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Overheating issue with 2013 370z?

Up in MD/PA, I can't get mine to budge over 180* without seriously pushing. I almost feel like my cooler is too much, but I got it when I was

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Old 05-31-2013, 03:36 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Up in MD/PA, I can't get mine to budge over 180* without seriously pushing.

I almost feel like my cooler is too much, but I got it when I was in Phoenix, and I plan on TT later on. So figured, it will suffice.
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Old 05-31-2013, 03:36 PM   #2 (permalink)
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so does anyone in general experience sluggishness when driving after a while?
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Old 05-31-2013, 05:34 PM   #3 (permalink)
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so does anyone in general experience sluggishness when driving after a while?
Yes !! even after putting a 25 row cooler on if i drive thru town my oil temp used to be 220 now around 200 by the oil temp gauge and anything over 190 and it does feel sluggish . since i wasnt ready to get an uprev tune i followed what kennys370z did and hooked up a switch so i can turn the damn cooling fans on whenever the hell i want and they run on high not half speed and now have almost virtually no lag in acceleration . finally i can drive in town without coming home disgusted at how slow it is when its hot felt like my car was having an epileptic fit before when i press the gas was so frigging annoying . if you have been tuned already call them up and have them do the fan control mod .
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Old 05-31-2013, 03:37 PM   #4 (permalink)
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You might want to block off part of the cooler for now. Too cold is as bad as too hot.
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Old 05-31-2013, 03:37 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Tell me about it... I forgot to put it on before winter. Yeah, 160* was a hard drive.
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Old 05-31-2013, 04:51 PM   #6 (permalink)
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My experience post-oil cooler is the oil temp approaches 200 if either: a) heat soak induced city driving, which feels sluggish or b) driving like it's stolen. Other than that, the needle floats between 180 - 195 or lower when cruising on the highway.

However, pre-oil cooler my experience was basically the same as the OP. Oil temps were regularly between 215 - 230 or higher if driving even slightly hard. And I could forget about canyon runs; the temps would skyrocket to the 240 - 260 territory.
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Old 05-31-2013, 05:26 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I have the same issue on mine. When i hit 220 I enter limp mode and it bogs down. Known issue. I guess a oil cooler and tune with fan control mod will help.
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Old 05-31-2013, 05:39 PM   #8 (permalink)
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on a 2012-13 adding the sandwich plate it gets a bit tight in space with the hoses but you can install np. Sometimes the stock cooler or sandwich plate will rotate a bit when doing oil changes and will need to tighten it up...
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Old 05-31-2013, 05:40 PM   #9 (permalink)
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on a 2012-13 adding the sandwich plate it gets a bit tight in space with the hoses but you can install np. Sometimes the stock cooler or sandwich plate will rotate a bit when doing oil changes and will need to tighten it up...
I'm guessing no one has tried tackling removing the Stock Oil/Water cooler, and just installing an Oil/Air cooler?
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Old 06-01-2013, 11:23 AM   #10 (permalink)
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I'm guessing no one has tried tackling removing the Stock Oil/Water cooler, and just installing an Oil/Air cooler?
I thought about it for a few minutes when I first got under there and realized how tight things were gonna be. I considered just running a short piece of coolant hose to loop one end to the other (input to output), but it just seemed like a bigger mess than just adding the new plate on top. In the end, if it doesn't leak (and hasn't so far...), I'm happy with the outcome. Temps dropped to 185-195 (city and highway) at 95-97 degrees outside temp, when I was operating at 210-220+ for the same drives.
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Old 05-31-2013, 10:17 PM   #11 (permalink)
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on a 2012-13 adding the sandwich plate it gets a bit tight in space with the hoses but you can install np. Sometimes the stock cooler or sandwich plate will rotate a bit when doing oil changes and will need to tighten it up...
Would tapping into the stock lines work to keep room free'd up at the filter? Just Tee off the pre and post factory lines and run to a second core? This was my original idea since hose, two tees and a core cost next to nothing.

Pardon the crude pic


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Old 05-31-2013, 10:29 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Would tapping into the stock lines work to keep room free'd up at the filter? Just Tee off the pre and post factory lines and run to a second core? This was my original idea since hose, two tees and a core cost next to nothing.

Pardon the crude pic


( Click to show/hide )
The lines that you are referring to are coolant lines. The factory cooler is an oil to coolant, oil cooler.
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Old 05-31-2013, 10:35 PM   #13 (permalink)
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The lines that you are referring to are coolant lines. The factory cooler is an oil to coolant, oil cooler.
Correct, the factory oil cooler is nothing but a sandwhich plate with coolant that is about 20-30 degrees cooler then normal oil temps. There is actually no extra lines or an actual cooler such as the aftermarket ones. Its just that plate that has coolant running through it at a slightly lower then oil temp.
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Old 05-31-2013, 10:39 PM   #14 (permalink)
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The lines that you are referring to are coolant lines. The factory cooler is an oil to coolant, oil cooler.
Just saw that now thanks. Wow, ill be pulling all this off and making my own.
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Old 05-31-2013, 11:07 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Just saw that now thanks. Wow, ill be pulling all this off and making my own.
If your really daring you could get do a custom coolant to oil cooler. A few of us have considered it but never taken the leap.

Laminova Oil-Water heat exchanger
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