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Everyone with oil temp issues

Originally Posted by tbonesteak ^^ then what gauges were in the 3-pod cluster on the dash in teh 350s? Oil pressure - not oil temp. Edit - I was just

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Old 04-02-2009, 01:19 AM   #1 (permalink)
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^^ then what gauges were in the 3-pod cluster on the dash in teh 350s?
Oil pressure - not oil temp.


Edit - I was just thinking while I was in the shower - and forgive me if this is a stupid thought, because I don't know enough about the car's system to have intelligent thoughts - Is there any chance at all that this could be an electrical's issue with some cars? I mean, is it possible that a sensor is giving a false high temperature reading and causing protective systems to activate, etc? Could it be electrical? A big part of me hopes so. Probably not though.
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Old 04-02-2009, 01:49 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Oil pressure - not oil temp.


Edit - I was just thinking while I was in the shower - and forgive me if this is a stupid thought, because I don't know enough about the car's system to have intelligent thoughts - Is there any chance at all that this could be an electrical's issue with some cars? I mean, is it possible that a sensor is giving a false high temperature reading and causing protective systems to activate, etc? Could it be electrical? A big part of me hopes so. Probably not though.

Chubbs,

This scenario is very highly UNLIKELY. The gauge is a mere thermometer in a sophisticated format. Also, an "inaccurate" electrical sensor will PWN nissan NA with countless amounts of class action suits and complaint claims that it will end up costing the automaker a ton of money. These types of errors are very unlikely in today's lawsuit-happy world. It's way safer to have an accurate gauge that goes real hot than an inaccurate gauge that stays in normal operating temp all the time. Cheers.
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Old 04-02-2009, 02:11 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Chubbs,

This scenario is very highly UNLIKELY. The gauge is a mere thermometer in a sophisticated format. Also, an "inaccurate" electrical sensor will PWN nissan NA with countless amounts of class action suits and complaint claims that it will end up costing the automaker a ton of money. These types of errors are very unlikely in today's lawsuit-happy world. It's way safer to have an accurate gauge that goes real hot than an inaccurate gauge that stays in normal operating temp all the time. Cheers.
Hmm - With respect, I'm not sure I can go along with you completely here, TBone. I agree that Nissan would try hard not to actually design something badly, but for example on the 350z Nissan allowed faulty window winder motors to get through their system and into the early cars, it let faulty Bose stereos get through and - biggest of all - it fitted faulty engines to some of its MY06 350z's, so I reckon that a faulty batch of some small electrical component is highly possible. I'm aware that the guage itself wouldn't be the problem!!

My real question is, could anything electrical (eg - faulty sensor) be actually causing the problem. Any experts out there?
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Old 04-02-2009, 09:39 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Ohh gotcha. misunderstood your initial post. HAHA that would be a real b*tch wouldnt it....when it wasn't overheating in actuality but we and the car thought that.....lol
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Old 04-02-2009, 10:35 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Hmm - With respect, I'm not sure I can go along with you completely here, TBone. I agree that Nissan would try hard not to actually design something badly, but for example on the 350z Nissan allowed faulty window winder motors to get through their system and into the early cars, it let faulty Bose stereos get through and - biggest of all - it fitted faulty engines to some of its MY06 350z's, so I reckon that a faulty batch of some small electrical component is highly possible. I'm aware that the guage itself wouldn't be the problem!!

My real question is, could anything electrical (eg - faulty sensor) be actually causing the problem. Any experts out there?
From what I've seen and read about the engine design the oil is continuously passively cooled by the water coolant circulating in the engine block. There is nothing electronic that controls this, just the in-line oil temp gauge that seems to read moderately accurately. The added feature that was missing from the 350's is the new limp mode that tries to slow you down by limiting RPM when the oil temperature gets too high.

I'm not a mechanical engineer and so not an expert (just have an engineering background).
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Old 04-02-2009, 11:31 AM   #6 (permalink)
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From what I've seen and read about the engine design the oil is continuously passively cooled by the water coolant circulating in the engine block. There is nothing electronic that controls this, just the in-line oil temp gauge that seems to read moderately accurately. The added feature that was missing from the 350's is the new limp mode that tries to slow you down by limiting RPM when the oil temperature gets too high.

I'm not a mechanical engineer and so not an expert (just have an engineering background).
I know that the oil is cooled in that way and not 'electronically'. With respect, that has nothing to do with my question. I want to know if it's possible that an electrical component or thermostat is malfunctioning (possibly just by cutting in too soon, or reading a temp wrongly?) on some cars and the oil temp is in fact within limits, if a little on the high side. If this were the case, it would be a simple fix.

Also (and this is a bit of a side issue), how do you know that the oil temp guage is reading 'moderately accurately'? Without wishing to appear rude, isn't this an act of faith on your part, or do you have proof?

...ps Alan, I get some of my best thoughts in the shower - don't you?
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Old 04-02-2009, 11:50 AM   #7 (permalink)
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I know that the oil is cooled in that way and not 'electronically'. With respect, that has nothing to do with my question. I want to know if it's possible that an electrical component or thermostat is malfunctioning (possibly just by cutting in too soon, or reading a temp wrongly?) on some cars and the oil temp is in fact within limits, if a little on the high side. If this were the case, it would be a simple fix.
The data indicates that the first inital cut in RPM takes place at 280F degrees, and the second cut at 300F degrees (approx as the computer is acting on voltage not degrees). So yes you could theoretically disable this feature but I'm not sure if that would be a good thing.

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Also (and this is a bit of a side issue), how do you know that the oil temp guage is reading 'moderately accurately'? Without wishing to appear rude, isn't this an act of faith on your part, or do you have proof?
I forgot where I saw it, might have been one of the Japanese forums (ask your buddies over there if they know) but someone did replace the sender and gauge with a racing unit as a test and the readings were quite close. It wasn't tested side by side but was under similar conditions. My ability to read Japanese is limited to what the translator spits out so I may have misinterpreted the information.
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Old 04-02-2009, 11:58 AM   #8 (permalink)
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So yes you could theoretically disable this feature but I'm not sure if that would be a good thing.



I forgot where I saw it, might have been one of the Japanese forums (ask your buddies over there if they know) but someone did replace the sender and gauge with a racing unit as a test and the readings were quite close. It wasn't tested side by side but was under similar conditions. My ability to read Japanese is limited to what the translator spits out so I may have misinterpreted the information.
Thanks for that Chris - I agree it would be a bad idea to disable a safety feature.
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