How does your OEM clutch feel?

Jessobear

Excellent, I'll have to look into this.

Endgame

But... does it cause premature clutch wear?

turbodog

"at your own risk"
The net result of this mod is reduced pedal throw. So, if it was to cause a problem, I would think it would be balky shifting, hard to get into reverse, grinding of gears, etc (due to clutch not completely disengaged with pedal at floor). I would think if you have none of these symptoms after doing the adjustment, you are good to go. If you have ANY of these symptoms, and continue to drive it, you could cause premature wear to the clutch and trans.

Jessobear

If you feel like your shifts get harder, you have trouble getting into gears or there is any sort of grinding, immediately reverse this mod. My opinion is that you should be perfectly safe moving the clutch pedal a bit closer to the floor.

turbodog

Hey, pokeyl
I forgot to ask: how many turns did you adjust the clevis? Did you readjust the "pedal stopper bolt"?

pokeyl

2.5 turns, and if you have free travel on both sides of the clutch (up and down) you will not have any problems. My clutch is perfect now, just like the my old Audi tt, before it was like my Dodge 2500 V10, sucked having to move my whole leg to clutch. NEXT I'll look at the top stop bolt to see if I can lower the pedal hight.

Jessobear

I'm confused. Turning in the clevis should lower the pedal, since the rod connecting it to the floor. You should probably check the clutch interlock switch after making this adjustment. With the pedal depressed, the clearance between the threaded end and the rubber stopper is 0.1 to 1.0 mm. You'll need a set of feeler gauges to check that.

pokeyl

It did not lower it and it all works perfect???? I just know I like it!!!!----

Jeffblue

Arnold, hows the shifting going?

DocMaggot

When I last had to lower my Z's clutch I was working on a 2003 350Z. That was 2 Z's ago, but the 370Z I bought today is going to need the same treatment. The salesman I asked about the clutch today said that they used to be adjustable, but nowadays the Z's have hydraulic clutches, which can no longer be lowered.

We shall see! But I was digging around in my browser bookmarks and found this thread: it was the one in an Infiniti forum but it walked me through the clutch job 7 years ago and I reckon I'm going to go back and study it and the photos all over again.

It's a keeper:
http://www.freshalloy.com/forums/showthread.php?t=73620

Jessobear

Believe me, the old clutch was hydraulic as well. Cars haven't come with cable clutches since at least the early 90's. Having a hydraulic clutch does not mean that the pedal isn't adjustable. Having the pedal lower on a hydraulic clutch simply means that pressing the pedal moves less fluid, which means that the pin which pushes the clutch release fork moves less. If you went too far with that, you'd reach a point where you aren't completely disengaging the clutch.

Chances are that what pokeyl did lowered the clutch, but not enough to be noticeable. This is basic geometry. You're talking about moving the attachment point probably 2.5 mm (assuming the thread pitch is 1 mm), which might move the actual pedal about 5-6 mm. This may not be enough to notice the pedal being lower by setting your foot on it, but would be enough to notice a significant difference in feel through the pedal when operating the clutch.

turbodog

Just adjusted mine, and took a brief test drive. Absolutely a 100% improvement. The cruise control switch still works, but is at the absolute edge. The switch gap is slightly larger than the 1mm max. I will adjust it tomorrow.

pokeyl

did you loosen the 2 master cylender bolts? it makes it so easy to ajust

turbodog

Yup, that was a good tip, thanks!. The whole operation took maybe 15 minutes.

mick

either they built my car perfectly or i am a fantastic driver because my clutch feels fine