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Originally Posted by BalanBro I would have thought they would swap the entire longblock rather than pay the dealership for tranferring the heads over to the new block. Souldn't be
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A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: May 2010
Location: SLC, UT
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Drives: '08 Evo X | '10 370Z
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![]() Quote:
![]() It's not so much the rings, it's gaining a plateau finish on the cylinder wall oil retention "valleys." Every block that rolls off Nissan's assembly line is pre-honed and plateau honed to an extent, but there is still some potential to leave the oil cross hatches too shallow or glazed over due to improper break in. I'm going to leave it at my experience of 4 years of building several V6 engines for boosted applications... The problem is not with people refusing to break in their engine too hard, it's with people who are too easy or otherwise follow a bad engine break-in procedure. For the first 50 miles once your engine reaches operating temperature, it is critical to A) NOT idle the engine at all if possible, shut it off if you get stuck at a light B) load the cylinder walls so force is exerted from the rings (have some fun, but don't beat on the engine or let your oil and/or coolant get too hot) and C) engine brake every chance you get to accomplish B) even when you are decelerating and D) do NOT cruise at a constant speed at all if possible - take the hilliest route you can if applicable so you can vary the load on your engine. Continue this procedure for the first several hundred miles, but the no idling rule becomes less important after the first 50-100 miles or X number of revolutions. That's all I have to say; I can promise you that you will not have an oil consumption problem again if you do the above.
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![]() '10 PW 370Z 7AT - wife's car - Project Raspberry Cheesecake '08 Evo X - built motor+trans | BB-X @ 32 psi | CH3OH | self-built+tuned - ??? WHP '01 Galant V6 - built motor | GT35R | self-built+tuned - 550+ WHP (retired) Last edited by WarmAndSCSI; 08-21-2010 at 02:27 PM. |
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