Transmission Issue After Track Day

SPOHN · 12-02-2011, 11:17 AM

Nice. Guess I need to search around to see who provides this service.

cossie1600 · 12-02-2011, 11:28 AM

search online there is Professional Cryogenic Metallurgy & Coatings,Atlanta,Georgia,Cryogenic,REM Gears,powder coating,ceramic coating,sandblasting,metal polishing some shops can also get rotors from their local store and charge you at their cost for the rotor plus the treatment. price has gone up quite a bit, it used to be 15 to 20, now its more like 30

ValidusVentus · 12-02-2011, 11:39 AM

@ coss' earlier question : well, two days, with 5 30-40 minute sessions per. Probably a total of about 5.5 hours track time.

ValidusVentus · 12-02-2011, 11:50 AM

I'll definitely look into that coss, thanks. In the mean time I'll see if the rotors get better or worse and pick out the LSD I want. Cars still driveable, as long as i don't force the LSD to actually do its job, it plays nice. Gonna call Forged this afternoon and see what they recommend.

SPOHN · 12-02-2011, 04:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ValidusVentus

I'll definitely look into that coss, thanks. In the mean time I'll see if the rotors get better or worse and pick out the LSD I want. Cars still driveable, as long as i don't force the LSD to actually do its job, it plays nice. Gonna call Forged this afternoon and see what they recommend.

If you end up with getting a LSD I recommend OS Giken. Cost a little more but well worth it. Mine has been wonderful. It defiantly has an edge over the rest just in its design. Forged installed mine. Tell them I sent you if you don't mind.

cossie1600 · 12-02-2011, 01:43 PM

you might get lucky and be able to clean the deposits off with some sandpaper and super aggressive pads. i was able to do so with mine when i didnt bed my xp8 in properly. i can lend you my xp10s for cleaning if you need them.

how do you know your lsd is toast? one wheel burnout is pretty normal with the viscous diff

ValidusVentus · 12-04-2011, 09:46 AM

Yeah I did call Forged and they have me pretty much set on getting an OSG if I get a diff, gonna get the car into a different shop (Forged is going to recommend one in my area) and get the rear end actually torn apart and looked at so i know for certain what this issue is before I spend a few thousand dollars. There's still a possibility that its one of my bearings. I'll let em know Spohn. Gonna do some more of my own research before I buy anything.

About the rotors, looks like you guys -not the dealership mechanic- were correct, I can already tell that they are getting a lot better, and after a few hard decels they seem pretty good now, looks like the pads are winning against the deposites.

Edit: Thx for the offer Coss, for now its not too bad (and hopefully still getting better) I do intend on buying more track oriented pads for my next track day and if need be I'll use those.

ValidusVentus · 12-04-2011, 05:13 PM

Ok, just had my front rotors machined lightly, completely solved the issue. Possibly I cooled them off to quickly by not using them much at all on a cooldown lap? Ill just have to be super attentive to my rotor temps in the future. There is thermal indicating paint on the rotors which permanently changes colors with temperature, and according to those I did not overheat the rotors themselves.

onzedge · 12-04-2011, 05:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ValidusVentus

Ok, just had my front rotors machined lightly, completely solved the issue. Possibly I cooled them off to quickly by not using them much at all on a cooldown lap? Ill just have to be super attentive to my rotor temps in the future. There is thermal indicating paint on the rotors which permanently changes colors with temperature, and according to those I did not overheat the rotors themselves.

Red__Zed · 12-04-2011, 05:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ValidusVentus

Ok, just had my front rotors machined lightly, completely solved the issue. Possibly I cooled them off to quickly by not using them much at all on a cooldown lap? Ill just have to be super attentive to my rotor temps in the future. There is thermal indicating paint on the rotors which permanently changes colors with temperature, and according to those I did not overheat the rotors themselves.

I'd put money on improper bedding. I'd focus on making sure the pads are bedded in properly before your next track day.

cossie1600 · 12-04-2011, 06:36 PM

I agree. I have done a lot of bad things to my rotors and they are fine.

SPOHN · 12-05-2011, 01:55 PM

Finally after a long stressful week I've got around to going over my car. First thing my dad and I did today was bleed my clutch. Soon as we started there was a good bit of air in there. Pretty shocked actually. I've bleed this several times before with no issues like this. Must have to be from the track day beating with a combination of moisture in the fluid.

Also I thought I had great pedal feel and I did but not like it was after bleeding the system. But all and all everything seems back to the norm. Shifting perfect and the notchness is gone. Maybe this will save me some dough for a little bit longer. I'd still like to hear some more input if you guys have any.

Also after looking at my brake pads I wore them babies half way out. Woot. Better get some more. I should get another good day out of them. Course there's not another track event till spring and I drive on the XP 8's. But not DD.

VQStryker · 12-05-2011, 04:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SPOHN

Finally after a long stressful week I've got around to going over my car. First thing my dad and I did today was bleed my clutch. Soon as we started there was a good bit of air in there. Pretty shocked actually. I've bleed this several times before with no issues like this. Must have to be from the track day beating with a combination of moisture in the fluid.

Also I thought I had great pedal feel and I did but not like it was after bleeding the system. But all and all everything seems back to the norm. Shifting perfect and the notchness is gone. Maybe this will save me some dough for a little bit longer. I'd still like to hear some more input if you guys have any.

Also after looking at my brake pads I wore them babies half way out. Woot. Better get some more. I should get another good day out of them. Course there's not another track event till spring and I drive on the XP 8's. But not DD.

great news! bet that was a relief

onzedge · 12-05-2011, 04:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by VQStryker

great news! bet that was a relief

ImportConvert · 12-07-2011, 06:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SPOHN

Finally after a long stressful week I've got around to going over my car. First thing my dad and I did today was bleed my clutch. Soon as we started there was a good bit of air in there. Pretty shocked actually. I've bleed this several times before with no issues like this. Must have to be from the track day beating with a combination of moisture in the fluid.

Also I thought I had great pedal feel and I did but not like it was after bleeding the system. But all and all everything seems back to the norm. Shifting perfect and the notchness is gone. Maybe this will save me some dough for a little bit longer. I'd still like to hear some more input if you guys have any.

Also after looking at my brake pads I wore them babies half way out. Woot. Better get some more. I should get another good day out of them. Course there's not another track event till spring and I drive on the XP 8's. But not DD.

A lot of 'vette owners have this issue. It's caused by clutch-dust getting into the fluid. If the 370Z has a dedicated clutch-fluid resivoir/system, then I bet this could be a lot of issue people have with synchro's going out. It's not necessarily the synchro's, but rather the fluid getting very dirty and eating the seals in the hydraulics up and causing issues shifting that would feel like synchro's going out.

My solution is to suck the fluid out of the resivoir with a 60cc syringe and replace it every time I get gas. Fluid stays clean, hydraulics fresh, shifting smooth.

So many people spending a LOT of money they don't have to on new hydraulics, etc. because they don't do this in the GM world. I am thinking maybe the 370Z is similar, as the mechanics of a hydraulic clutch are somewhat universal. Could be wrong, but it's something to look into. IT got so bad that one guy sent of his clutch-fluid to be analyzed, and yes,there was a lot of clutch dust in it.

Just a thought.

12-02-2011, 11:17 AM	#1 (permalink)
SPOHN A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Covington, GA Age: 45 Posts: 14,844 Drives: Waiting on next Z Rep Power: 221	Nice. Guess I need to search around to see who provides this service. __________________

12-02-2011, 11:39 AM	#3 (permalink)
ValidusVentus Enthusiast Member Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Washington State Posts: 400 Drives: #18 Z34 Rep Power: 22	@ coss' earlier question : well, two days, with 5 30-40 minute sessions per. Probably a total of about 5.5 hours track time. __________________ Mods: Dedicated caged track car, lots of things. \|\|\| Valkyrie Autosport \|\|\| Last edited by ValidusVentus; 12-02-2011 at 12:04 PM.

12-02-2011, 11:50 AM	#4 (permalink)
ValidusVentus Enthusiast Member Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Washington State Posts: 400 Drives: #18 Z34 Rep Power: 22	I'll definitely look into that coss, thanks. In the mean time I'll see if the rotors get better or worse and pick out the LSD I want. Cars still driveable, as long as i don't force the LSD to actually do its job, it plays nice. Gonna call Forged this afternoon and see what they recommend. __________________ Mods: Dedicated caged track car, lots of things. \|\|\| Valkyrie Autosport \|\|\| Last edited by ValidusVentus; 12-02-2011 at 11:54 AM.

12-04-2011, 09:46 AM	#7 (permalink)
ValidusVentus Enthusiast Member Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Washington State Posts: 400 Drives: #18 Z34 Rep Power: 22	Yeah I did call Forged and they have me pretty much set on getting an OSG if I get a diff, gonna get the car into a different shop (Forged is going to recommend one in my area) and get the rear end actually torn apart and looked at so i know for certain what this issue is before I spend a few thousand dollars. There's still a possibility that its one of my bearings. I'll let em know Spohn. Gonna do some more of my own research before I buy anything. About the rotors, looks like you guys -not the dealership mechanic- were correct, I can already tell that they are getting a lot better, and after a few hard decels they seem pretty good now, looks like the pads are winning against the deposites. Edit: Thx for the offer Coss, for now its not too bad (and hopefully still getting better) I do intend on buying more track oriented pads for my next track day and if need be I'll use those. __________________ Mods: Dedicated caged track car, lots of things. \|\|\| Valkyrie Autosport \|\|\| Last edited by ValidusVentus; 12-04-2011 at 09:54 AM.

12-04-2011, 05:13 PM	#8 (permalink)
ValidusVentus Enthusiast Member Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Washington State Posts: 400 Drives: #18 Z34 Rep Power: 22	Ok, just had my front rotors machined lightly, completely solved the issue. Possibly I cooled them off to quickly by not using them much at all on a cooldown lap? Ill just have to be super attentive to my rotor temps in the future. There is thermal indicating paint on the rotors which permanently changes colors with temperature, and according to those I did not overheat the rotors themselves. __________________ Mods: Dedicated caged track car, lots of things. \|\|\| Valkyrie Autosport \|\|\|

12-02-2011, 11:28 AM	#2 (permalink)
cossie1600 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: californee way Posts: 5,380 Drives: 370, Leaf Rep Power: 29	search online there is Professional Cryogenic Metallurgy & Coatings,Atlanta,Georgia,Cryogenic,REM Gears,powder coating,ceramic coating,sandblasting,metal polishing some shops can also get rotors from their local store and charge you at their cost for the rotor plus the treatment. price has gone up quite a bit, it used to be 15 to 20, now its more like 30

12-02-2011, 01:43 PM	#6 (permalink)
cossie1600 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: californee way Posts: 5,380 Drives: 370, Leaf Rep Power: 29	you might get lucky and be able to clean the deposits off with some sandpaper and super aggressive pads. i was able to do so with mine when i didnt bed my xp8 in properly. i can lend you my xp10s for cleaning if you need them. how do you know your lsd is toast? one wheel burnout is pretty normal with the viscous diff

12-04-2011, 06:36 PM	#11 (permalink)
cossie1600 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: californee way Posts: 5,380 Drives: 370, Leaf Rep Power: 29	I agree. I have done a lot of bad things to my rotors and they are fine.

12-05-2011, 01:55 PM	#12 (permalink)
SPOHN A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Covington, GA Age: 45 Posts: 14,844 Drives: Waiting on next Z Rep Power: 221	Update Finally after a long stressful week I've got around to going over my car. First thing my dad and I did today was bleed my clutch. Soon as we started there was a good bit of air in there. Pretty shocked actually. I've bleed this several times before with no issues like this. Must have to be from the track day beating with a combination of moisture in the fluid. Also I thought I had great pedal feel and I did but not like it was after bleeding the system. But all and all everything seems back to the norm. Shifting perfect and the notchness is gone. Maybe this will save me some dough for a little bit longer. I'd still like to hear some more input if you guys have any. Also after looking at my brake pads I wore them babies half way out. Woot. Better get some more. I should get another good day out of them. Course there's not another track event till spring and I drive on the XP 8's. But not DD. __________________ Last edited by SPOHN; 12-05-2011 at 04:36 PM.

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