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Originally Posted by Geoff-AU I removed it but didn't like the free end-play without any spring, so I found a much softer one to put back in. FWIW, after my
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#1 (permalink) | |
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Base Member
Join Date: Feb 2020
Location: Chadds Ford, PA
Posts: 81
Drives: 2010 Nismo370Z MB M6
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Quote:
The helper spring essentially holds tension on this very sloppy fitting, so that you don't notice it nearly as much with the spring installed. The slop is still there, all the time, regardless if the spring is installed or not. You just don't tend to notice it with the spring, as the resistance of the spring blends in with the force of the master cyl against your foot as you depress the pedal. This masks the ability of your foot to feel that bit of slop at the beginning of the pedal travel. RJM now includes a much better designed, tighter-tolerance HD clevis end with all their newest pedals. My thinking is that even the OEM pedal setup could be improved with a better clevis and pin used in the assembly.
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2010 Nismo 370Z #574 . Z1 Post-MAF Tubes . Drop-in dry filters . Beluga Axleback . Z33 Shift knob |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Enthusiast Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: On open empty highways
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Drives: 40th anniversary
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Mine was a PITA to remove too. I had someone depressing the clutch for me while I grabbed the pin and fought w/ it for about 45 mins but it came out eventually
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40th anniversary #450/1000 | Takeda Attack CAI | Ark DTS exhaust | to be continued... |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Track Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Dallas
Posts: 697
Drives: 09 370 sports clone
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I used a baseball bat to seat to hold clutch down. My pin wouldn't slide right either though, I had to hold it with a locking wrench and wiggle/pull out.
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09 370z 6spd traded 1/12/15 for 15 Challenger RT 6spd
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