Originally Posted by wstar (Post 1852258)

The only sane way to disable VVEL is to replace the heads. VVEL is an oil-pressure-driven mechanical system with an eccentric shaft, etc. The electronic servo just controls the angle between the shafts. Somehow disabling the ECU's control of it would probably be catastrophic.

Have you gone over all the basic maintenance/inspection stuff? PCV system, air filters (not clogged, not leaking air around them from a bad seal, etc?), clean the MAF sensors, reset the idle air volume, check for exhaust / intake tract leaks, etc. There are a lot of "little" things that can adversely affect engine performance.

Originally Posted by kenny's 370z (Post 1852352)

edit;on lunch today,i took the grounds back off the throttle bodies and i believe the grounds were hurting more than helping.this car is like a woman.moody as hell lol

Originally Posted by Compdoc777 (Post 1852481)

You can control when the VVEL kicks at what rpm. That will affect fuel efficiency, but give you more power lower in the band.

Originally Posted by kenny's 370z (Post 1853211)

i took that sensor out that is connected to the vvel motor that goes in the top back side of the im.it was oily.not dripping, but oily.so when you clean the maf sensors,hit that one too.

Originally Posted by wstar (Post 1853019)

^ VVEL is always active, it's pretty integral to how the ECU operates this engine (VVEL != VTEC). I'm pretty sure the normal throttle butterflies *do* vary in some situations though, they're not completely static.

Originally Posted by IcedZ (Post 1853357)

Interesting.. I never looked at that. Did it make any difference?

Originally Posted by kenny's 370z (Post 1853706)

i will say that keeping that rear sensor clean and oil free is just as important as the maf sensors if not more so

Originally Posted by Compdoc777 (Post 1853453)

VVEL is not like Vtec. VVEL controls valve timing on intake and exhaust. VTec controls the valves in Honda you have a extra lobe on the cam when activated these open all the valves will open using this hotter lobe on the cam. Now i-Vtec adds the VVEL to the mix with variable valve timing to the intake and exhuast for better performance through the RPM band.

Originally Posted by wstar (Post 1853795)

Doesn't this sensor have a partner on the front of the other side of the engine, if you're talking about an actual VVEL sensor? Or are you talking about the MAP sensor that plugs into the top driver-side rear of the upper intake manifold?

Originally Posted by kenny's 370z (Post 1853211)

i took that sensor out that is connected to the vvel motor that goes in the top back side of the im.it was oily.not dripping, but oily.so when you clean the maf sensors,hit that one too.

i also found this interesting;
http://www.allanglesdesign.com/porta.../CCV_Bible.pdf

Originally Posted by wstar (Post 1853325)

I really like that PDF, good explanations I haven't seen elsewhere. Currently my car is in his "Stage 1" config. I have a really good quality baffled can on the PCV side, and stock hose on the fresh air side. (Well, our car has two of each of those lines, and I've run my PCV lines together with a Y-adaptor for a single can).

It's tempting to go ahead and run dual cans with his stage 3 setup for the NA 370Z, and I might get around to that someday. You could use the existing fresh air paths since we already have two of them, just replace those plastic baffled things with regular hose through cans, and then cap off the PCV valves and corresponding manifold connections.

Originally Posted by kenny's 370z (Post 1864439)

i hooked up a 50a toggle switch tonight to my fans so that i can turn them on when oil temps reach 200.i hooked it up in such a way that it is totally reversable and does not interfere with the ecu.took the car out for some testing running it hard.

no hesitation for me and the car didnt lose any power.uprev fan mod is a must and i will be getting that sometime in the near future.for now,my temp fan mod stays and when i get ready to do some very spirited runs after car is fully warmed up,ill hit the switch and im good.

highest i seen my oil temp after this mod tonight was 210 where it should have been 225-230 with how hard i ran the car.it was 65 degrees out but the fan mod is still needed .25 row oil cooler before next summer and this hesitation should be completely gone for me.nissan surely made a big mistake programming the fans to come on when they do.thats 75% of the problem imo

Originally Posted by kenny's 370z (Post 1864511)

its simple.the black wire on both fans coming out of the fan motors (the drivers side is tight to work with),peel back some rubber coating off of both wires.tie them in together and tape up accordingly.then run the wire into the cabin.i put a inline 40 amp fuse on it just in case.once the wire from your fans are in the cabin and hooked up to a 50a switch,simply ground it out on a seat bolt on the floor.now the fans will come on when you have the car on but they will not come on with the car off.you will have to take the overflow tank out or just move it over out of the way to do the drivers side cause the wire is very short from where it goes to the relay to the fan motor..
you will need;

one fuse holder with 12 awg wire and fuse
around 24ft of 12 awg wire
one 50a toggle switch(2 prong,not 3)

i will mount the switch tomorrow in one of the blanks by the cup holder.i had it laying in the seat tonight testing to see how it worked before mounting it.hope you have some patience cause you're going to need it.make sure to keep the switch off when you are running the ac.

Originally Posted by wstar (Post 1901942)

My transmission never has a 3 second delay, that's huge. 3 seconds is like, time to eat a burger while you're waiting or something.

Originally Posted by wstar (Post 1901942)

Were you in manual mode before the U-turn, and in the right gear? Was VDC on maybe? My transmission never has a 3 second delay, that's huge. 3 seconds is like, time to eat a burger while you're waiting or something.

Originally Posted by wstar (Post 1901942)

Were you in manual mode before the U-turn, and in the right gear? Was VDC on maybe? My transmission never has a 3 second delay, that's huge. 3 seconds is like, time to eat a burger while you're waiting or something.

Originally Posted by wstar (Post 1902640)

I'm just saying, there's a lot of missing data there on some of these reports. It may not actually be the transmission's fault :)

Originally Posted by OMGiGOTaZ (Post 1903119)

No, prior to later that night I HAVE NEVER USED MANUAL MODE :shakes head:

No lights On

It's very odd:mad:

Originally Posted by wstar (Post 1903292)

If you're not using manual mode, eh, who knows what gear you were in or when it decides to downshift for you. It's hard to complain about D-mode much. The car can't predict, only you can. Put it in M-mode and ride the revs down into the corner and downshift to keep them in the happy range (downshift as you're braking and you should already be in the right gear to accelerate out when the time comes).

"No lights on" I assume means nothing unusual on the dash, and you did have VDC engaged (the default on startup). VDC will interfere with any aggressive U-turn attempt...

ETA: However, I take no responsibility for you listening to me and wrecking. It's up to you to drive the car correctly :)

Originally Posted by kenny's 370z (Post 1915992)

is there something wrong with my z ? here is the run down.right after i bought it used with 58k on the clock.i did a lil spirited driving on the back roads shifting at 5k.right before i almost made it home,the car bogged bad like i had clogged cats(seriously ?).next day,runs perfect except when i take the rpms up to 5k.now,if im getting on the interstate,i can take the car to red line from 2nd on and not have a problem as long as the car stays in motion and air is being blasted in the radiator.

i have done tb bypass's,muffler delete,intakes and grounds and all this helped alot.now, in the mornings the ambient temp is down in the low 60's and when i take it to 5k rpms in a couple of gears and then put it in 6th,mashed the pedal at 80mph,car accelerates like im driving a moped and oil temp is barely over 180.is it possible i have partially clogged cats or is this the symptoms everyone has ?

im really trying to like this car but i hate driving a car that acts like something is wrong with it 90% of the time unless im getting on the interstate hence the main reason i started moddin the car to try and keep the engine bay as cool as i can.i stay on top of oil maintenance and make sure my maf's and map sensor are clean.thermostat seems to be operating normally and coolant is where its supposed to be in the overflow.

in other words,i have to drive this car like grandpa around town shifting at say 3.5k or i get bogging like something is wrong with the car.doesnt matter what gear im in. i see other people on here tracking and drifting their car with no problems but as soon as i take it say from 0-130 and immediately slow down in 80 ambient,coolant is REALLY hot(too hot imo). and by that time the oil is 200 from the beginning run of 180 oil temp, its bog city like i just lost 100 hp or more.imo,something is causing the coolant to get too hot and the radiator cant keep up.what am i doing wrong ? or is it i have a sports car that i cant drive like a sports car ?.im seriously at a loss here and i have no cel's.

i have read on here that a cbe helps with this ? right now my main concern is to try and fix this problem before i do any more power modding.if i cant,car will have to go.i have also checked the brake switch and its operating normal as well. any insight before i get rid of the car ? and btw,these symptoms were way worse when the car was completely stock.

i have also read there was a guy on here that his tuner turned something off in the ecu and he claimed to never bog again.i would die for that info right now.WHAT DID HIS TUNER DISABLE ?

EDIT; nvmd.started lookin for another car after 4k miles :mad:

Originally Posted by anthonyy (Post 1916457)

:facepalm: There is obviously an issue... possibly with the MAF sensor...
It's funny how you think the problem will be solved by mods...

Originally Posted by kenny's 370z (Post 1916549)

its funny that when i turned my radiator fans on 100% via toggle switch from a cold start at lunch today in 81 ambient,i didnt have any problems whatsoever.so obviously,the cooling is the problem.i shouldnt have to upgrade to a bigger radiator for the car to operate normal with just shifting at 5k.even then,when the ambient temps get back into the 100's,this car STILL wont have proper cooling.i love the power but hate the bogging and delay.

Originally Posted by kenny's 370z (Post 1916686)

no i havnt

i have z1 tubes and custom filters(car did this way worse stock so my filters are not it.)thats the thing,i want a perfect running car.200 hp or a 1000 hp. not one that makes me feel like im driving a pos one minute and a great car the next.its too bad this car couldnt have the power it has without the vvel.just raw displacement power with out having to rely on vvel.

edit;this morning it was 58 degrees out and in 10 minutes from start up,i was having bogging and it was not from heatsoak.

Originally Posted by OMGiGOTaZ (Post 1916772)

My Audi had this issue and 120 days and about $4000 later it turned out to be clogged CAT, ordered the delete pipe, problem solved!

It wasn't that simple but why bore you with my problems when you have your own

Originally Posted by kenny's 370z (Post 1916805)

did it run great one day and not the next ? i have a feeling it MIGHT be the cat or cats.that would be great if it was !