranny out pretty easy and straightforward, the DXD kit and HD CSC installed perfectly, and everything came back together no hassle. Just took a bit longer than I thought because of the stupid clutch line flare nut being stuck, but nothing a micro torch couldn't provoke loose.

Worst part was I tipped the end of the tranny by accident, and spilled what must have been a quart of fluid. Whoops. Had to make a trip to AutoZone for some Mobil-1 75w-90 for now, but later I'll have some Redline oil in there.

In any case, speaking of the master cylinder, I found some funny behavior - I'm 300 miles into break in, so I still have some miles left, but sometimes, the pedal will be soft until halfway down, where it becomes hard again. And after a few clutch ins, the pedal will be normal again, where it is hard all the way through the travel. Is this a sign of failing CMC? Or is it just that it's gonna be wonky until it's more broken in?

Also, wouldn't getting an OEM CMC just have the same issue?

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diddy535

Sounds more like a fluid issue. You mentioned loosing some, is it possible the line needs to be bled again or just needs more fluid?

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Alstann

Possibly. I'm gonna be bleeding the line again soon with some ATE superblue to be safe.

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GaleForce

Try bleeding it.

My clutch would start out firm (or so I thought) and after a short drive I would experience what you described. Soft pedal until half way to the floor. The pedal would come back after the car sat for a few hours.

I replaced the CMC and it has been perfect. The pedal is more firm than original, and the firm feel starts within .5"-1" of taking up the slack.

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Alstann

I just finished bleeding it - it seems to have worked, haha. If anyone reads this thread, the Motive Power Bleeder with the ford head also fits the clutch reservoir. I found that out randomly!

The pedal pressure seems to be like how it was before I bled it again, but this time, the pedal drop is the original .5-1 inches. Lets hope it stays this way.

I know Joe is working on a HD CMC, so hopefully that will be an option soon.

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GaleForce

Good job!

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Jsolo

How much pressure did you pressurize the bottle to?

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Alstann

Crossing my fingers that it works.

Jsolo, I pressurised the bottle to about 5 psi, until the cap blew off, and tried bleeding it around there, but then i figured it wasn't enough psi, so I used some zip ties around the clutch resevoir, and pumped it to 15 psi. The fluid didn't come out as a clear line, probably due to the line being pointed down.

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Jsolo

^^That's quite a bit of pressure. I recall the FSM explicitely stating not to use any pressure bleeders on the clutch. Reason probably being the clutch MC having much smaller seals than the brake mc, and operating at significantly lower pressures.

How'd you wear out the clutch so fast in a 2012?

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G37S Sedan 6MT, Eibach swaybars, Invidia Exhaust, Weaker Clutch Pedal Spring

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