yeah i cant wait to try it out! :tiphat: and you still have it and no issues at all?

No issues yet, other than further risk of traffic tickets.

lol nice

Are any of you guys finding out the car doesn't really accelerate that well when punching it in 2nd or 3rd from a roll? It's like accelerating in 6th. I literally floor it around 20-30mph, and it doesn't quite go anywhere. It does initially, but when I'm almost home it starts to get lazy.

yep and it sucks. im hoping to get rid of that crap with the sprint booster.

Yes, and you know these cars have more bottom end than that. I find it frustrating that I can get more acceleration if I go part throttle low down than I can if I floor it in the situations you are describing.

I am hoping Seb at SpecialtyZ will be able to perk it up a bit but if I feel that it still needs to be sharpened up, I will get the SprintBooster without a doubt.

For those who bought it; have you tried it on the most aggressive setting? Does it make the throttle extremely sensitive?

from all the reviews they say its extremely sensitive. but you get used to it :tup:

I am going to talk to Nissan about this after this weekend. I almost got T-boned today due to near zero response for a full second+. Like others have stated, it tends to be ok toward the beginning, but half way through my trip it starts really lacking low end. I have 6MT, TC was OFF, outside temp 94F (approx). Oil was 220F.
This could be a SERIOUS safety issue. Especially if it's fine (or not terrible) at one instant, then DEAD in another. If I ease on the pedal, it actually responds better than if I stomp it. But when there is oncoming traffic, your gut is to stomp... not the best idea.

Spot on, rolling into the throttle yields the best results. If you floor it immediately, it has a bit of hesitation as if it is thinking about going and then it takes off. I don't feel it as much above 4k rpm but low down is aweful.

Yep and yep. I agree with the 4k RPM.

You guys are right, this is a potentially dangerous issue (i.e., stuck on the railroad tracks type). After driving home from work yesterday, I don't think it's an oil temp issue though I use it as an indicator of how long the car was driven. On startup, the response is pretty good and better with VDC inactive. However, it is still not as peppy as the 350Z. In the 350Z, tapping the throttle can induce whiplash. After 10-15 minutes or so of driving the throttle response becomes increasingly laggy the longer I drive it.

Do you guys manually blip the throttle when downshifting? It's harder to manually rev match in this car than the 350Z. You literally have to tap the throttle over 50% and wait a little bit, or you'll end up bogging when downshifting. On the 350Z, the throttle is so sensitive simply resting your foot on it will cause it to rev quick.

Plus, on startup when progressively pressing down on the gas pedal in 2nd-4th the feeling is pretty linear. Later on, doing the same thing you will feel a bit of a "clunk" as if the car starts revving up at a certain rate and then abruptly cuts to a slower rate.

I messaged NNA a few days ago, and this is their response:

I have the slight throttle response delay as well. One thing I've noticed is that when the throttle is pushed down, the oil pressure drops immediatly (roughly 5 psi) and then the car will accelerate. I would possibly suggest it may very well be the time delay in the VVEL opening up to accelerate the car. With heat soak and high oil temps, it could very well be the changes in VVEL position causing the delays.

my :twocents:

OMG! I thought it was just me! I also installed an oil pressure guage. I just thought I had a faulty guage. But you are correct it does drop on oil pressure then rises back up when you accelerate.

It could be the VDC. Turn it off if youre ever gonna floor your car. If VDC doesnt cut it, then work your way with the clutch

I think it's a combination of the VDC and the ECU's programmed throttle response thresholds based on current RPM.

I'd be interested to know if the SB actually does anything beneficial.

hey guys just did a lil review bout the sprint booster :D

http://www.the370z.com/engine-drivet...z-7-speed.html

This is interesting. On the Evo X, which is also DBW, there is a 2D table that lets you ramp up the throttle response just like the SprintBooster does. In fact, in stock form, there is quite a bit of throttle input ramping on the Evo X. This must not be the case for the 370Z.

I wonder if such a table that maps throttle input to actual throttle plate movement exists on the 370Z. I'm sure UpRev knows about it if it does.

great review!

The stock pedal sends a voltage of 0 to 5V to the ECU to let the ECU know the pedal position, the voltage change is linear but the ECU can react to this voltage anyway it likes. The SprintBooster simply increases the voltage coming from the pedal such that you reach full voltage more quickly, i.e. you are shorting the pedal travel because the 3/4 pedal position is now WOT. You can do the same exact thing inside the ECU, so I say don't waste money on this just buy an UpRev license and do much more.

the delay is its downshifting ,remm its a 7 speed so the higher gear your in the longer the delay..downshift on your own and see what happens..

Ah, so a good tuner can adjust for throttle delay within UpRev (I would assume SpecialtyZ or Technosquare can do this). To what degree can you adjust those parameters on the ECU?

There is no delay per se. There is the throttle position to actual map (you can see these values reading the live scan data via OBDII). The other parts of the puzzle that slow response are the electronic intake control and the VVEL itself. Tuners can address the first 2 currently but none have made available the latter. Bandaid parts like the SprintBooster attempt to address the first issue only by giving you a lead foot. In the process it destroys linearity so trying to feather the throttle through a corner becomes more difficult.

That helps me understand the background, I would send you some rep. but it won't let me lol. This VVEL uncrackability is holding back more than just the power potential of this car then, I knew about the intake control opening up top which must be why response is so much quicker in the upper rev range too.

yes, everything you said is correct. my first instinct was "this is simple tom-foolery, it is just changing the voltage per percent of pedal travel". So in theory the same effect can be had by simply pressing the gas pedal farther and faster. This may be simplifying it a bit, but it is in a sense what is occurring. I'd still rather have a reliable tune than a questionable (reliability-wise) trick.

This is the problem I have. I can literally floor it in 2nd, and it feels like accelerating in 6th. There's no wheelspin, and or back against the seat feeling. The engine doesn't scream either. When making a left turn and giving it roughly 30-40% steady throttle in 1st, the car hesitated around 2k in the middle of the turn instead of linearly accelerating regardless of VDC mode. What's more confusing is that this problem comes and goes.

Last night when I merged I did the same for 3rd and 4th. I didn't quite floor it, but the car jerked back and accelerated hard pushing me into the seat. :confused:

I don't think the SprintBooster will help because I can literally floor it on a roll, and the car can hesitate at random times regardless of VDC. However, on first start and initial minutes of driving it pulls hard. After an extended period (15+ minutes) of driving is when the described problems creep up.

So I go in to my tuner and tried to explain the problem to him. He hooks up the computer to my car (which already had ECU tune) and does something. He then proceeds to look at me and smile and say "Ok.. I'm not going to tell you what I did but let me know if you notice anything".

Definitely no more laggy throttle problems. IDK what he did but it seems to be fixed. I will have to report back to him and get an answer for you guys. (Not that it will help unless you have the same tune however it might lend some insight)

I just read a post today about a spirtbooster. From what I saw it increases throttle response. website was like spirtboostersales.com i think it was like $350. may want to look into it, im going to.....

I read over most of this the other day. Today I was going through the Oct. Option magazine and came accross an alternative to the Sprint Booster from Blitz called the Blitz Throttle Controller. I made a post about it HERE if you care to discuss.

http://www.blitz.co.jp/products/elec...on_pro_ttl.jpg

This was a major problem for my red 370z before I traded it for the 40th. I understand that this car does not have a lot kick at lower rpm but like some, I get to a point where I almost get tboned turning left on a yield intersection for having that slow throttle response. After 10k miles and pulling the trigger on the 25 row oil cooler AND finally switching to redline 5w30 motor oil.. For some reason eliminated that problem on my case. Having the oil temp between 180F - 215F definitely kept the car lively and responsive at ALL gears except 6th. Even after driving for hours.. The "kick" in the lower rpm - just like the first time you start the car - is definitely there. I don't know.. I'm not saying the oil temp and the oil switch to redline is the fix for for everyone but it definitely did for mine.

Now that I didn't keep the oil cooler I'm sure it will be the FIRST mod for my 40th.

-Francis

I'm quite a fan of Red Line in race engine applications, and I will tell you straight up that switching oil had nothing to do with that change in behavior, perceived or actual.

thats bs. he should tell you what he did. you should demand to know what he did, after all it is your car.

It's not like that. If it was a one time deal of course I would find out. He put over 700 dyno miles on my car so we have a bit of history. He likes to joke around from time to time. Also, he's going to tell me but he wants to get the feedback as well in a "double blind" sort of way.

ok that makes sense. i'd love to hear what he did!

Im pretty sure its not either.. But what I was trying to get to is that having lower temp with the help of the oil cooler and the full syn blend cured that dilemma on the red Z by keeping the engine at Fah around optimal performance.

So it looks like a tuner is needed to fix this problem..??

I've had this happen twice since I added CBE & HFC, but I assumed it was VDC or maybe the ECU relearning after the mods.

If it needs a tune, what's the alternative to the Cobb AccessPort since they stopped making it.

i dont know if its already been said but i just throw it in manul and down shift and then hit the gas..

You can just downshift without putting it into manual mode.

oh?

^Just flip the downshift paddle and it will kick down without moving the shifter into M mode.

ah then try that .. then put ur foot down