You pretty much put a nail in the coffin... just get past the annoying throttle limiting threshold. I end up burning the tires while making a left turn, but at least the car gets moving quick. Oh, and boost didn't kick in yet either since I let off the throttle a bit while making the turn. For some reason it puts the throttle response in the "go fast" mode, but launching at lower revs put it in "grandma" mode (no offense to the elder owners).

So what does Hypertech mean when they remove the 0-60 restriction?

I had a Hypertech programmer before I went FI and noticed a huge difference in throttle response.

Is it their own tuning of torque management or something more simple?

:roflpuke2::roflpuke2::bowrofl::happydance:

It could depend on what kind of fuel you put in your car? Do you fill up with 89% octane (regular) or 93% octane (premium). I usually can tell the big difference. I just usually stick to premium gasoline only.

Usually should be always. This car should only drink premium fuel. I'm pretty sure the Owners/Service manuals state that as well.

Torque Management... that's what I think I'm feeling. It was discussed before, but it's very annoying. Must get rid of this TM so I can induce whiplash. So far it's probably the throttle table mods wstar defined. :)

Has anyone tried the Apexi throttle controller?

This is getting stranger and stranger. My 08 G Coupe has no delay, up or down, aside from mass of moving parts which I can live with. The crunchy new Z I tested was lagging uprev in third (say) at 3500 and badly lagging downrev all across the spectrum. A tragic flaw. It's up to Nissan to straighten this out.

Lagging downrev???
TECHNICAL: Nissan 370Z SynchroRev Match Transmission - Accel Times

As stated earlier, the easy fix is: don't go below 3K, or really more like 3500. If you're racing just keep the car in the right gear and there's no need to be that low. If you're just making a pass on the highway or something, surely you can see it coming and downshift earlier. This whole issue is really about drag racers (and even then you can avoid this at the strip with proper launch and shifts, so it's really just about street drag racers from a roll or whatever).

I totally agree with Mikey this is Nissans problem to fix!! Start a poll an see just how many people are having this issue. This is a serious flaw.

This issue goes beyond drag racers. I almost got tboned because the engine decided to bog when turning across a few lanes of traffic.

Most of the time it isn't that bad, but it is a serious problem.

Almost happened to me a year ago. I pulled out to make a left as this car was approaching. It's just a big blind spot with cars parked on the side. I floored it in the middle of a turn and the car just slowly hovered at low revs in 1st.

ive not encountered this..? :confused:

"when turning" - sure that wasn't VDC? But either way... If you think you're gonna need power, don't be down at 1,200 RPM to start.

Haha... nah, just getting the car to scoot as usual in 1st. It just doesn't budge down there. But you're right, if I get the revs up a bit higher in 1st the car gets moving. It's pretty much linear from there. I did that one time (even while the A/C was running) and spun the tires throughout the turn with barely half throttle.

Try disabling the VCD control...

As an update since I switched to the Southbend SS with 14lb flywheel, the issue is still there but far less noticeable. I have a feeling it has to do with torque management + our clunky trans design with the lightened flywheel the car jumps off the line cuts throttle very quickly then ramps up like hell if you push it quickly around 1- 1.5k rpm, it didn't fix the problem but it shortened the "return time" in a big way when the car ramps its power back up.

Eh, I shouldn't have to disable VDC to make a somewhat rushed left turn.

Just to elaborate, there was no traction loss and the clutch was fully disengaged. The car just kind of fell on its *** for a few seconds, then surged forward.

It was without a doubt an engine management issue. The management and engine (other than intake/exhaust) is stock. I agree that some sort of torque management is to blame.

It's a lot like what other people have described here.

Definitely an eye-opener.

Drive by wire

It's not DBW. If it is, then we'd have this delay issue throughout the rev range. It's just held back in the lower RPMs, which is enough to bog at times (hot weather).

You'd be surprised how subtly intrusive VDC can be. "Torque Management" is exactly what it's doing. It's a nice safety feature for the careless random driver who bought a Z for looks, but the way it operates it has no business being engaged on a sportscar being driven properly. I sometimes leave mine on for everyday driving in rainy conditions on unknown roads, where perhaps I can't predict every puddle I might slip on. But, IMHO, it's hard to accept any complaint about the throttle/engine/etc with VDC engaged, especially for remote diagnosis over the intarwebs. Step one is turn that button off and reproduce your scenario.

I've started using sport mode more for turns rather than trying to finesse the Pedal... Even with VDC off... It's like the Manual guys say, the higher the RPM's the less bogging:tiphat:

Read the WHOLE thread. MANY of us HAVE. (ME!!) I turned that damn button off 90% of the time. I almost got into TWO accidents because of this problem. Hence why the car is gone. Well, one accident, and then I got rid of it because it wouldn't give me enough power to get going off of a hill and stalled out.

This is incredibly frustrating when people keep blaming VDC. It is NOT this. I even pulled that fuse.

you shouldnt have to have a return time.it should have normal predictable power like every other car.but,it doesnt :shakes head:

It is NOT the VDC. Repeat it is NOT the VDC. When it is hot outside the car flat out falls on its face off the line. Now that we are seeing cooler temps outside, no bogging or delay whatsoever. I run the Z1 34 row cooler and never see oil temps above 200-205, even in 110 degree PHX summer temps. When it is warm outside, the car bogs 100% of the time...including when the VDC is switched off.

You are 100% WRONG on this. I disable the VDC EVERY time I drive the car. Now that we are experiencing 50-60 degree temps here in PHX the issue has disappeared. When its 85 degrees+ the car bogs 100% of the time. Its a temperature issue, not related to the oil temps, since those are now running no hotter than 200 degrees ever.

This is a NISSAN design flaw in their engine management software...or a sensor issue. NOTHING else it could be.

EXACTLY. Nothing more disconcerting than to press the accelerator and...NOTHING for 2-3 seconds.

Would Uprev fix this?

I'm glad you guys are so confident in your diagnosis. This thread has like 300 random people complaining of roughly similar, but vague, symptoms. I think I'm right that for most drivers it's either a non-issue, a driver issue, a maintenance issue (dirty sensors, poor tuning, mods, whatever), or VDC.

Some of you may have some kind of inexplicable bog in acceleration under certain conditions, and that warrants investigation. Solve the problem, eliminate variables, clean your sensors, check your AF, ask your Nissan dealer to investigate, etc. The car does generally lack torque in the low revs. It's a V6. It's not enough to cause an accident or be a huge impediment to normal driving. The stock throttle also doesn't open fully at low revs no matter how much you push on the gas, in an effort to prevent people wrecking the car, but it still opens way past the halfway mark, and it's more than enough to pull through a corner or get into traffic.

Come on, people manage to not have lack-of-acceleration-induced accidents in little economy 4-cyl Hyundais. Diagnose your issues better and you'll find a better answer than "This car sucks and it damn near kills me because I push the go pedal and it don't go".

Coming from a 4 Cylinder Hyundai and 4cyl Audi Turbo before that, they both had bogging when mashing from a U turn which is when the Z has caughten me off guard and I expected different. Although I do see the traction light at times when I know I'm in full control, so I do also feel there is something Nissan could improve on there! :tiphat:

"The car does generally lack torque in the low revs. It's a V6." Whatever.
My 2012 FJ Cruiser is a V6 too and it does not bog when the weather heats up. Its not a drivers issue, poor maintenance, poor tuning, etc. Its a FLAW. Sorry that we are raining on your "Nissan can't be wrong" parade. I'm done reading YOUR posts on this, and will continue to see if someone else posts something useful to help solve this NISSAN FLAW on this thread.

I get this once in awhile and we all are already familiar how the car falls flat on its face in hot weather. It was in the low 50s and oil temps were at least 160-170. The drive from work was fine. I was at home briefly and left to go out to dinner. The car decided not to make much power. I accelerated in 1st and 2nd as usual and when it got to 3k or so it felt like someone took my foot off. I even floored it and it felt like I was in the wrong gear. Later I found myself flooring it several times in 1st and 2nd and it felt similar to accelerating in 5th at low speeds. It wasn't making any power. I couldn't get it to boost either at WOT past4k.

Everything seems fine. It idles and cruises well. Afterward the car was fine again.

The car doesn't scream either so it feels like throttle isn't opening up fully. Definitely going to get it checked. My tech thinks something is wrong with the throttles after describing times I had difficulty starting the car. Maybe it needs cleaning. [Shrugs]

[EDIT] Morning drive was fine. I can get boost easily in any gear at half throttle at 3k. The car will get tail happy if i floor it in 2nd or 3rd haha. Weird?

Yeah, I'm the Nissan Can't Be Wrong guy :bowrofl: I'm also terrified of the fact that you'll never read any of my posts on some message board. How do you expect someone to help you with this NISSAN FLAW? Have you investigated all possible causes? Can you repeat the problem accurately under a given set of conditions? Have you tried modifying those conditions in various unbiased ways to see which of the conditions might be unrelated? Can you accurately describe this repeatable problem in excruciating detail? Does that exactly match up with the symptoms of everyone else you're ganging up with on this issue?

Make an effort to rationally solve the problem instead of jumping on the Nissan Sucks bandwagon without any real cause is all I'm asking. I don't think heat alone is your problem. It's not a big enough factor to describe the catastrophe everyone's describing here. There's some other understandable fault here, one that can be isolated and remedied.

For the most part, this thread is a long list of people who apparently share similar symptoms, at least vaguely similar, and at least as a one-off event. That doesn't make for a shared defect on Nissan's part. Everyone needs to get to the bottom of their problem and see if there's a shared cause. Who knows what you'll find. Perhaps you'll find that 6% of all 370Z owners experience these symptoms, and over 90% of those reports end up having a root cause of a faulty sensor wire that comes loose too easily and screws up the ECU's behavior. Then you could come back and say "Nissan sucks, they can't make good sensor wire connections." Or it could turn out to be more like 2% of all users having this vague symptom, but the causes don't line up. You end up with 10 different causes. One of them's a few fluke sensor wires coming loose, a real defect. One's a dirty MAF sensor. One's a guy didn't realize one of his PCV hoses came loose after installing an aftermarket intake. Another had bad gas, etc. A large chunk of them didn't turn off VDC to test, even if you did.

You can't know until you do the investigation part. What this thread acts like now is more like a mob.

Add to the list is the brake switch. I had similar issues, but I wish there's an easier way to check to see if the brake switch is intermittent. The SLIP light won't indicate the car is cutting power due to faulty brake switch anyhow. I may go ahead and get it checked or suggest replacement.

That's just it- owners shouldn't have to do an "investigation" over why this specific model of car produces specific issues in specific scenarios, especially if they just want to report an issue and see if someone else has experienced it. This issue is specific to the 370- even the 350 didn't experience it (as an owner of both cars with over 150k miles between the two- the 350z forums also don't have a similar thread) It's not a matter of VDC according to the posters here, but there is a common observation of ambient air temp being a possible issue.

Your observation that it may be a dirty MAF sensor, or loose wiring doesn't explain these observations. You suggesting it's a lack of torque "since 4 cylinders exhibit the problem" is nonsense. If you had truly felt this problem, where there's literally close to no power for several seconds before the car "surges" forward, you would understand.

While I appreciate your comments, it's not the place of the consumer to diagnose and fix a design flaw (if that's what this is). All we can do is report our issue and try to root out a common cause, which is what's going on- it's not a "mob", it's a group of owners who are frustrated by their cars exhibiting a hard to diagnose problem that goes beyond your "it's a v6 it doesn't have a lot of torque" diagnosis.

The only time I've felt anything similar is issues with UpRev's revlimiter when I switch back from a low mph/rev -limited map to an unlimited one. If I switch and quickly take off, or switch on the fly while already rolling out through a parking lot, there can be delay before it opens up the limits.

I've felt lots of minor bog issues in this car related to various intake issues, VDC, and the inherent throttle opening delay on this car (which isn't a fixed timer, it's more like the throttle won't open fully until the revs get higher at current throttle settings).

My point about the v6 comparisons is that if the problem is any of these various minor issues with intake parameters, heat soak from high external temps, stock throttle limiting at low revs, etc.... those effects are not normally anywhere near strong enough to describe the problems some people describe in this thread (the multi-second delays with no throttle response at all). Even taking all of those factors into account, there should way more than enough acceleration in this car to avoid serious issues.

Whatever you're facing, it's not the stock throttle map's failure to open fully, it's not just the engine's timing when breathing hot intake air and/or having high coolant temp, it's not a minor intake volume adjustment, and it's not the normal way that the engine limits torque. The only thing that comes close to those symptoms in my experience is VDC limiting wheelslip when you floor the gas more than traction allows for while turning out onto a road.

Other than that, I think anyone that's having such a severe problem has to have a malfunction that needs to be diagnosed. Most of our cars *don't* have this problem, or there would already be a massive recall underway. Even everyday drivers who know nothing about cars wouldn't accept a high rate of cars just completely ignoring gas pedal input for several seconds inexplicably. They'd all be back at the dealership in mass numbers and this would be a huge issue.

If you can reproduce the issue reliably, but you can't figure out what it is on your car that's failing unlike most of the other cars out there on the road, then go reproduce it for a qualified technician (dealership or otherwise) and have them diagnose it. There's got to be something broken and fixable. Either that or a commonality between everyone who really has this severe issue that points at a common defect (e.g. they're all 2009 cars from a certain VIN range which have a certain option).

It is unfortunate that much of the cars have this "issue" out of the box. Yesterday the car would not accelerate at all. I've added a shimmy to the brake switch which solved the issue the first year of ownership. New switch ordered. Next up is to clean the throttle body and PCV. Last is tune, which I hope will eliminate flat spots and help with response. My car is already modded so this is what I need to do anyways.

Bring back from the dead with update. New brake switched seems to have resolved my lagging throttle and poor low end acceleration issues I've been dealing with since '09.

The shimmy added to the brake pedal helped with the brake switch contact 2 years ago, but it did not eliminate the hesitation and rough acceleration feeling as if the engine wasn't sure what to do.

So I convinced my dealer to install a new brake switch since I was told some Altima owners experienced similar issues. Plus, some users here complained about difficulty accelerating which felt like limp mode. The week prior, I was in a situation where all of a sudden the car lost power. I floored it in 1st and 2nd to redline, and it took awhile to get there. Plus, boost wasn't building up at all. With the pedal to the floor, it felt like the throttle was as barely 1/4th and wouldn't ramp up past 50% (enough to get the turbos to spool).

Anyhow, the car feels great for the past week. Acceleration is brisk and smooth. From tip in I can feel the car want to scoot, and as I slowly press down on the pedal power kept building up without hitting the wall. I'm also able to get the car moving fast from a stop when making a left turn.

So for everyone out there with such issues, try to convince your dealer to change out the brake switch. Vibration might cause some sort of intermittent behavior, or the signal out of the switch is wonky.

^ Interesting, I may try to convince my dealer to replace it. Still a bit confused as to how the brake switch would effect throttle lag.