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Hey guys, I was planning on getting a 370Z some time this month and I just got through the 50+ pages and am pretty disappointed. There's literally no other car
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#1 (permalink) |
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Hey guys,
I was planning on getting a 370Z some time this month and I just got through the 50+ pages and am pretty disappointed. There's literally no other car out there right now that appeals to me price/performance/aesthetics-wise as the 370Z so naturally reading about this problem basically felt like getting kicked in the crotch. I'm basically on the fence after reading all of this. It seems like a lot of you have issues while a lot haven't. I wouldn't be taking the car to the track but spirited driving will definitely occur somewhat often. So far it doesn't seem like they're addressing this issue for the 2010 models so it seems like now is as good a time as any to get one. I just had a couple quick questions regarding this issue... 1) This is my first car and I've had my fair share of unreliable cars (used to be a big DSM guy) but I really don't want to have to constantly keep my eye on the oil temp gauge every time I decide to pass someone on the highway. I live in Illinois so I hope this won't be a huge issue but still has me concerned. How serious is the oil temp problem for someone who will be using the car as a daily driver and will not see track time? 2) Has Nissan in fact released an oil cooler available for purchase yet? 3) If so, what are the odds of me negotiating the cooler being worked into the price for free before buying? 4) Finally, and this isn't oil temp related, any ballparks on how long it would take to get the car if I ordered one? I'm looking to get a black 6spd with the sport package. Like I said, this is my first time snagging a new car so I won't settle. I'll wait if I have to, just wondering how long I could expect. Sorry for the noob questions, any replies are appreciated. |
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#2 (permalink) | |||
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That said, temps do get in the 220-240 range easily under normal long-haul highway conditions, so an oil cooler could be considered a good investment anyways to keep the engine in better shape over time and allow you to safely lengthen the amount of time between oil changes Quote:
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Last edited by Gaiiden; 08-12-2009 at 07:36 AM. |
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#3 (permalink) | |
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#4 (permalink) | |
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According to the link you gave me, it doesn't look like I'd be able to negotiate the oil cooler into the price because they wouldn't install it there.
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#5 (permalink) |
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Review the facts, not the hysteria. Your car will run just fine on the street without a cooler. There are 10,000 Z's out there now. If this was REALLY an issue, Nissan would not have come out with the statement that they did. (saying it's OK, but if you track the car consider a cooler)
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#6 (permalink) | |
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Would the rising temps be noticeable if I did a bit of spirited driving during a test drive? |
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#7 (permalink) | |
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"People" can make a lot of claims about a lot of things; don't give "claims" more weight than they deserve. If you are going to track your car; get an oil cooler (just like you would need with any car you are going to put on a race track). If you are going to drive on the street as if you are on a track; get an oil cooler. Otherwise, you "need" for an oil cooler is minimal but if you are really that worried about it, get an oil cooler. Only if your test drive is a couple of hours long on a 100+ degree day and your "spirited driving" is constant throughout.
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#8 (permalink) | |
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1) the car is a sports car that should have been created to be able to handle being driven in the track with out going to limp mode 2) during stop and go traffic (or some cases of "normal driving) on hot weather, the oil would go up to temps above 250 degrees, which led to engine longevity concerns and such it was communicated to AK370z by nissan USA that if the car is being tracked then they would recommend an oil cooler... if not, then you dont need it.... also that the nissan motorsport oil cooler if installed by dealerships..would not necessary void the warranty... in my opinion... and as evident by many who have already change their oil to syntetic... it has become extremely harder to get the oil pass 240 degrees in normal driving (even in stop and go traffic)... so a lot of us have concluded that the issue of oil temps is because of either the engine break in period or the ester oil that everybody change to on the first oil change... if i have mistated something please let me know... ![]() |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Thanks guys. I don't want to come across as a bastard, it's just that my luck with car reliability seems to be...well, I have none. So I just assume that if there's any kind of problem with the vehicle from the factory then I'm 100% certain I'll encounter it.
Granted, every car has its problems but this being the first brand new car I've ever gotten, I'd like it to last a while. |
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#10 (permalink) | |
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i just switch to redline synthetic oil last thursday drove her hard on saturday and first thing i notice is that the oil temp takes a lot longer to heat up compared to when i was running on nissan ester on normal driving condition i am now running cooler(no shifting past 4k) i am at about 210-215 instead on the normal 220-225 but mind you i still saw 240 when i was redlining and "riding" 3rd and forth but as mentioned it did took a while to get there than usual as soon as i start crusing again temps went down im still planning to get an oil cooler just for the peace of mind but at this point i dont think it is really necessary for a daily driven car ![]()
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#11 (permalink) | |
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#12 (permalink) |
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you mean weight? its 5w30 for redline same with the nissan ester oil
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#13 (permalink) |
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Of course 5W-30 is just the default recommendation (and not a bad one). You can (and perhaps should in some cases, but do your homework first) pick other weights to protect the engine better depending on your ambient conditions and driving style. Going thinner (lower numbers) protects you a little better from cold-start wear, so it's a good idea in very cold weather, or if you're doing lots of engine starts per mile (many short trips turning the car off between), whereas going thicker will maintain viscosity at high engine oil temps better for when you're racing. It's all a tradeoff, there's no universal answer that's best for all scenarios.
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