Just finished my install and drive home from my buddies house. WOW! love this new pedal. As far as the tapping feedback, I had it before and I still have it now so, its not the pedal assembly. It must be feedback from the CSC/CMC

Recently put this on my car, nothing new to add that hasn't already been said. Awesome product that truly benefits the driver. Most of us had some issue with the stock clutch pedal feel, and most have gotten comfortable with it. However, it doesn't have to be soo touchy and require so much focus to be smooth. Additionally, for taller drivers, this adds to the general comfort of the vehicle by moving the engagement window and starting pedal posistion lower (adjustable of course). Oh, and customer service, top notch.

just got a black 09 370z sport pkg and installing rjm afp clutch pedal is going to be the first mod.


PS: still waiting for mine

Hi. I installed the rjm clutch pedal as well
And I am lost how to adjust to settings
How do you adjust AFP? Which bolt do I need to loosen or turn? My clutch engages soooo early.
Like less than an inch. This is not normal for sure...
So could someone help me?

david 77845 ... I've alerted Ryan at RJM that you're having problems adjusting the pedal assembly. I expect that he'll be in touch with you within the next day or two. Ryan is the best person to provide advice since he designed and manufactures the assembly. You can contact him yourself at ryan@RJMperformance.com.

40 to 332 thanks, I've tried to be patient and already emailed David no less then 5 times in the past 3 days on how to adjust what he needs. I've explained it in detail multiple times to answer his questions and directed him to follow the install guide steps but he still hasn't followed my instructions :horse:

David, your (5+) emails this afternoon have been replied to... I just got home from work as I work full time days as a Mechanical Engineer in addition to operating RJM and couldn't respond this afternoon.

I outlined exactly what you needed to do in detail in my email to you last night and directed you to the correct section of the install guide to follow on how to raise the friction point by adjusting the clutch rod setting. Now that you've wrongly increased the AFP setting to MAX today instead of adjusting the clutch rod per my emails you'll need to adjust the AFP back down again to be able to get proper disengagement with your factory clutch. This is partly why your engagement is extremely low to borderline not disengaging at all right now. It should be set to between 7 to 8 full turns from fully clockwise as I specified in my email yesterday.

I've directed you in multiple emails to adjust the threaded clutch rod outwards to correct this but at this time I don't believe you've done that so I would highly recommend at this time getting help from a local mechanic, install shop or mechanically minded friend to help you correct the problems that currently exist from not following the installation guides setup instructions carefully.

Respectfully
Ryan@RJM

I got everything settled. I just wanted to know if I got everything right. At this point, the clutch engages a little more than an inch which I believe it is right. AFP was turned c.cwise 7 full turns and the rod is perfect now.
Thank you

i got mine in mail today, i can't wait until i get to install into my car.

I'm sold. I just ordered. Tried the spring swap, but I still hate the way the stock clutch feels.

Ordered Monday, shipped on Tuesday and should be here Saturday or Monday.

Enjoy guys! I love it. One of the best mods I have purchased. :driving:

finally installed rjm clutch pedal assembly, pedal feel sooooo good!!! money well spent!!!

370zSTL, I'm very happy to hear you got it installed and are enjoying it! :tup:

Just purchased mine yesterday... Can't wait to install it!

Went in for one as well on the October sale. Excited to try this out. Will post more when it's in.

You know what would be the best name for an october sale? the "got to drunk at Oktoberfest and accidentally lowered the price too much, buy now while you still can sale"

Lol. In that case I want to see a much lower price.

Question, the the instructions it says that 7 full turns should be the initial setup. Can the AFP settings be less than 7 turns with OEM clutch?

Yup. You can adjust the pedal as much as you want with the OEM clutch. The 7 turns is just the setting that makes the engagement action similar to the stock engagement. I have mine adjusted to around 3 turns with the stock clutch.

Yes, as Jarblue already noted you can adjust the pedal any way you want as the 7 turns is just the initial setup point which is pretty much guaranteed to get 99% of customers up and running first shot. From there you can fine tune however you want as long as you pass the disengagement tests as outlined at the end of the install guide and the initial friction point (on a flat surface) shouldn't be less then about 1.5" up from the floor. This ensures you always get enough stroke for complete disengagement.

Hope that helps!

Ryan@RJM

Thank you andOne last question!
it says that the clutch pedal needs to be parallel to the brake pedal..
But same as in depth-wise? Or height-wise?
right now, my clutch is slightly pushed up than the brake pedal. I just wanna know if this is correct.
Thank you

That would be height wise roughly level. You can loosen the 3-bolt connection between the upper and lower pedal arm sections to allow the pedal pad to raise or lower about 3/4" to fine tune if you want or can leave it. Otherwise being roughly level with the brake pedal +/-1/2" or so is just another of those initial starting reference points and can be adjusted however you wish within the limits of adjustment after install.

Really looking forward to purchasing one of these! Been frustrated with the small engagement window of my stock set-up since I bought it.

I had the RJM Performance adjustable clutch pedal installed today, and it is a night-and-day difference from stock. I haven't fully fine-tuned it yet, but this is exactly how a clutch should feel. At 70% (which is the recommended starting point), the clutch effort required is greater, which is appropriate for the 370Z, but at the same time, the feel is much better. Also, the engagement point is closer to the floor, and its window is more predictable/repeatable.

The unanimous praise this clutch pedal has received is well-deserved. As someone else has written, you will wonder why you waited so long to get rid of the stock clutch pedal. I ordered the RJM pedal three days after getting my 370Z. My prior car was a 2007 350Z, and in my opinion, that car's OEM clutch is a bit better than the 370's. I got used to it over the seven years I owned it, but it was by no means great or even good. However, the 370's clutch is borderline intolerable/unacceptable unless you drive the car very gingerly or deliberately.

Further, I want to reiterate how excellent Ryan's customer service is. My experience has been exactly what others have reported. Ryan has answered all of my emails in an timely fashion (within a day at most), and his replies have been extremely detailed and relevant to all of my questions. He does not gloss over anything and goes the extra mile to explain everything in easy-to-understand language. Ryan is simply outstanding, and he deserves the recognition.

So to anyone who is considering replacing the OEM helper spring with the Century spring or even removing it altogether, I implore you not to waste your time with either of those mods; they are Band-Aid fixes at best. Just go all the way and get it done right the first time. Yes, the RJM clutch pedal costs considerably more than a replacement spring, but it is so worth it. Think about how many times you engage/disengage your clutch every time you drive the car. It is such an important interaction point with the car that changing over to the RJM clutch pedal alters the character of the car and transforms it to what it should have been from the factory. Being able to shift gears properly will exponentially increase your enjoyment of your Z.

^^^
So ... there it is.

Mine lanquishes on my desk waiting for the down time to install. This winter sounds good.

Having installed my pedal a couple weeks ago and driving a handful of times since, I couldn't agree more or be more delighted with the way it's changed the drivability of the car. Night and day is no exaggeration. I'd done the spring removal then spring replacement and it was better but I still had to drive with intent and focus which took away from enjoyment.

Installation went pretty easy and the build quality is easily better than OEM. You'll laugh at the size of the assembly you pull out and all the space that's freed up.

Engagement is butter smooth and predictable, it's no longer at the top of the swing and the clutch/car seems to be happier with it as well. The shifts, load on the tranny and power delivery are all vastly improved. Even with an after market clutch and flywheel, first and second starts are very smooth and you can easily inch the car forward without feeling like it's going to die.

Having driven a stick most of my driving life, I thought I'd lost my MOJO with this one and honestly was pretty disappointed. Now I'm extremely happy and look forward to the opportunity to drive it each time.

This is hands down the best money anyone could spend on their Z. Everything else comes secondary to the few items that tie the driver to the car. Thank you RJM Performance for engineering an amazing product, making it budget friendly and for being a great detailed oriented "good guy" to boot. I would buy this again many times over.

Don't hesitate guys....buy it! You'll be ashamed at what you've been missing.

It really is a great mod, you will wonder why didn't I install this sooner. :tup:

NoHyperbole, Crypto2k and Madwii Thank you all very much for sharing your experiences and you're Very Welcome! I'm extremely happy to hear your enjoying my humble product and the improvements it makes to the driving experience as a whole. I'm happy I can do my part to support the cars I love and the great group of guys who own them.:driving:

NoHyperbole, Hopefully you received my reply email the other morning to your adjustment question in regards to getting the clutch rod lined up after that AFP setting change. Let me know if there's anything else you need.

Enjoy and Have a Great Weekend Guys! :tiphat:

Now i have a question that needs to be answered,

The pedal that i have received is v2.0, now i have assembled it and just tried it out to see how it worked without putting on the car. It seems to me that the plates on the side of the assembly that can be adjusted for pedal distance have a little grease on them and are used to compress the pedal assembly together. I found that the compression of these plates also puts pressure on the brass/copper bushings and restricts the pedal to move ie. Coming back from pressed position, also it seems that if i release the bolts torque in order to let the pedal move freely ie. Clutch in, clutch out, puts less pressure on the plates with grease to hold the pedal adjustment in place. So will the pedal stay in its designated set position over a long period of time use, due to less torqued bolts where the pedal moves freely, cuz it seems to me it wont hold its point of set for too long?

DoomMonkey, Yes this mechanism both locks the sliding track for adjusting the clutch rod angle and allows setting the exact side-tension required on the main bearings to reduce any side-side play in the pedal arm. Its worked flawlessly for 3 years now in multiple product designs without any issues of loosing height adjustment.
Now when you tightened these bolts did you follow the Install Guide Specific Procedure for Tightening these bolts or did you just crank them down tight without regard for the tension setting procedure? These bolts can absolutely lock the pedal arm bearings solid if you don't follow procedure which is what I suspect you where doing while bench testing.

The sliding track plates have so much surface area spread over 6 friction surfaces they act much like a quadruple plate clutch... where very little pressure plate force is required to generate a large holding capacity. Similarly the bracket needs very little bolt tension to result in a very large holding force on those plates, so much in fact these plates are already too stiff to move by hand by a 1/4 turn past where the lock washers are just compressed and then you still have several more turns before the bearings start to tighten up.

Finally once installed and set correctly the paint on the bearing surfaces will wear off and the bearings will break in after a day or two of driving to make them slightly looser yet after install.

So I have no worries that it'll function flawlessly once installed following the guide instructions.

Ok i understand, well i had to ask because i tightened the bolts using a socket in order to gab the bolt and my hand fingers to torque it down as tight as i could and tried the pedal it was stuck the spring couldn't bring it back up, this is where i stopped the installation thinking it might be defective also in my mind knowing that the clutch would apply extra pressure to the pedal in order to bring it back, caused me to think about how much torque to apply vs pedal position vs pedal return.

clutch pedal issue
 

did the installation and followed the instructions, did the adjustment but my clutch rod had maybe a 1/4 turn available the lock nut would bottom out the fork so the threads couldn't turn, testing first is beautiful but upon leaving the shop and hitting the road if I give any moderate gas I get no power in return/ clutch slipping, I figure this is my throw out bearing not completely releasing? what do I need to adjust or fix in the fork/clutch rod. abs and trac control light kicked on probably telling me this as well its at home and need some info on what needs adjusted.

McLovin,

Thanks for the email/post and I’m sorry to hear you’re having some issues. I work a full time day job in addition to running RJM evenings/weekends building these assemblies for customers in my spare time, so I’m sorry for just getting back now.

My first thought is something doesn’t sound right about your installation and I’m wondering if you installed the two white plastic firewall spacers?

If you have the AFP at 70% recommended setting and the clevis screwed completely in then your engagement should be right down at the floor or not even be able to get into gear let alone be still pushing on the throw out bearing.
The RJM pedal design unlike the factory pedal can in no way push on your throwout bearing causing slipping when the pedal is released full up and master cylinder fully returned.

The factory assembly is like a compound bow where if you push a little ways it snaps down and stays there, that is what causes slippage with the factory pedal however the RJM pedal is a linear return spring and always trying to release the TOB no matter where you are in pedal travel.

There are only two ways the RJM pedal could hold your master cylinder down and both would present an obvious problem during install or have to be done against the instgructions. The first would be to turn the clutch rod fully out (extends the fork) while simultaneously adjusting the upper switch down tighter. This would push the master cylinder rod down and would partially engage the TOB against the clutch if done to the extreme. However you’ve indicated you turned the clutch rod fully in (shortening it) which would lower your pedal making this very unlikely.

Secondly would be leaving out the white spacers which would make the entire bracket move closer to the firewall then it was designed for. This condition would artificially make the clutch rod seem way too long and you’d likely have to push the MC rod down to even get the clevis pin to line up thru the arm and the pedal would be Extremely High.

Can you give me more details about what you did during the install?

Right now if the clutch is truly slipping under power (RPMS spike or bounce off the rev limiter when the clutch lets go) then it may be your clutch, not the pedal at all and only coincidence your now noticing it today. The ABS and TCS lights being on when it happens are interesting as I don’t think the car would care if the engine reved without moving as the ECU isn’t looking for clutch slip or it would come on every time you slipped the clutch too much taking off or rev matching a downshift.

Are you sure you weren’t actually spinning a wheel when it was happening causing the TCS to rightfully engage and taking away your throttle control while it stopped the wheel spin?

Let me know your thoughts.

Ryan Morgan
RJM Performance Inc.

Installed my pedal today, (and a little work last night). Love it! Much smoother engagement than stock. I set it at 70 percent and left the three bolt connection right in the middle. Travel and engagement are right where I want it. That being said, if I ever have to work in my footwell again I may just drive the car off a cliff. My back is wrecked. Lol

Ryan, excellent job! You ought to market them to Nissan as to what actually NEEDS to be in this car from the factory.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Teddy KGB I'm very happy to hear your install went well and you're enjoying the new pedal system:tup: I know what you mean about working in the foot well of the Z, the tight working space is the worst part of this install but I think the increased enjoyment of the vehicle afterwards makes it all worth it:driving:
It's funny you should say that, I've spoken to a few guys who work as Engineers for Nissan and they've purposely made the G/Z's feel the way they do so I don't see them changing ways any time soon... Which is good for me lol;)

Installed my kit yesterday. As others have said, other than the work-space, installation is very straightforward. Took me maybe 2.5 hours at a very relaxed pace. I still need to spend some time playing with my settings to get it exactly to my liking, but my shifts while moving are extremely smooth now. For some reason my pedal is not fully returning when my foot is off the pedal. For me the overall pedal feel is a bit mushy. I am convinced this is due to me not having dialed in the settings to my liking yet. Sent an e-mail to Ryan to get some guidance with my pedal travel and set up.

Skycraper, email replied to:tup:
Short version - The issues with the pedal not returning and poor/mushy feel you're having are almost certainly due to the side tension bolts being over torqued causing the main bearings to be pinched and binding them up. See my long winded email for the play by play of how to get it better dialed in.

Best Regards,
Ryan@RJM

Muchos Gracias! She's driving like butter!

Awesome! I'm glad to hear that got it all cleared up for you:tup::driving:

Hey guys
I'm going to order one up very soon ;)

Since I've got a bad back to start with...going to unhook the batt and remove the seat for easier beer drinking too :tup: