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READ THIS IF you use Redline oil and Puralator

Originally Posted by ChrisSlicks Royal purple will rape your sister and murder your mother - use with caution. ...and ironically will not be using lube of any sort......

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Old 03-24-2011, 10:03 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by ChrisSlicks View Post
Royal purple will rape your sister and murder your mother - use with caution.
...and ironically will not be using lube of any sort......
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Old 04-02-2011, 11:22 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Pure 1 oil filter IS missing the bypass valve, take one apart if you don't beleive it (it's a little themostatic spring I think).
Elevated ZDDC in RedLine oil does burn up (eventually) the cat; but it also provides the extra protection that later oils (1998'ish - present) do not so it's worth it to me...
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Old 03-01-2012, 07:46 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I just changed my oil with:



I cannot find PureOne filter, staying with K&N HP for now.
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Old 03-02-2012, 11:11 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by CC_370z View Post
I just changed my oil with:



I cannot find PureOne filter, staying with K&N HP for now.
Amazon.com: Purolator PL14610 PureONE Oil Filter, Pack of 1: Automotive

I've done 2 oil changes with Red Line and the PureONE filter
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Old 03-02-2012, 12:59 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Other than price why wouldn't you put a "racing synthetic oil" in the Z. Granted its overkill but Motul makes an ester oil for race applications.
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Old 03-02-2012, 01:02 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dawudih View Post
Pure 1 oil filter IS missing the bypass valve, take one apart if you don't beleive it (it's a little themostatic spring I think).
Elevated ZDDC in RedLine oil does burn up (eventually) the cat; but it also provides the extra protection that later oils (1998'ish - present) do not so it's worth it to me...
Since someone brought this thread back from the dead.....

I wish folks would do some research before posting incorrect information and starting internet rumor.

Purolator oil filters DO have a bypass valve as well as an anti drain back valve. They're one of the best oil filters for the money you can buy. Matter of fact, I don't know if you can even find an oil filter without a bypass valve anymore.

It's spring loaded steel and can be seen in the picture of a dissected PureOne filter below.

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Old 03-02-2012, 02:53 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Oil Filters



Please read it.
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Old 07-27-2013, 06:06 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Default Oil filter analysis

Here is a link to a thread with a very detailed oil filter analysis including filtration efficiency and flow capability: The OFFICIAL Oil Filter Testing and Results Thread (4G63T/4B11T) - evolutionm.net

Very informative.
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Old 07-28-2013, 08:37 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Entirely different platform
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Old 07-28-2013, 11:23 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elperuano View Post
Entirely different platform
The only thing that is platform dependent in the thread is the Mitsubishi oil filter among the other major brands in the study. The entire study is in posts 1,2,3 in the thread. The results regarding filtering efficiency and flow capability in post 3 were not tied to any particular automobile engine. These were the ones that made this study especially interesting for selecting an oil filter for my z.
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Old 07-28-2013, 11:33 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Oh man. I smell nothing but necro here.

I use to run Nissans ester oil but now I'm running Mobil 1 0w40 and I won't run anything else(maybe castrol 0w30 if I can't find M1 0w40)

Redline is good oil, but its expensive, M1 0w40 has all the same ratings as redline does and its cheaper.
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Old 07-28-2013, 01:07 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Oh man. I smell nothing but necro here.

I use to run Nissans ester oil but now I'm running Mobil 1 0w40 and I won't run anything else(maybe castrol 0w30 if I can't find M1 0w40)

Redline is good oil, but its expensive, M1 0w40 has all the same ratings as redline does and its cheaper.
Does it? Show reports then.
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Old 07-28-2013, 02:24 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Does it? Show reports then.
both redline and M1 0w40 meet the same european standards

it says it right on the box and on their websites, i could careless about a used oil analysis report, that doesn't mean anything if you change your oil every 3750 miles

if you like redline, thats great, i dont really care
no need to flame and be a fanboy because someone disagrees with the price associated with redline

EDIT: after looking at your posts it just proves what i said, you're running your oil much longer than you really should be and all i see from your reports is redline is overkill for the engine, its like running a 34row oil cooler on a N/A 370z that rarely sees track time

EDIT2:
looks like mobil1 0w40 meets many higher ratings that redline 5w30 european oil dont meet
again i got this from just a simple look on both manufactures websites

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Old 07-28-2013, 02:49 PM   #14 (permalink)
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EDIT: after looking at your posts it just proves what i said, you're running your oil much longer than you really should be
That's another great thing about a UOA. They tell you what interval is safe to run based on the breakdown of the oil. What are you basing your opinion on the appropriate OCI on?
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Old 07-28-2013, 06:34 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by luigi90210 View Post
both redline and M1 0w40 meet the same european standards

it says it right on the box and on their websites, i could careless about a used oil analysis report, that doesn't mean anything if you change your oil every 3750 miles

if you like redline, thats great, i dont really care
no need to flame and be a fanboy because someone disagrees with the price associated with redline

EDIT: after looking at your posts it just proves what i said, you're running your oil much longer than you really should be and all i see from your reports is redline is overkill for the engine, its like running a 34row oil cooler on a N/A 370z that rarely sees track time

EDIT2:
looks like mobil1 0w40 meets many higher ratings that redline 5w30 european oil dont meet
again i got this from just a simple look on both manufactures websites
Lol thought this was America with Japanese motors

So you believe everything you read from a manufactures stand point? I don't! Give me a new or old sample of both oils and ill let BSL tell the story. I'm not being a fanboy. I want my stuff protected no matter the cost!! And BSL tells me RL has the most moly, zinc, and phos which are your micro lube protectors. Period, end of story. I'm not flaming. You stated an opinion and I simple asked for fact. You can't provide and instead you jump down my throat. Calm down sport.

Lol how I'm I running my oil longer than I should be??!! If anything I need to go longer to cut down on cost! Didn't think 3,000 miles was long. O wait let me guess! You're so pissed off and wanna come at me you're incapable of reading correctly and think miles on unit is miles on oil?? Or you just can't type while upset and meant to say I'm going way to short on changes?

Either way i again will pay more for better protection. If your 0w40 euro oil meets moly, zinc, and phos then ill switch. If it doesn't than its not worth it to me. These motors run hot, they've had some issues with vvel, so I'm protecting my engine period. If RL numbers are higher than yours than I'm protecting my engine better than you are. Does it mean we both wont hit 100k? I have no idea but I'm not looking to find out. If you are, good luck
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