All of the hardware used in the RJM Pedals is common imperial nuts and bolts. The bolts in question are 3" long 1/4-20's and require a 7/16 *or* 11mm wrench. That way people can use which ever they have on hand in their tools boxes. You can also use a 7/16 socket without any issue on these openly accessable bolts. These are used on the side tension bolts that lock the sliding center section and also adjust the side-side tension on the fulcrum shaft bearings.

OK, thanks. I don't know where the hell my imperial wrenches went, but I had a 11mm socket that worked fine as you said. Got it installed and it feels great. I set it to the basic all the way counter clockwise minus 3 turns base level and didn't feel the need to do any any readjustment. Thanks for the great product and you are really on the ball with answering questions. :tiphat:

RHD compatibility
 

I wonder if this is compatible with RHD 6MT 370Z's?

MIX370Z, Unfortunately that's a question I've been trying to sort out for several months now and so far have struck out trying to get anything out of Australia. Several guys where going to take detailed photos of their RH OEM pedal assemblies for me to see what if anything was different but its been months and they never got back to me with anything. As well I've not been able to get my hands on a factory RH pedal so I can develop one for the RH Guys if it is different. I've contact several wrecking yards in Australia but they either completely ignored my emails or didn't have anything:confused: Even Nisswrecks which is supposed to be a large dealer and wrecker for Nissan specific parts couldn't be bothered to respond to me after several attempts to contact them.

Would you be interested in helping out by taking some detailed photos under your dash? I'd need some good overall shots, a shot of the upper pedal arm area and where it mounts to the firewall to tell for sure how different they might be.

Installed mine today very easy but easier if you remove the plastic knee bolster and bolt on metal plate under it for easier access.

Definitely allot better than before and I'm on a stock clutch,shifting is easier smoother,plus taking off from a stop is smoother.

It reminds me of a cable operated clutch.

Love it thanks Ryan :tiphat:

Sweet! How's the shift from 1st to 2nd?

Smooth and fast :tup:

For a lack of better words, does this pedal make the clutch feel more "honda" or "s2000" like? (eg: lower engagement, smoother push)

Jooonnn replied to your email as well :)

Yes lower engagment and yes smoother clutch action. The new pedal will both soften the pedal, widen out the engagement zone for better modulation and will let you freely lower the friction point right down to the floor if you wish. The effect is very pronounced and the adjustability lets you dial it in to suit your driving style. All in all it’ll make the clutch in your Nismo feel much less harsh and be much easier to modulate smoothly.

Best Regards,
Ryan@RJM

I am looking forward to installing mine. I think the week after next...

Anybody had any issues getting the clutch cancel and brake switches to sync after install of this pedal? I just got my G back from like the 6th visit to the dealer and finally after replacing both clutch and brake cancel, and several efforts of the tech trying to sync them all with Consult, everything is finally good.

I'm real apprehensive to buy one of these pedals if you have to switch the clutch switches over to the new pedal.

No Problems here, I think it is more important that you get the switches in the exact right place for the bumpers to hit so that you don't break them during spirited shifting

Not sure what strange electrical issue you've had with you're G but there is no reprogramming or syncing of the switches involved in the the pedal install in any way. These switches are simply momentary contact buttons that are only active while being pushed in. The upper cruise cancel switch signals the cruise to turn off as soon as the button isn't being pressed and the lower safety switch only allows the starter to engage while the button is being pressed down. The only adjustments neccessary are setting the switch depths like NOS3LN mentioned so that the switches just get pressed by the rubber pads with pedal up and pedal down by threading the lock nuts up/down to adjust.

No dealership computer programming should ever be required.

No electrical issues. The dealer had to replace the brake and clutch cancel switches. The tech made me drive around while he had Consult plugged in to make sure everything was synced properly. He told me it was a real pita to make sure they were synced.

jwick, you should be all good then. Like I said the switches simply make contact at either end of the pedal travel with neither having any effect for the vast majority of the pedal stroke so I'm not sure what he truly means when he said "synced" them other than making sure the ECU was registering their expected inputs with pedal full up and pedal full down. I know the ECU will freak out and throw a bunch of dash warning lights if you try to engage cruise control with the pedal partly down or a faulty cruise switch causing no signal to be sent confusing the computer. So he was likely confirming thru Consult the switches were indeed sending correct info to the computer. Had the saftey switch been bad the car simply would not start but wouldn't throw any codes or warnings since a bad safety switch wouldn't complete the circuit telling the ECU it's safe to start, just as if someone forgets to press the clutch fully in before hitting the start button on the dash.

Hope that helps:tiphat:

Ordered! Excited to install it asap!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

:tup:

My Z won't start simply by pushing IN the pedal down switch, you must first move the pedal OFF the Pedal up switch THEN press IN the Pedal down switch before cranking will occur. I don't see how they could be synchronized if it's a foot doing the pushing!
The reason I know is I wanted to put in a pedal down bypass switch and was doing some experimenting.

Must be a deliberate safety feature Nissan wrote into the ECU's code for the push button startup as it would be very easy to bypass the clutch safety otherwise by holding the switch down or simply unplugging it and putting a jumper wire across the contacts. The ECU watches the inputs of both switch circuits and won't do a start sequence unless both conditions are met at the same time (Cruise OFF, Start ON)

I just bought this last weekend and it will be delivered this weekend.
ill share review after installation.. i can't wait !!! lol

Drove a few miles so far and definitely notice a NIGHT and DAY difference for the better. Still tweaking it a little so the review will come later.

Question Ryan: Looking at other review pics and whatnot, it looks like the clutch pedal isn't an EXACT "leveled with the pedal" as the instructions ask. When i installed it i found at the 70% afp prescribed setting it was still a hair higher than the brake pedal. I also notice the oem clutch rod only has a few turns of adjustment too. Does this sound normal? I'd imagine higher AFP makes the pedal slightly higher too (but still reducing engagement point).

Jooonnn, glad to hear you're enjoying your RJM pedal:tup:
Don't focus on where the pedal height is while setting up the engagement and friction points using the AFP setting + clutch rod. The only thing that matters at that stage is if you're comfortable with how its engaging. Once you get it how you like it the 2pc modular pedal arm has a 3rd adjustment point that allows the pedal pad to be adjusted ~3/4" up or down from centered and is completely independent of the upper arm adjustments which will allow you to exactly level the clutch to the brake if you want or anywhere else you wish:driving:

The factory master cylinder rod is limited in number the threads for adjustment but there should be enough to find a sweet spot.

Installed this today.. and definitely a lot better than before. I'm on a stock clutch btw. Shifting 1st and 2nd is like butter. No more jerking or anything.

Engagement point and clutch itself got lowered a lot.
I recommend this clutch pedal assmebly for those who cant get used to the stock clutch pedal!!

You won't regret !! Trust me!!

Just ordered. Can't wait to install it and melt the old assembly just for spite!

installed the Pedal System last weekend, took me 3 hours including coffee break and adjustment afterwards.
Looks like a nicely made piece of kit.

It definitely makes a huge difference in drivability, especially starting and shifting from 1st to 2nd gear.
The pedal travel from the point of engagement to the point where it is fully engaged increased by a lot and feels like a more linear curve of bite, so it is much easier to handle.

One note though, the instructions could use some more pictures, i spent quite some time looking at the thing to figure out how it goes together, it is pretty self-explanatory though, once you put the parts in the footwell there really is only one way it will work.

Aaaaaand first mod ordered.

First off a big THANK YOU to Ryan! I am guessing against doctors orders he was in the shop getting my order produced and sent out, even though I said no
hurry. :tup:
I suggest start taking yoga classes at least a month prior to attempting install. :icon17:
This is also one time that reading the instructions before hand a couple of times will help out while you are laying on your back under the dash. Get familiar with the parts and everything will be a breeze.
The only trouble I had was aligning the pin that goes through the new fork and and the pedal arm. If I had to do it again I would mark the hole on the pedal arm with a paint pen for a quick visual reference. A bendy neck flashlight was a god sent gift too.
Pedal feels awesome, easy gear changes and 1-2 is perfect for me. This should have been my first mod. :driving:

:tup:

About to purchase one to try for myself. Benefits seem to be covered very well in this thread... but... is there any chance this mod will reduce the "tapping" and strange sensations I get through my stock clutch pedal?

These two threads pretty much sum up what I'm talking about:
the370z.com - Clutch Tapping
the370z.com - Clutch Noise

I can't seem to find a definitive cause or solution for this on the forums - some say it's due to the stock pedal, others say it's the CMC/CSC/throwout bearing/shaft issue, and some say it's normal. At least one member said the dealership replaced the clutch assembly and that that fixed it, but it began to happen again after some time.

Honestly, I'm still going to purchase regardless if this upgrade will stop the strange tapping sensation or not. Just curious what to expect. Doesn't seem like anyone else has mentioned this yet as part of the review.

[UPDATE]

Unfortunately, I had stuff come up. Had to cancel.

What I can say is that Ryan was all over it and refunded within a couple hours. That is customer service. And when I am ready to do this later, I will have no problems coming back and trying again.

Thanks Ryan.

jk

Anyone in the DMV are have experience installing this mod? I and just about ready to order but don't fully trust myself on doing the install on my new car...but don't necessarily want to pay a shop 2+ hours of labor to have this done.

Any suggestions would be appreciated and I'd definitely be up for compensating you for your time.

Thanks!

Hope you find someone to lend a hand. It really is a very straight forward install though. I was nervous about ripping into the clutch items myself at first but when I got going, it was a breeze. Climbing in and out from under the dash 20 times sucked the worst. I am a fat *** too so that did not help the situation either :icon17:

TL;DR If this fat, old man can do it, so can you. :driving:

:icon17:

That is good to know, cuz I resemble those remarks. Fat and age tend to put a crimper in flexibility. :ugh2:

Yoga, start NOW :rofl2:
It wasn't THAT bad. If I had to do it over again I would have tools in the footwell with me rather than sitting nicely laid out on the bench :icon17:

Not sure I would be able to bring off the yoga pants. :eek:

:icon17:

Haha thanks for the vote of confidence. My mechanical knowledge goes as far as installing pads and rotors...so I'm definitely not a pro, but if the hardest part is getting in and out from under the dash, maybe I might just give it a go.

Definitely not a difficult install except for the cramped working conditions.

You'll be fine. :tup: