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On a 15!!!! damn bro, I don't know why Nissan doesn't replace that Sh*t
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Looks like to fix this it cost ~1500?
I don't have this problem yet, but my car is out of warranty (2010 with 55k miles). This did happen to my co-worker's 370z though. So I am thinking maybe I should get an aftermarket extended warranty in case this happens and the extended warranty will be worth my money? Any comments? |
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Couldn't agree more. Go with the ZSpeed HD CSC or the Z1 elimination kit. |
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Me personally.. no thanks, i'll pass. |
2015, 1700 miles: Clutch was sticky on the way to work, and by the time I was off, it completely stuck to the floor when pressed; couldn't get into gear. Towed to the dealer and turned out to be the CSC. Fixed under warranty, no questions asked. Had it back the next day.
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Wow that's two. Some BS right there. No way should new cars with less than tens of thousands of miles be breaking. I wouldn't like if it was at the tail end of the OEM warranty with 30-40k on it but 2,000 is completely unsat.
Looks like the thing to check is the clutch fluid and it starts going low, take it in. How often are you all checking that? Apparently once a month is too long :mad: Every fill up, I guess? |
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Parts: $400-500
Labor: $600-700 |
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Or how bout this one: Z1 Clutch Concentric Slave Cylinder (CSC) Elimination Kit (Z1 motorsports). Seems like it might be a better solution. Anyone try this slave cylinder setup? It is too bad Nissan has to put some junk parts on their cars - especially on a clutch! |
Well, count me as another victim of this CSC crap :mad:
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Upgrade to ZSpeed HD |
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:mad: :mad: |
Yes, there is a problem with the OEM, but keep in mind that if you are under warranty... Do take it in and let them look at it before you spend too much money. I looked back on this thread and it's been 2 years since I took my 370 in for this same issue and they did the minimal service bulletin fix of flushing the fluid and changing with fluid used in the GTX?.. it has been working fine since that time.
Maybe I will end up replacing parts in the future, but so far, so good. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk |
Based on his sig Agent K could still be under warranty, but I'm definitely not (only 28k miles, but it's a 2010). It happened once last year, after a panic stop: the problem went away by the time I brought it to a dealership the next morning, and they found nothing wrong. I'd read about the CSC problems, but figured it was a result of the stop.
There was no panic stop yesterday, though: after 2.5 hours of not using the clutch (averaging 80mph on interstates), when I finally needed to downshift suddenly it went to the floor. At first I could pop it back up with my toes, but it was barely engaging and twice it wouldn't come back up/wouldn't let me shift. Had to pull to the side of the highway once. I drove it up to NJ with no problem on Saturday. I'll get it to a dealership today -- I haven't started it yet so I don't know whether it'll be driven or towed there -- and ask them to do the service bulletin fix. *sigh* |
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Just shows what they think of their customers:mad: |
I'm sure they look at it as a simple math problem: cheaper to replace CSC as they fail than redesign the part which may or may not have other issues.
At the very least, they could and probably should buy out the Zspeed or the Z1 solutions but who knows if that really fixes the problem in the long run... or creates another issue down the road. |
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My Google-Fu must be weak. I get a bunch of a threads on CSC failure and a couple aftermarket threads, and links here and a couple other boards.
Was it a particular country and/or model and/or trim or was it individual cars that had an external kit? Or a Nissan Motorsports accessory thing? |
Misnomer: Yes, my car is still under warranty. I dropped it off at the dealership this morning. The service guy said he has a 350Z and haven't had any problems with his clutch. I told him that this is a known issue on the 370Zs. And that my clutch bottomed out and would not come back up on it's own; I had to flick it up with my toe. Also, it's hard to engage the gears when the clutch pedal does return on it's own. They're going to look at it and let me know what they find. Of course, I'll let you guys know what they find.
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Invoice says
401 Misc Transmission 306A1-JK40D CYL ASSY - CONCENTRIC SLAVE 30205-JK40C COVER ASSY - CLUTCH, WITH DISC 306A2-JK40A TUBE - CONCENTRIC SLAVE KN9U0-40001 GTR R35 SPECIAL BRAKE FLUID 2051 REPLACED LEAKY THROW OUT BEARING/SLAVE CYLINDER AND FEED LINE. ALSO REPLACED CONTAMINATED CLUTCH PARTS unless the MC is in the clutch assy, guessing he lied about replacing it. Clutch seems fine now. No mileage, so doesn't appear they test drove. |
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I may be getting to know the corp regional guy pretty well then. :\
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The clutch was still wonky yesterday morning, but I held my breath and drove it the 4.5 miles to the shop. (I'm done with the local dealership. I just don't trust them. So I'm trying a nearby Meineke that's still kind of a small operation, and was nice to me the other week when my tire pressure light came on and I had no place to go to check the pressure/add air.) They were slammed, but the guy said it should be done today. He actually listened to me, then looked up the service bulletin and will try that fix first. Fingers crossed that changing the fluid works, and that everything will be ok until I can get a replacement part (which I will ASAP: I'm not going to wait for the CSC to fail again).
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Well, changing the fluid didn't work. More precisely, it worked for about 10 miles: by the time I got to my office the pedal wasn't returning properly again, and on the way back to the shop it stopped letting me change gears. Again.
The ZSpeed HD replacement CSC is on backorder. :( :( I don't have that kind of time/money to spend on the rental car, so the shop is going to call around in the morning and see what they can find. I told them that worst case they should go ahead and put another OEM CSC in, and maybe it'll last another 20,000 miles and give me time to get the ZSpeed HD. The guy will call me tomorrow and let me know my options. Enterprise gave me a 2016 Hyundai Elantra. I MISS MY CAR. |
Have you considered the Z1 elimination kit and / or why not?
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Anyway, I told him that maybe the clutch felt right because it was cold so have the tech check it again. Even though after a cold start, I can tell the clutch isn't right. Sometimes I believe a lot of these techs don't know how to drive a stick. This was the case with a salesman when I test drove a Z before I bought this one; he could barely get it off the lot. I'll probably have to take the tech on a test drive myself but right now I'm too busy. |
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That sucks, Agent K!!
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I'll repeat: I'm not mechanically inclined. I don't want to be. "You can do it yourself" = NO. :D Any adjustment, no matter how small, would require taking my car to a shop. Even if it's just a 15-minute thing, that's time, hassle, and money I simply see no point in dealing with when the HD replacement part is cheaper and a perfectly good fix. |
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As long as you don't have the HD CSC paired with a SPEC clutch, you should be absolutely fine. It is quite worry free, as you have stated. The main benefit of the Z1 kit I like is if I ever have problems with it in the future, I don't have to drop the transmission (for me that is worth more than the trouble of having to adjust it once a year). And while I don't have the need for it at this time, Z1 also sells replacement cylinders (for a track day spare as they say) for only $60. |
Sounds like you just need a master cylinder, Pedal that is coming and going "at times" is 99% of the time the master getting weak, Slave will go and not give you a warning, Once it goes there is no worky worky at all. It's done once it fails.
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