:iagree: take plenty of videos before and after for exhaust note and such!

video's are already up. sounds stock

Boo!, I can't even listen to them here! What are the results? I can't see pictures either, but if you can briefly explain, you'd be helping me out.

Huh? Where? Link?

Circuit concept put the jun cams in their car. clips are actually in this thread.

Sounds good if it goes well I might put these in too.

Props to navyboy doing it but we need someone else to do this with dyno access.

yea NA all the way, pictures of the cams?

I haven't hard that...? Link?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I897 using Tapatalk 2

bump for results !

:confused:

Engines don't blow from being rich. 14 is lean which will def blow a motor up. I have a Tt setup and I'd only do this mod if it sounded good. I could just turn the boost knob up for power so these cams if they do work well will mainly be for NA setups. Or built motors that want to retain the vvel and be more efficient with airflow.

Unless you owned the TT370Z, it's difficult to completely understand the relationship the owner had with GTM, whether the owner was an idiot and went against advice, or it was retuned, and done incorrectly. Only a complete moron would push 14:1 AFR on any vehicle, let alone on a turbo car.

Please just stay on topic as a lot of us can care less about how you feel about GTM and more about your results :)

Could not agree more. I saw that comment and was preparing for the derailment.

You want to install cams because you are worried about FI reliability and having access to shops/dynos that you can trust?

As previously stated, you WANT to run rich. As rich as possible within reasonable limits. Running stoichiometric in general is never wanted, that's just the chemistry talking, and doesn't actually apply all that well in a motor vehicle. I'm sure a race engine (where blowing up is typically expected) could run stoich, but only with some pretty good engine reinforcement.

That said, nothing is more reliable than an NA car at similar build levels. NA-T cars are never a better choice than staying NA. Less parts to break, no possibility of boost leak or surge, less chance of blown gaskets, etc. etc.

your motor from the factory is the most reliable. opening up and installing these cams will bring the level of reliability down. if reliability is what you seek run things within limits and make sure the person doing the work is competent and make sure you yourself has a level of competency that you know what limits are. A turbo motor at a small amount of boost on a oem motor is more reliable then tearing the heads down and replacing the exaust cams or cams in general.

:iagree:

Doing cams on a car with VVEL is a big thing. If anything your car will be less reliable than a low-boost build.

It's very easy to say a boosted car running 500 horsepower is less reliable. A single turbo set up or a twin turbo set up at 3 or 4 pounds of boost will easily run close to if not 400whp very very safe. Boosted cars need extra up keep like regular boost testing and making sure your afr is in limits. I myself is pretty scary about opening the motor. That vid in the beginning definitely shys me away. It pretty much sounds stock.

modifying cams is not a new thing, even in Nissan motors they have been doing this mod for a long time. Why would opening up the heads (which I don't think you need to in this case) cause any problems?? Look at the VQ35 motors, ppl have opened them up more than once changing cams, springs, valves, etc. When someone builds the motor they have to disassemble lot of components including the VVEL assembly and have been reassembled back using the same VVEL. Of course its not a Cold air intake you're installing but shouldn't be a problem if done right.
Of course its a PITA changing the cams but it is doable and more reliable than running FI.
From what I read NavyBoy is taking it to a Nissan dealership, am sure they would've someone skillful enough to open it otherwise they would've turned it down. Good luck, looking forward to the results.

I've been to a lot of dealerships where they won;t touch modified vehicles, let alone install parts that are endorsed by them. Just because it's being installed by a Nissan dealer doesn't mean it's all going to be peachy. I hope it does, but I wouldn't use that as a rule of measurement. With the exhaust cams, it is advised by JUN to upgrade your valvetrain as well. I see this as just a big of a risk as going FI.

Not saying every Nissan dealer is going to do it but if they say they can do it, most likely will. Of course the labour won't be cheap at the dealership.

No valvetrain upgrade needed for this mod, AFAIK from JUN and Concept.

Here are some pics of the cams :happydance:

I know your excited!!!!

You're sportin' wood! :rofl2:

When do you think you will have these put in?

I am waiting for the dealership to give me a price to install I am going in today to check on it?

How much do they want?

Sub'd

The car is going in next weds to get the cams installed. They are charging me 1500.00 for the labor and the Nissan manual calls for two full days of work. They have to make sure the exhaust lifters are not to loose or two tight due to the increase duration of the cams

definitely looking forward to this.

I will let u know how it goes and any problems that they encounter

Awesome.

I want to see dyno results! I would imagine tuning is mandatory with these. I'm on the ropes in buying these, don't want to bite the bullet till I see results :P

He does not have a dyno in his city so we wont see real results. all that we will see from this is that the install went ok. And if he FEELS any added power

Has the mfg not done testing of these on a VQ37VHR?

Edit: Google is my friend: http://www.junauto.co.jp/news/enews000163.html

Looks like their test has a lot of supporting mods though. Their own custom tune, different pistons, different rods, different injectors, etc...

I didn't like their graph because it doesn't specify if it was crank or whp. Not only that, 12.3:1 compression is definitely having an effect. And who does engine mods like that and does nothing with intakes, LTH/TP/HFC, exhaust, etc? I want to see a real dyno sheet, not some plotted points.

I won't be able to give you dyno numbers sorry. I have been in contact with jun and actually they have created these cams to work in a stock motor. If any mod had to be done it should have been done in the head if the cam was to aggressive but it's made for the stock setup. The stock exhaust cams have a 264 duration and the jun cams are a 272 duration so I imagine some gain will be seen but it's not aggressive so don't expect massive gains.

cars going in tomorrow for these cams correct?

if these turn out to be great, we should get a group fund together to ship your car to a dyno lol

The car is already there I took it in yesterday