i do!

No, the guy's a little bit of a flake I think. I called him again in April, but no answer. I've been really busy, I just switched jobs. Need to call him again after I get my car back (assuming the new cat doesn't fix it =\ )

Yeah, first can be a little... unrefined.

Got my car back, took the long way home for an extended test. At first, it felt awesome. But, toward the end of the trip, oil sub 220, the same problems hit.
Busy this weekend, going to test drive a mustang next week. Easy way to fix it =)

Problem fixed =(

did you do it? pics?

bought a mustang I guessing...

must be a slow v6:stirthepot:

Hmmm... in for details.

i just realized you have 144 posts Iced and i bet just about all of them have been in this thread! If you did trade, i cant blame you.

This issue seems to be heat soak related. If I am on the race track or on the freeway I have no lag issues at all. In traffic when hitting a lot of red lights and no air is moving through the engine bay is when I get the lag so bad that Neons and Escorts are beating me through intersections. When the engine is cool or or has fresh moving air it seems to not happen though.

Yep same here. Be nice if we had a fan or something.......to bring in fresh cool air.

It can't be just oil... something else is getting hot and this car just doesn't like it compared to all the other cars I've driven.

it's definitely more than just better air circulation in the engine bay. I've had a replacement hood on the car since november with vents above each intake and the problem still persists. I wasn't thinking the hood was gonna be the fix, just did it for looks.

I'm willing to install intakes and an oil cooler before waving the white flag. And even then, i might trade for a Nismo.

An oil cooler def helped my car feel 'better' and its nice seeing 190 deg temps max, but I still got this lag with it.

Mustang was the most obviously tempting solution... ended up with a Juke. Gas prices and practicality won out. But this problem was the final straw. If it was working ok, I couldn't have done it. Seriously, this Juke is faster off the line, and doesn't stall when on a steep incline from lack of fuel.

You would be correct.

What do the Gen3 owners say?

With stock intakes, my IATs were about 115F when it was happening. I'm leaning to heat soak in the engine bay being an issue rather that IATs.

any one try taking the undershield off and driving around? ive always been concerned about that causing heat soak during idle.

I've had it bog down on me after only 5-10 minutes of leaving my office, though. I'm not sure if the car would heat soak that quickly.

The Juke is a cool car. Hopefully it works out for you... enjoy the fuel economy. And thank you for saving the donuts. :tiphat:

This is exactly why I've given up on my Z and will be saving up for the only good Nissan produced sports car... R35 here I come!

Good to know that air flow nor oil cooler nor undershield removal will not resolve the issue...what next? It's probably been asked and discussed many times here .....but what about the most obvious ...a tune?

To temporarily remedy this problem after bogging this car like crazy, park somewhere and turn off your car. Let it sit for a few minutes, and then start it back up. The problem goes away momentarily.... but why? O_o

I'm not sure how it goes from burning rubber in 1st to not being able to break traction in 1st. It's not consistent. When things are working normally, the car definitely has plenty of power for everyday driving.

A tune appears to work for some people, but not others. One person on this thread (somewhere?!) claims that his tuner resolved it, but wouldn't tell him how / what he did.

I have read, that a lightweight Pullie will resolve this initial lag is this true?

A friend of mines hooked me up with Stillen lightweight main pullie and under drive pullie. I'm skeptical about these pullies. Most likely will be installing just the main crank.

I've read on here it will give you an initial 10 foot pounds of torque helping eliminate this laggy feel launching in first.

Thoughts?

I think a pulley will liven up the engine response a bit, but I don't think it's going to cure this lag. It seems to be like it's something electronically related.

I'd like to see what some trusted tuners say about this. I wonder if Sam at GTM or Trey or Sharif at Forged have ideas.

DIGItonium's sig shows that he's got NST pulleys on the car and yet he's still got the problem. If oil coolers, pulleys, intakes, a tune and Nissan dealerships can't fix the issue then I'll buy that it's ECU-related.

Had the same problem, I thought something was wrong with the car since I have only had it for 3 weeks. My 350zRoadster was fast off the line, my 370z was sluggish. I turned off the VDC or traction control, problem solved!

The traction control on my 350 Roadster was not this tempermental but I can honestly say it make the 370z feel like it's straining. I turn it off everytime i start the car now. I wish I could reverse the toggle so its always off and turn it on when I need it.

-Hooked-

Thanks for the feedback...the mystery continues. :tiphat:

Then you are having a different problem, or at least a watered down version of our problem. This problem we are referring to is irrelevant whether you have VDC or SRM on/off.

^^^yeah i had VDC off today and it fell on its face several times^^^

Does anyone know if this is happening to the Nismo at all?? I don't recall seeing anyone in this thread with a Nismo version and I'm SERIOUSLY considering a trade-in.

WOW, sorry to hear. Thank God I am not having that problem. Yea that would really suck.

I haven't heard of many people in this area (south florida) experiencing this much. I know I haven't. Hell, I don't even think I've ever seen my oil temps go above 220, even when pushing the car.

off topic, do you work on 136 and 14th st by the HBO building? I rarely see 370Z's here and even rarer that I see a red one :)

Also, just a crazy thought, but since this delay or any hanging revs seems to be caused by higher oil temps...has anyone thought to hook up a dummy sensor to the ecu that always would read 180?

I know there could be some repercussions to doing this as many people aren't sure exactly how the ECU works in terms of what's too hot or what it does to limit performance. But that would give you a surefire way to test and see if it is 100% oil related.

I think we've already established that the oil temps aren't the problem, as I've had it happen when temps were sub 200* in the dead of winter.

oil temps sub 200* are a problem in itself.

synthetic only works properly over 220*

Not sure if srs. :icon14:

That's a load of crap. There are plenty of performance cars that run full synthetic and never see oil temps above 220, and it certainly functions just fine.

this solved my issue! :stirthepot: