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Should I put the stock crank pulley on and the stock intakes???

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Old 02-13-2013, 04:11 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Should I put the stock crank pulley on and the stock intakes???
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Old 02-13-2013, 04:12 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Should I put the stock crank pulley on and the stock intakes???
I think the intake don't avoid warranty unless im wrong?
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Old 02-13-2013, 06:14 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Maybe your just not touching it in the right spot lol


I wish I had more for you the fact that there is no codes leads me to agree with the crank angle sensor. If thats out just a bit your going to throw everything out of wack and not necessarily throw a code.
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Old 02-13-2013, 06:17 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Maybe your just not touching it in the right spot lol


I wish I had more for you the fact that there is no codes leads me to agree with the crank angle sensor. If thats out just a bit your going to throw everything out of wack and not necessarily throw a code.
Fair enough, question still remains if I should uninstall my crank pulley.......?
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Old 02-13-2013, 06:23 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I dont see why you would need to (unless this is a warranty issue?). Everything responsible for the engine running is located behind the front cover via a chaincase. You could technically start the car without the pulley on the front of the car without any issues. There is no reluctor ring on this pulley correct?
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Old 02-13-2013, 06:58 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I dont see why you would need to (unless this is a warranty issue?). Everything responsible for the engine running is located behind the front cover via a chaincase. You could technically start the car without the pulley on the front of the car without any issues. There is no reluctor ring on this pulley correct?
This IS a warranty issue, I'm going to take in the car, show them the video and tell them to figure it out


I'm going to revert to stock air boxes so they can't blame an air leak or whatever...


And I want to assume there isn't a reluctor ring (had to google it) because the new pulley is aluminum and I KNOW they don't put magnets in them
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Old 02-13-2013, 07:40 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Ah gotcha, I would go to 100 percent stock because you know if they cant figure it out the first thing they are going to do is blame it on that aftermarket part that has nothing to do with it.

And reading through your thread I believe it was stated that the timing is taken off the flywheel at the other end of the crank .
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Old 02-20-2013, 11:46 AM   #8 (permalink)
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DE, yes that does sound like my car when my fuel pump went out.... BUUUUTTTT mine wouldnt idle after the crummy start. it would sputter and the engine would shake like it was starving..... which it was, then flat out die on me.

yours sounds like mine just weeks before it finally went out. its crazy that once it fires up ok it drives normal. mine did the same thing. go figure.
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Old 02-27-2013, 12:03 AM   #9 (permalink)
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DE, yes that does sound like my car when my fuel pump went out.... BUUUUTTTT mine wouldnt idle after the crummy start. it would sputter and the engine would shake like it was starving..... which it was, then flat out die on me.

yours sounds like mine just weeks before it finally went out. its crazy that once it fires up ok it drives normal. mine did the same thing. go figure.
a fuel issue you wouldn't say... weird could have sworn i saw that somewhere else in this thread... lol damn lazy techs at nissan not wanting to actually figure out whats wrong. did you show them the video?
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Old 02-27-2013, 01:21 AM   #10 (permalink)
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a fuel issue you wouldn't say... weird could have sworn i saw that somewhere else in this thread... lol damn lazy techs at nissan not wanting to actually figure out whats wrong. did you show them the video?
Yep, I did... They still said battery... I was like, it cranked fuckin strong for 10 cranks, LOL

and I put my battery on the charger every damn night
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Old 02-27-2013, 05:45 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Yep, I did... They still said battery... I was like, it cranked fuckin strong for 10 cranks, LOL

and I put my battery on the charger every damn night
Many auto parts stores will test your battery under load, often for free.
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Old 02-27-2013, 06:36 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Many auto parts stores will test your battery under load, often for free.
I'd tell them to test it with a new battery in it and then go from there. Now on my Pontiac solstice, I had these exact issues. I took it to 3 different shops and no one could figure it out. Then one day, it just started up fine and had no issues. I'll bet it WAS the fuel pump. When I tried to start it, it sounded like an old juloppy trying to turn over. Chug Chug Chug Chug. No one ever figured it out. Amazing and they too told me to install a new battery; which I did, but we have no way of knowing if that was it......cause I sold it and bought the Z.
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Old 02-26-2013, 07:11 PM   #13 (permalink)
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... So the dealershit said nothing is wrong with my car... It needs a new battery... That's their answer... Anyone else smell bullshít???
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Old 02-26-2013, 11:33 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Sounds like they either cant figure it out, or just dont want to bother pulling the trans.
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Old 02-27-2013, 08:25 AM   #15 (permalink)
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DE im not sure if i mentioned but the day my car wouldnt start (friday afternoon) i ran and bought a new battery. installed it and the car fired up! ran great until saturday afternoon when it wouldnt start and eventually had to be towed to the dealership.

i have no idea in hell why the new battery made the fuel pump work so well for a day then crap out.......
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