No loss of fluid suggests the master cylinder is failing. Seals within are no longer sealing and when you press the pedal, the rod just moves through the bore without generating any pressure.

:iagree:

That is definitely the symptom and the culprit. I'm on my 4th OEM master cylinder in 80K miles :shakes head:

It appears as though I will be the first to install a heavy duty master cylinder (RJM Performance) on my Z later today :excited:

Good tip! I am having the same problem. My clutch goes all the way to the floor whenever I drive it hard. But then when its driven normal its fine but still a little soft at times. Doesn't look like I am leaking any fluid from the CSC or CMC.

Don't forget to try the cheap fix before you spend too much money. I had my clutch pedal get spongy and start to drop with no apparent loss of fluid in the hot Florida summer.
I took it into Nissan and they drained the fluid and replaced it with high temp fluid (for free as their recommended tech. Bulletin fix) and it's been fine for 2 years now.
The original fluid was subject to boiling in the lines because of its close proximity to the exhaust and also a good amount of residue from the action/wear in the slave.


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Add me to the list. Drove from San Diego to LA today. In the stop and go traffic near Costa Mesa, while being on the 2nd left lane, the clutch pedal got stuck close to the floor and wouldn't come back to release position. Had to turn on the hazard lights and maneuver around a couple of semi trucks to get to the closest exit. The level of clutch fluid was fine and it was not boiling. Interestingly, after an hour of being parked and cooled down I was able to pry off the pedal with my leg. I waited another hour in order for evening traffic to clear. Then I was able drive back home 40 miles with the clutch functioning fine. I'm afraid it would happen again. Will be driving the car around closer to home or dealer to see if can reproduce the issue. It happened all of sudden today. I baby the roaster even though I drive it fast. And I'm very careful not to ride the clutch.

Put some new clutch fluid in it. If that doesn't work, you probably need a new master cylinder.

:iagree:

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...48bda3fc93.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...48bda3fc93.jpg


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So I have been throwing a lot of money into trying to mitigate the issues I have when it gets hot outside having done the following:

- Added a 19 row oil cooler
- Replaced the OE radiator with a CSF
- UpRev tuned

With these mods the engine temp issues seemed to be solved, but yesterday when it got into the 90s I started to experience a really mushy, unresponsive clutch where when I try to accelerate from a stop, it feels like the transmission is bogged down and the car just does not want to go.

I am wondering that even though I am not experiencing the "clutch pedal drops to the floor and doesn't return" symptom, that what I am experiencing may be the CSC getting too hot.

Would it be worth trying the Z1 CSC Elimination kit if you were in my shoes? I must solve this otherwise it may be time for the Z to go :(

What clutch fluid are you using and how fresh is it? See Post #1528 (three posts above yours) :tiphat:

The clutch hydraulic system in the Z just plain sucks. I've had Z1's kit for 2 years now. And still having master problems. I'm in the process of installing the new RJM HD master. I am fully expecting that to solve my problems once and for all.

If you like tinkering with your car and don't mind a little adjusting or part replacing if tracking hard, the Z1 kit is great because you can essentially replace anything in the clutch system without ever having to drop the transmission again (once installed). But if you want maintenance free, 'I don't want to mess with the slave at all', then the ZSpeed HD slave is probably your best option.

Everything JAR said above, and you may also want to insulate the clutch line. You may just be boiling your fluid. Bleeding the system and insulating the line is a cheap easy first step before you drop the tranny.

Hello guys, I think mine will fail in near future too. 2012 / 54k miles on it.
During a mountain run a month ago, I pressed my clutch and it went in all the way. However, it did not come back up all the way. But I was able to put it into gears, and the clutch got normal after one hour of driving coming back home. So I bleed the clutch fluid about two weeks ago. Yesterday I started the car and tried to put it into gear. However the clutch went down halfway when no pressure was applied (only the weight of my foot was applied) but pressure was needed to be applied in order to press it down all the way from the half point like always. It eventually became normal after 15 minutes of driving.

From what I read on this thread, I think I need to do something about it before it dies. I asked my mechanic about it and he said it will cost over $2000 including parts and labor to fix the problem. Is it correct? However, I was debating to keep the Z or let it go for another car. So if I choose to keep the Z, what will be the best way to go? Change it to Z1's kit and will it solve the problem? Or buy ZSpeed HD slave like what JARblue said? I don't track the Z and it's my daily driver. I just don't want to worry about it after if I decide to keep the Z.

Thank you and sorry for poor English.

ZSpeed HD CSC or Z1's CSC kit will both solve your CSC issue. The ZSpeed one requires slightly less maintenance. It's probably the one you want.

$2000 seems a bit high, but not completely outrageous. Typically its 7-8 hours of labor for the transmission drop. So figure $80-120 per hour for labor - depending on your region. Then add cost of parts should give you a good ballpark on what to expect pricewise. Typically I see $1200-1500 for CSC replacement, including aftermarket CSC cost. Check out Z1 for pricing if you're near enough to them in Georgia.

I still take it to Nissan for service, but I can bring in my own. Thanks!

I havent been up in this thread in months.. sorry for the misfortune fellas. Get that Zspeed kit or the Z1 setup...

Correct me if I'm wrong but unlike other makes and models the csc IS an internal lubricated part in our cars correct?


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Just wondering what you guys think of the new Zspeed CMAK/CSC delete they just released?
I know it is new and nobody probably has it yet, but just wanted to see what people thought compared to the Z1 from the pictures.

Link

https://www.z1motorsports.com/z1-pro...it-p-7340.html

vs

ZSpeed Performance Nissan 300ZX 350Z 370Z Infiniti G35 G37 Q50 Q60

??????

Thanks for posting. I will check it out.


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I'm not sure you can go wrong with either one. Both are great vendors. And having the slave cylinder outside the transmission is ideal if you ever need to work on it in the future.

Ok I'm sure I will get negative feedback, but it seems that when I have the VDC in "off mode", my clutch pedal doesn't seem to be as spongy at higher temperatures as opposed to when I have VDC "on".
I can't figure out how this would effect clutch pedal, but clutch pedal has recovered faster & feels less spongy when VDC is in off mode. I don't recommend turning VDC off when driving on wet road conditions.


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So the Z1 CSC Elimination Kit, RJM HD Master cylinder, Whiteline diff bushings and Wavetrac LSD have been installed and have definitely rectified any inconsistencies/sponginess in the clutch. My Z is running tight!

awesome man!:driving::driving:

Oh, and thanks for all the great information and suggestions fellas :tup:

2014 with 20,000 miles (bought new 1 year ago). Yesterday I shifted gears and the clutch only came half way back up. I was able to pull it back up with my foot and made it home fine having to pull the clutch up with my foot a few times....... This morning it is driving fine and not sticking half way or all the way down.

I want to take it to the dealer but if they can't recreate the problem what is the point? It definitely is not as stiff as it was when it was new but afraid they will just replace the fluid.

How long were you driving for before it happened? In traffic/long distance?

I was on the interstate for about an hour. It happened about 40 minutes into my hour drive. Not much stop and go traffic other than an accident on the interstate so went through about 5-10 minutes of stop and go in 1st and 2nd gear.

Sticky: (Official) 370Z Clutch Pressure (CSC) Failures
 

You got it done for free but did he mention how much a standard fluid change was. I'm having issues but doesn't appear of any fluid loss so it's either the cms or old fluid. Going to do the fluid change soon then see how it acts

I think I'm now victim to this issue. I was driving home saturday night and my pedal went spongy. I was able to get it home, the pedal didn't drop to the floor and there was no actual loss in pressure, but now the pedal is grabbing much higher than normal. I dropped the car off last night at the dealer to see what they say. Anyone else have a similar issue where the pedal went spongy but still had a pedal? Just doesn't make too much sense to me as to how that could be. I just hope they don't say that it's the actual clutch.

This just happened to me a few weeks ago. The pedal went spongy then went totally out. I brought the car back to my shop bled the system and everything was good for 500 miles, then the same thing. Bled the system again and went 300 miles until finally my CSC blew out completely.

Definitely first signs of CSC failure. The dealer will either 1) Say its normal and send you on your way (because "some" of them are a-holes) and 2) They will drain the fluid and fill it up with "GTR fluid" which technically its just a Band-Aid to the problem.

That's exactly what I was thinking. I'm hoping the fact that the service advisor was my old boss at one point, that he'll go to bat for me and hook me up. I'll keep my fingers crossed. I also have an issue where there's an intermittent tapping that you can feel in the clutch pedal when sitting idle. You can feel sort of a "tap tap tap" in the pedal when you slightly depress it. I've complained about this before but I was told the clutch operation was normal and they sent me packing.

Actually that is the master failing. The CSC typically fails catastrophically. The master often fails (causing the soft pedal) and then pressure returns or the system can be bled to return pressure. When one of them fails completely, the pedal will go to the floor and pressure will not return.

However, the failing internal seals in the master can allow contaminants by the seals and into the sealed clutch system. These contaminants cause additional wear on the internal CSC parts which are are already prone to failure. When a master seal slips, fresh fluid is the best counter to the extra risk of failure due to the contaminants introduced. But as you can see from elhombre's post, even that doesn't necessarily help.

wat about wen the pedal pulsates ?

What about it?

Head over to the nearest Honda dealer and trade in your Z ASAP! Do it now! Go! Go! Go!

Yes, I have had same issue. This is my 2nd time around for this problem. 1st time, pedal went to floor and stayed there! I then had a new CMC, Heavy Duty CSC, heat shielded insulated clutch lines and GTR Fluid installed. Also upgraded clutch & installed solid billet steel flywheel (19lbs).
All was good until hot summer weather arrived.
2nd time I had problems, clutch pedal spongy, slow to return, and then I had to pull pedal up with foot to get it to return. 90° plus outside temp, & I was in a traffic back-up from beach.
Made it home. Checked clutch fluid level, it was good, but fluid noticeably darker in color.
Note I do have aftermarket 3" dual exhaust (header back). I think a lot of heat is transferred from them.
Car sat in garage 2 days. I went for drive and clutch was fine, for awhile. But after about 40+ minutes of driving, clutch problem arrouse again.
If I "granny shift" car, with no high rpm, I can get by longer, but that defeats purpose of why I bought the car.
I'm considering the CSC elimination kit, but not sure of fit with after market exhausts.

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I just got off the phone with the dealer and they're trying to tell me that it's my clutch and that nothing is covered under my warranties. Understandable since it's a wearable item, but it's obnoxious since I've had it in for this same concern and was told that my clutch operation is totally normal. I think a call to Nissan corporate is going to be in the cards for this guy. I'm beyond pissed!!

It's not your clutch! It's a design flaw with the CSC, which will eventually cause your CMC to also fail.
Some who have posted here had very good Dealerships that did not include the CSC as a wearable part. I was not so lucky.
Check color of hydraulic fluid; is it showing signs of small dark/black specks in fluid?
I suggest finding a reputable mechanic that will flush old fluid & replace with a better grade of heat resistant hydraulic fluid. If you are seeing specks in fluid, it could mean the plastic fittings within your CSC are breaking down.
Remember, if you must replace either CMC or CSC, it's best to bite the bullet and do both at same time. Go with Heavy Duty CSC over stock, but keep in mind it's better but not perfect. As I am having problems still.
I think I must go with some type of CSC elimination kit. If heat is cooking my CSC now I can just imagine if I install twin turbo the heat will be even higher.

Get "AAA", because the CSC can fail at anytime without warning and leave you stranded!

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