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Originally Posted by Lunar-Eclipse If this problem started happening after the tranny replacement I would agree with you. But the problem existed with the first tranny, clutch, pressure plate and
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#1 (permalink) | |
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A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: May 2009
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#2 (permalink) | |
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A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Edmonton, Alberta ...eh
Posts: 1,171
Drives: 2017 Touring auto
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Same symptoms but different issues. I still stand by my diagnosis. If the OP wants to be sure that it's not the CSC, it has to be a FULL system check, including the transmission shift alignment plate, master cylinder, measure pedal stroke (is the master cylinder even tightened properly to the firewall?) clutch pedal limit switches and pedal stroke, is everything straight and lined up? You can go further and check the orifice block in the clutch line, measure the volume of fluid the master cylinder per pedal stroke and bleed the CSC again and again. ..... and bleed it again! One tip that Joe gave me was to pump the pedal several times before releasing the pressure to move the air bubbles to the top of the bleed line. Then do it again and again and again. Then after all that you have to ask is it the pressure plate that’s broken? Is the clutch frayed and catching? What if the pressure plate isn't tightened up enough and therefore not releasing the clutch fully? I really have a hard time doing internet diagnosis as one never gets the full battery of symptoms or all the issues. I prefer to use all my senses in diagnostic analysis (touch, sound, sight) to determine the problem and try and find the issue. My recommendation is now to find a excellent clutch shop that knows our clutch systems (it is very common now to find the CSC's on most vehicles now) and do a proper diagnostic check to determine the cause.
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