Very good plan :icon17:

This MOD is on my short list for sure but I was just wondering what if any issues this change might have on warranty coverage if any.

This is a question I have as well. I've had mine in the closet for months because I'm not sure if the dealer would try and pin anything on me for having a different clutch pedal. Would the CSC not be covered under warranty with a different pedal? What about clutch issues leading into transmission issues?
Edit: I believe I'd be out of warranty anyways given my z is an '09 with 55k miles but just to be safe I've been holding off.

If you're doing it right, this is a good compliment/extension of your non-warranted after market CSC. I'd be curious to hear personal experience around warranty but both changes are woth their potential impact in my book. Yes I have both but am out of warranty in about 100 ways, so it wasn't a concern. ;-)

Camo500EFI,
As with any mod the dealership can make a fuss IF they feel the part is directly associated with a failure, however they can not by law deny a warranty claim for unrelated items. Example if you pop a motor they can't blame a clutch pedal, stereo system, new mufflers, etc. They have to be able to prove the part directly caused the failure for which they are denying warranty coverage. By the same token a guy with an 800hp built block and twin turbo's can't be denied warrenty for having a "Modded Car" if say his window motor failed or some other misc thing happens.

Now most dealerships won't even notice the pedal change unless they crawl up under your dash looking for it. Secondly IF for any reason you felt you had a transmission issue that needed service or warranty replacement you can 100% put the car back to stock with the factory pedal assembly in about an hour before taking it in for major trans work. The RJM install make zero permanent changes to the car and can be put back to stock quite simply.

Finally with the reduced or eliminated risk of OEM CSC failure when using my product you're about 100x less likely to need CSC service in or out of warranty for it.

The direct reduction of excess fluid flow to the CSC with my product reduces the stress on the OEM or aftermarket CSC's and takes away the risk of over stroking which pops the seals. This is the failure mode seen most in all factory CSC's as they get stoked too far, over extend the piston and blow the seals out spraying clutch fluid into the bellhousing along with your pedal dropping to the floor.

Couple that with smoother and more controlled shifting should lead to a long and happy life for your transmission/synchros as long as it isn't abused in other ways.

Also in the past 3.5 years since first releasing the 370Z version of my product I've not had a single customer report a CSC failure since the installation of my product and I had one customer who'd replaced 3 of them under warranty in about a 6 month period prior to getting my pedal installed... been good ever since.

So anyone on the fence due to CSC issues and possible warranty issues should absolutely consider installing one as it's far more likely it'll save you major warranty work in future rather then cause it. Also just FYI the factory clutch, flywheel and pressure plate are all considered "wear items" and are not covered under any warranty coverage unless its an exceptional case like failure in the fist 500 miles etc. Only the CSC and transmission behind them are covered under powertrain.

Hope that helps!:tup::driving:

Ryan Morgan
RJM Performance Inc.

I've had my pedal on for a week now and absolutely love it. I've been stuck in some brutal traffic and it is just easier to drive the car now. You don't need to rev as much meaning you can get the car into first and still be at a slower speed. I've let a few friends drive since the install and they are shifting smoothly immediately compared to before when they would be quite rough. Our stock pedal feel takes a while to get use to. And as advertised 1st 2nd shifts are much smoother whether under WOT or just cruising around. To me the pedal is everything that it was advertised.

Installation was simple but a pita or should I say back due to having to work under the dash. I'm definately not 25 anymore.

If you are not doing much in the way of mods to your car I would say this could be the single best mod to make. The pedal just makes the car more enjoyable to drive.

:iagree: My back yelled at me for a couple days after install but was worth it.

I pressed the buy button today. I look forward to it but it'll have to wait until after next week because of Zbash and Autocon this coming weekend.

Bendy flash light
Take seat off
Stretch back
What else?

If you are pulling the seat, you will be golden.

What setting did you guys go with? I've had my petal in a box since last year and just haven't had it installed yet. Looking at the end of the month probably.

Um ... yup ... We are in the same boat. You must be on the starboard side while I am on the port.

Haha yea I have the spring mod I just haven't gotten around to getting the RJM in.

I've set mine at the recommended starting point in the instructions. I haven't messed with it since then but I am happy with the feel.

Units are Back In Stock this Weekend!
 

Anyone who got this Mod in SoCal, where did you get it installed? How much?

I just wanted to ask some questions regarding the settings of RJM. On the instruction, it says the initial setting at 70%. Do I adjust the setting from 70%? As in turning left or right from the initial setting being at 70%?
also, how far does the clutch rod have to be sticking inside the fork? Thank you!

Just pushed the buy button. Can't wait!

I was just gonna order it then I realized I ran out of fund for mods. I'll have to wait a couple months till my birthday and then definitely buy.
This has been a very helpful thread.

I turned the dial all the way to the left and made a reference mark using a silver sharpie. Then I turned it all the way to the right to find the maximum, counting the number of turns. I found the 70% setting using those as reference points.

The fork that connects to the master cylinder rod is meant to be adjustable (pretty much the only adjustment you can make to the OEM pedal). I can't remember exactly, but I believe there is some guidance in the instructions. When I installed mine, I just made note of where the OEM pedal fork was and tried to make it about the same to start. Maybe someone else has some insight that is more helpful.

I just bought mine :) I've been driving without the helper spring because I like the linear feel of the pedal. Excited to feel the difference after I will install it!

Ordered mine on Wednesday and it arrived on Monday. I was planning on doing the install this Saturday but we had a cold front come through and the temps and humidity were going to be nice so I took today (Friday) off to do the install.

I followed Ryan's instructions to the letter and the install almost went perfect.........

The stock pedal came out with very little cursing and the new pedal was prepped and ready to go in. While installing one of the nuts that hold the pedal assembly to the master cylinder it made the sickening sound of falling through the mechanism. I pulled myself out from under the dash and started to look for it. The area is quite small so it should be easy to find BUT NOOOOOOO!. I pulled back the carpet, drug a magnet all over the area, searched behind the fuse box, pulled more carpet back, looked under the dead pedal foam block, drug the magnet everywhere it would reach, no joy. After about an HOUR I finally gave up and decided to take the other nut off and head to the parts store for a replacement. They had the 8x1.25 mm nut and flat washer so I headed home to finish up. The rest of the install went about as best as could be expected considering you are working under the dash of a small car. Did I mention that I'm 60 years old and over weight........

Finally installed and adjusted and ready for the shake down cruise. Man, the new pedal is SWEET! Everything seem okay except for the cruise control would not engage. I guess I didn't get the top brown switch adjusted properly. Got back home and started to dive under the dash again and there it was.....the damn missing nut laying next to the accelerator pedal. My theory is that when it fell off of the stud it fell in to a time portal/black hole. It just happened that when I returned that the time portal realigned and the nut reappeared.

I've owned a bunch of sports cars in my many years and all of them were manual transmission cars ( it ain't a sports car if it has a slush box) and the 370Z was the first car that I thought about getting rid of it because it requires 100% attention to operate the clutch. I don't know how many times I killed the engine at a light because I was not paying attention. No other car I have driven except maybe the 427/435 HP Vette my dad had or the Grand Spalding Hemi Charger that my high school friend had had such a tricky clutch. The RJM Performance adjustable clutch pedal is worth every penny and every ounce of effort to install. A beautifully designed and expertly assembled addition to one of the great cars of our time.

Headed to the Tail of the Dragon tomorrow for some fun.

I've installed mine now. It's even more tricky to drive this one than the stock! I don't know what I did wrong but my engagement point is really close to the floor but the clutch pedal rests almost even with the brake pedal with stock adjustments as recommended in the instructions.

I don't know how to improve my driving experience.

Kamillio, glad to hear you got it installed today. I'll walk you thru getting it dialed in better as your description is certainly not how it should feel when setup according to the guide's initial recommendations.

First off getting the friction point too low is absolutely just as difficult to drive as too high since you have no room to modulate before it starts grabbing.
The minimum recommended initial friction point as tested on level pavement is 1.5" up from the floor. Any less makes it's difficult to drive and there is a possibility for not fully disengaging the clutch. Now when you say you currently have the pedal almost even with the brake I'm guessing you mean the pedal is too low and not up level. It should be either level with or up to 1/2" above the brake when setup per the guide.

To bring the initial friction point up to where it's more comfortable you'll need to loosen the lock nut behind the clevis and thread the clutch rod counter clockwise to raise the pedal and in turn the initial bite point.

In addition to this you may want to recheck you have the AFP setup correctly to between 70-80%. To do this you can loosen the AFP lock bolt and turn the red knob clockwise until the sliding plates are fully retracted. This is the 0% point. Now keep careful count as you turn the knob counter clockwise 7-8 full turns for 70- 80% AFP. Mark the knob with a sharpie marker to make counting full turns easier if your knob doesn't have a mark already.
Once the AFP is set you can push the pedal arm down about half way to remove all slack from the pin while you tighten the AFP lock bolt.

Once you've ensured the AFP is set correctly and raised the friction point up a little it should feel much better then stock.

Let me know how it goes.

Thanks,
Ryan@RJM

Review: RJM AFP Clutch Pedal System
 

I think my problem is with the lock nut behind clevis and rod counter. I have no idea what any of that means.

The only pieces I have seen that were adjustable were the slider that moves the pedal up and down vertically. This had to be in the lowest position for me so that the clutch cylinder rod was aligned at a proper angle so that the seals don't wear out prematurely as stated in the instructions. The second one is the knob, the knob does not change the engagement point though.

I checked I do have about 1.5 inches of clearance, just that engagement point takes even more force to push and is shorter than stock.

Kamillio, yes the AFP adjusting knob most certainly does affect the engagement point and the feel. As I stated before you'll need to go back and readjust both the AFP to the correct starting point of 70% following the directions I've posted above (or from the guide) and also increase the clutch rod adjustment to raise the pedal height.

The 3 main adjustment points are:
1) The Red Knob which controls AFP setting. The AFP affects both the feel of the engagement width, the firmness of the pedal and indirectly affects how low the friction point is. Increasing AFP makes the pedal Softer, Engagement Smoother and Friction Point Lower.
Saying your pedal is currently harder then stock to press means your AFP setting isn't set correctly. When setup to 70-80% the pedal will be softer to press then stock and wider engagement zone.

2.) The clutch rod that threads into the clevis fork. This rod threads in deeper to directly make the friction point and overall pedal height lower. Threading it out makes the friction point higher and overall pedal height higher. Use a 12mm wrench and loosen the locknut to adjust this. Once the nut is loose turn the rod clockwise (when facing the firewall) to raise the engagement point. Then tighten the nut again before testing the new engagement height.

3.) The whole center section of the pedal assembly moves up and down to adjust the angle of the clutch rod to ensure it pushes the master cylinder rod as straight as possible. It's preferable for the rod to be setup to be level at mid stroke and just slightly above level with the pedal full up. Because the pedal linkage travels in an arc about a center point the linkage moves downward as it rotates thru it's stroke. So the linkage will start slightly above level and dip to be straight at mid-stroke and then rise slightly up again at the bottom of the stroke.

As well after the above changes you'll need to ensure that the upper cruise control switch isn't holding the pedal arm down, stopping it from returning fully up. Adjust the two nuts on the switch so that with the pedal fully up the switch button is fully pressed and the white bumper just lightly touches the metal body of the switch.

Kamillio, make sure that you loosen the 3/16 socket head AFP lock screw BEFORE adjusting the red knob. If the AFP is locked by the screw the adjustment won't work.

My install resulted in a near perfect clutch pedal.

Thank you Ryan@RJM and TBatt, I will check and adjust my pedal sometime soon when I'll find the time, cause for now Z is sitting anyway.

Hey Ryan@RJM my pedal is very soft for the first half of the throw in the morning but stiffens up as I build some heat. I'm just confirming my thoughts. Does it sound like I need to bleed the clutch? I'm wondering if I may have bubbles somewhere.

I just changed the fluid in the clutch system and found out that you MUST adjust the AFP setting to 0 (turn the adjusting knob fully clockwise). Ryan put a note at the beginning of the instructions about this so don't forget to loosen the lock screw and turn the knob clockwise until it stops. After bleeding the system, turn the knob counter-clockwise about seven turns and re-tighten the lock screw using a 3/16 allen wrench.

Also, be aware that the cast aluminum cross member has some very sharp flashing on it. Check and see before sticking your arm up there. I was getting red fluid dripping off of my elbow which was brake fluid mixed with blood. The metal was super sharp so I didn't feel the cuts. A little 80 grit sandpaper fixed the problem for me.

Good evening, this is a classic case of the master cylinder not fully returning and causing fluid to be trapped on the high pressure side of the master cylinder. When the car sits overnight the fluid in the line contracts causing the squishy pedal feel until the car warms up causing the fluid to expand again and feel normal. There is a tiny fluid port inside the MC that allows fluid to flow between the reservoir and the high side of the system which is only open when the master cylinder is 100% up and closes upon the slightest amount of MC travel down the piston bore. The port staying closed causes the feel you're describing.

Two main causes for this are:
1) the upper cruise control switch adjusted too tight holding the pedal down slightly. This keeps the port closed all the time leading to changing pedal feel from cold to hot.
2.) if the two side tension bolts that take up side-side play in the pedal are adjusted too tight the pivot bearings will have extra drag and the pedal may not fully return to the top under it's own power 100% of the time. This can cause the feeling you describe to happen either randomly or all the time depending on how tight the bearings are.

To check for this is easy. Go under the dash and press the pedal down by hand then release the pedal very very slowly. Then note where it stops on its own. Did it go all the way to the top and hit the upper switch firmly? If so likely the switch is set too tight. If it stopped short of pressing the switch and you can pull it up more by hand after it stopped then the bearings are too tight. In this case loosen the two side tension bolts evenly a 1/4 turn each and retest. Do this until the pedal comes fully up when releasing slowly.

That should take care of it.

Also TBatt made a good point about setting the AFP to zero for doing a full bleed. This is needed to push the highest volume of fluid thru the system and to ensure the MC goes full stroke to get all the air out of it. There is one exception here though - you only need to do this if you have air in the system you need to get out. Such as when you've had the system opened up to replace something. If just doing a simple clutch fluid flush for maintenance with one person pumping the pedal and another opening/closing the bleed screw then you don't need to adjust AFP first since there shouldn't be any trapped air you need out.
That note Is mostly just for guys or shops who installed the pedal along with a new clutch, CSC, clutch line or MC at the same time which is quite common.

Ryan, I'm glad you pointed the cruise control switch adjustment out. From what you are saying it looks like when I adjusted my switch I may have set it incorrectly. While I was trying to flush the clutch fluid I could not get any flow through the system until I set the AFP to zero. Then it pumped the fluid like it was supposed to. Back when I did my first test drive the cruise control would not engage so I set the switch so that the rubber pad was touching the metal part of the switch which may have been a little too much. I'll go back through the switch adjustment again.

Thanks for your helpful advise! :bowdown:

TBatt, you're very welcome:tup:

I will check it this coming weekend when I do maintenance. Thank you sir !:tiphat:

So I've had the RJM Clutch pedal on my car ever since I bought it, but today it wouldn't crank!

Kept saying push in clutch, which I did several times, but no go! I had to pump the clutch a few times for it to finally detect it.

Any idea if the RJM Clutch pedal is affecting it? Someone said to check the clutch return spring.

Hi DarkPhantom, this sounds like one of two things. Either the safety start switch is going bad or it needs to be adjusted. Push the pedal down by hand and look at the lower switch to see if it's being depressed fully when the pedal is down. If not that is your answer. If it is being fully pressed the switch is going bad and they're about $14 at the dealership or Courtesy Nissan Parts online.

This won't have anything to do with the return spring or the upper switch.

i just install the RJM on my 370z TT .
i had one problem now. with high RPM and full boost above 6500rpm i can not shift hard or fast it seems like something lock between the gears . the only way
to shift is to remove full my foot from the accelerator and full clutch press rpm goes down thin i can shift happens with all gears .

any help or idea .

Hi Kmsb3001, sounds like not enough disengagement stroke for your clutch setup at high RPM's. What clutch setup are you running?
I would recommend increasing the clutch rod setting a bit to raise the friction point a little at a time and test if that allows shifting under the same conditions. If not I would try reducing the AFP setting a bit as well to see if that makes the difference. The clutch isn't fully disengaging and causing some drag which is magnified at high RPM causing the gear lock outs.

Let me know how it goes.

Ryan@RJM

Ryan,

The car has CSC kit and Spec twin clutch .we already adjust but still same problem.

CSC kit - is this a HD CSC or the CSC Eliminator?

How did you adjust it when trying to resolve this?
Specifically what AFP setting did you have to start?
What AFP setting did you adjust it down to?
How high was the friction point off the floor initially?
How high did you go in testing?

I would setup the AFP to 0% (Knob fully clockwise until the plates retract fully towards you) This will be same as the stock pedal assembly for stroke. Next adjust it to a high friction point like stock. Does it still cause the same issue setup this way?
If so you will have the same problem with the stock pedal and its likely a problem with the clutch itself, MC or CSC.

If not then start from 0% and increase the AFP setting 10% at a time until you find the maximum your clutch can handle while also lowering the friction point a little each time.

I'm guessing there is something else going on with your clutch setup as in my experience 99% of people with a Twin plate clutch can typically run a full 100% AFP and a pretty low engagement without running into the issues your describing.

Mine just arrived today :) woot woot