With the A/C running, in part throttle at least, the compressor is syphoning off some power which will make it feel more laggy.

There's a bunch of little issues that might contribute to these driveability foibles (but again, I still see more 09 complaints... hmmm)

1. Hotter ambient temps (summer...) means less dense air, means less power,

2. No throttle cable means less response may be tuned in to improve emissions, ecomonmy, etc.

3. All EFI'd cars tend to have some spark retard on tip in to control torque and minimize drivetrain wear.

4. Some power will be lost as oil temps creep over 230*F.

5. Some power transfer may be minimized when VDC is on to improve traction.

Most of those issues are tunable/correctable...

Its not a tip in issue, though. Like I said before, initial response is there. It starts to pick up, then it faqlls on its face and throws you forward (because you were bracing for acceleration). The engine tries to wind up but there is no power... then 3-4 seconds later it takes off rather violently. It almost feels like it could be a problem with VVEL, where it is stuck in a limp mode then instantly switches over to full power.

Hmm, that really doesn't sound good at all. Almost sounds like a fuel cut, but the question would be what is the cause of the cut? Could be VVEL, starvation or something else. I'm discounting VDC because you said it has happened with it switched off.

Once again, you described my symptoms exactly. :tiphat:

The thing is, it even happens below full throttle as well. Case in point this morning... making a right turn from a stop sign onto a slow road, I eased out of the clutch and gave it probably 25% throttle at ~1500 rpm to briskly accelerate and again... nothing... then a surge of power after a few seconds of absolutely nothing.

I don't know if it's just me being over sensitive to the serious lack of torque in the 370Z, or if something may actually be wrong. I need to get the car on a dyno and probably see if I can drive another Z to compare the dynamics... Not quite sure what the hell is going on.

Above 4k RPM, though, the car feels like a champ.

I don't understand this. I have a 2009 and I don't have this problem.

I have uber precise pedal response. a couple of months ago I had this problem slightly with the revs going higher around 4th gear but the car not accelerating for a second.

but now it is HIGHLY responsive. dear lord I can make the car shake all around while playing with my gas because it responses so hard

When I put the car in neutral and hood up with stereo, A/C off (so I can listen), I press the pedal down and I can hear a "woosh" of air being sucked into the intake, but no response for a couple of seconds. Again, I would like to point out that this is occurring only at temps ABOVE 220F.

Again, this isn't a pedal response issue... this is something else. Pedal response on the car is fine for me.

I know but the point is, I don't have the lag the people here have and I don't understand why.

is it because I got the AT?

Time to make a video and post it. Flooring it at 1500rpm will certainly have a sense of lag as the revs build a bit.

To be honest, a video won't really do much justice because you have to be behind the wheel to feel what it is happening. Simply having a video showing the RPM behavior won't really help, I don't think. Because to the viewers, there will be a lot of unknowns, which will raise lots of questions (did you do..., that could be..., what was..., etc...).

But maybe I'm wrong.

If turning off the VDC means you are going yo crash in a wall then I can suggest some low horsepower FWD or AWD cars you can opt for. With the summer heat, good tires and a real drivers skill, there's no reason you shouldn't be able to drive with the VDC off.

If you can't keep a sports car stable without the saftey equipment activated, then you basically don't belong in one with or without the safety equipment on.

Too many people want high horsepower sports cars, but no one wants to put in the driving time and learn the techniques of driving them before aquiring them.

On that note, whenever I am merging in my G, I throw it in manual, I get instantaneous throttle response on the paddleshift. Should be the same for the Z.

agreed paddles are the way to go :iagree:

exZZZellent post +1

You probably shouldn't be driving. My normal sequence when I get into my car is buckle, start, turn off VDC, turn on cruise.

Hesitation virtually gone
 

Big thanks to m4a1mustang who advised me to clean the MAF with CRC MAF cleaner. I did that and replaced air filters-pretty dirty after 11 months and some leaves and debris in the boxes. My Z is running like new again.

Glad that you sorted it out! :tup:

Any fixes yet, m4a1?
I will take a look at air filters / MAF's later today...

Other than making sure you filters are clean and unobstructed and your MAF sensors are clean, not really. There is an inherent lack of low-end torque in this car, so it will be a little lethargic under 4k (and especially under 3k) regardless of what we do.

Cleaning my MAF, which I had not done for 23,000 miles :shakes head:, definitely helped in my case.

The biggest thing with this car is that if you want to go, you need to plan ahead. Keep the revs up so you're in the power band, otherwise the car will likely fall flat on it's face. The VHR is quite the dog in the low revs!

Alright, gonna clean today then! I have 25k+ miles, haven't cleaned them. I keep up on the air filters though.

I'm sure you know the drill about handling the sensors, but I'll mention it anyways... don't touch the sensor with ANYTHING! Make sure you unplug it before you spray them, too. :)

Can you explain the process m4a1? And what is CRC MAF cleaner?

It's an eletrical contact cleaner. I don't know if it's any different than other electrical cleaners but I figured the safest (and easiest) bet would just be to go with the CRC branded MAF cleaner that they sell at AutoZone. I'm sure they sell a MAF cleaner at all other auto part stores as well.

You just disconnect the MAF sensors from their connectors, then unscrew them from the MAF tube. Pull them out very carefully, holding at the base, and spray them per the instructions on the can (about 15 good sprays). Let it dry (it dries in seconds), and reinstall. Be careful not to touch the sensors with anything... they are very easily damaged.

If your sensors are dirty the ECU won't receive accurate or reliable air flow readings which can negatively impact engine performance.

While you're at it, clean your filter and airbox of dirt and debris. If a leaf or other debris makes it's way into the airbox it's possible that it could block a good portion of the filter, which can make a big impact in performance.

Yea I just cleaned out my filters last night and ordered new K&N drop in filters. There were alot of leaves and even a piece of popcorn styrofoam in the box :icon14: I'll take a look at the MAF sensors today. Thanks +1!

BTW do you a pic to see where the MAF sensors are located?

I'm going to clean mine within the next 2 hours... just bought CRC on lunch break. I'll post a pic when I do. All you need is a philips head screw driver.
It is in between the airbox and the throttle body.

Ill probably try and clean my maf sensor too. I only have 11k miles on my 09 tho.

Did it, forgot to take pics. Parking lot test seems promising. I'll find out more on my drive home this evening. Try to get pics for you later, if needed still.

How much cleaner can a sensor be if you just spray a fluid onto it and it evaporates? Seems like any grime would likely still be on the sensor. Be careful with spraying crap on these for no reason (like you have <10k mi on the car). A mistake will cost you $232 per side.

I'd suggest you get a scangauge and actually document a problem with your A/F ratios before you start f'ing with sensor cleaning.

I think that's why they have you spray it 15 times, per the instructions on the can. It's just like the PB Blaster. You spray that thing on rusted nuts and bolts a few times and literally watch rust chip off on its own after a few minutes. If they're able to make a fluid that does that to rust, I'm sure they can come up with an equivalent to get grime of sensors.

Exactly. Look up electronic contact cleaners.

:iagree: Scan tools are the cat's meow!

A scan guage is a good idea. I've been meaning to pick one up. But still.. I knew I could probably use a cleaning so I gave it a go and it helped. No harm no foul in my case.

I notice it's a little bit more responsive while it's cool, but still not really a difference when it heats up. =\
oh well. Guess I just have to save up for the oil cooler. If I get one, I will update with my results on this thread.

:iagree: "If it ain't broke, don't fix it!"

Something IS broke. Just don't know what!

Check into the Sprint Booster.....got one love it

There's basically two currently active threads on this issue. The one that we're currently on and this one >> http://www.the370z.com/engine-drivet...-response.html

The 370Z throttle is definitely not as sensitive compared to the 350Z. I test drove my cousin's '06, and I kept giving it gas too early. Perhaps it's for easier engagement. Past that point, however, the 370Z definitely pulls harder and longer.

For a long time I thought the lagging throttle was normal until I saw the thread about the brake switch being off. That definitely fixed the lagging throttle issue and not being able to achieve 100% throttle position. It still doesn't remedy the situation where at times the Z stalls a tiny bit, but it may improve a tad with VDC inactive.

Congrats, you just responded to a spammer. :rofl2: