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Just put on LTH's, then you don't have to worry about failing cats :)

well it's not the cats.it got down on the interstate tonight and all i can say is.this car baffles the hell out of me :ugh2:

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The blue stuff comes with new cars. Even the dealer uses the green stuff.

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The dealerships are supposed to use the blue stuff in our cars during maintenance. It's called "Blue - Long Life" on the side of the bottle.

Maybe that's all this problem is. A bunch of bad thermostats. Anyone else (DIGI?) care to try this?

Interesting....my dealer used the green on the 30k maintenance (flush radiator). Radiator temp on the cluster has never reached an alarming range...just the same never trust the gauge, testing the thermostat like kenny did is more sound.

I will try this....

Q: a lot of guys are using Redline WaterWetter, would this be a good additive to the blue coolant from dealer?

Red Line Synthetic Oil - WaterWetter® Coolant Additives - WaterWetter®

I just flushed the coolant system twice the past few months... pretty exhausted at the moment lol. The car is at the dealer almost once a month for little things... next is seat belts.

I am hoping it is the thermostat. Please note that that I had this dreaded gas pedal delay 'early in the morning after driving about 5 miles'. I left the house in the morning, drove 5 miles to the gas station, filled up and when I tried to make a right turn, the car just sat there for seconds (felt like forever).

And just to refocus, the gas pedal delay is "separate" from the lethargic/sluggish performance when the temperature is hot. I believe I solved this issue when I installed Modshack's oil cooler setup.

I thought you can just hit the paddles and it will go into manual mode for a bit?

Tbh going into manual mode and downshifting is much faster than flooring it in D.when you choose the gear you want to be in, its instant power opposed to waiting for the car to downshift than getting the power.

Oh and you make it sound like its a pain to drive a MT, all I have to do is press the clutch and shift into a gear lower than overdrive(I usually shift into 4th) and I have my power lol.

Kenny I would think if the coolant is hot as hell going in to the radiator, and cool coming out, I would say that shows the radiator is doing its job? Either that or there is low flow, but that is probably not a radiator issue (but could be the thermostat)? Anyway I think the thermostat thing is very interesting. Was your replacement a Nissan part? What temp are they specced at?

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I haven't been here in a while, but I added the 34 row cooler from Z1, oil temps now run no hotter than 200, even on 110+ days and the car still does this. Absolutely mind boggling how Nissan can let this go. Its a serious safety issue...several times I have punched it to enter traffic etc and the car has fallen on its face.

I'm sorry, but there's no way that's from a little extra heat in the engine. More than one issue is being confused in this thread, repeatedly. What you're describing sounds like VDC to me, which is a whole separate issue. Even if our engine was at half its potential power due to some monumentally bad tuning at higher temperatures (and it's not...), it would still have enough power to get up and go in traffic.

With a bunch more Z experience under my foot, I agree it appears to be the VDC:ugh2:

It's interesting the 350Z doesn't have this problem. It pretty much has a nice 1:1 response.

The 1:1 feel on the 350 was always consistent and crisp. Compared to 370, it's the one thing I miss. Although, admittedly, with finesse you can coax the same response from the 370. It's just not as much of a black and white jolt like it was before. It's layered now, lols.


Tapatalk & such etc

Yeah, I got into a minor 'accident' because of it. I stalled on a steel hill, tapped the car behind me. No damage or injury. I traded it in the week after that.

Ditto... stalled on several occasions. Lately I'm really feeling the car fall flat on it's face regardless of temps, I'll floor it in any gear and the power isn't quite there. Then there are times it goes wild and catches me off guard given the same pedal input. [shrugs]

What I've noticed is that it appears when wheels are still turned but if I straighten them out before giving it more Gas she lets loose even more than I expect sometimes :icon17:

im curious if anyone on this board has installed a csf radiator and an oil cooler if the delay is still happening in 90+ ambient when running the car hard ?

When you guys say gas pedal delay? Are you saying delayed throttle response or reduced power output? The way this conversation is going on here is hella confusing. It's 2 topics rolled into one.

1. Throttle response is fixed with a proper intake mod.

2. Summertime engine power reduction. As long as hot humid air is flowing through the intakes? there will be some performance reduction in summer months. Would adding a bunch of cooling mods improve this sensation? Maybe? By what percentage? Most likely very small. The best mod for this problem is called spring and fall.

Price to performance, it's not the kind of mod you do unless you truly need to replace the parts spoken of. Then you go higher grade. But the money is yours and you guys can do what you like. When the sub 90 degree days return? You will also feel your HP return as well.

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For reference, 60 degrees, drove 5 miles, filled up the tank, and when I tried to make a right turn from the gas station driveway, the car just wouldn't move for a few seconds. Based on my experience, pedal delay has nothing to do with temp; so I would not experiment with bigger radiator.

At first I thought it was delay, but not anymore. It's just the feeling of the throttle not opening up at lower revs. It's a completely different feeling compared to the 350Z (definitely more consistent even if it is touchy), and I guess that's what everyone's missing.

Losing power due to higher ambient temps is one thing, but the weather is much cooler now. There are times I can break the tires loose in 2nd from a roll, and then there are times I can't even get the car moving in the same gear even with VDC disabled. It is pretty inconsistent. There's this weird feeling when pressing down the pedal that the car would accelerate, but falls flat the further I press down on the pedal. The same for 1st gear. There are times it'll surge to redline, and other times I can hold down the pedal and not get the tires to spin out. I tend to get the car moving in 1st at low revs around 1-1.5k RPM, and the car ramps up real slow. I'll even floor it, and it makes no difference. Past 2-2.5k power surges, which makes it tough to get the car moving smoothly because I'll go from bogging to giving it too much gas to get the car moving.

Plus, revving in one spot just for kicks is funky. It revs up slowly compared to the 350Z when briefly punching the pedal to the floor. Anyone notice how much harder it is to manually rev match with S-Mode disabled? My time is off, and I have to hold the pedal down longer to get the car to rev when down shifting or I'll bog.

[EDIT] I'm going to check the brake switch again. I had similar symptoms a couple of years ago, added a shimmy to one of the brake switches, and the car was great fun to drive again.

Between the VDC and different shoes I wear, she's a tricky beast:bowrofl:

But when wearing my boots, oddly she feels jussst right!:eek:

For those who have been experiencing this often enough, can you try mixing your 91/92 octane premium gas with racing fuel? I am just wondering if raising the octane to 93-95 makes a difference?

One more question... Do we know if this pedal delay is country specific or worldwide? Is it just us in US?

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Hmmmm.... I hope u r right about getting the pedal delay fixed. That delay is IMO a severe safety issue.

Keep us posted after a month.

Gas Pedal Delay
 

I know this has been suggested before, but I will recommend it again...USA Sprint Booster...love it

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I just bought a Mishimoto Thermostat which opens at 150 degrees.

Should be installing next week.

You havent gotten any CEL with no thermostat?

yes,it took 3 days for the cel to pop up.if i drive the car normal on the highway at 55 mph,my dots want to stay on the 3rd one.WAY too cool.i had read that the mishimoto also throws a cel ? let me know if it does even though i will most likely be getting one light be dammed.too much power to be gained wiTH lower coolant temps.

I have only seen that CEL with the Mishimoto were thrown with non-FI 370zs.

It also depends on the location and weather.Miami is hot and humid 24/7/365

I will keep everyone updated.

well worse case for me would be to get the mishi thermo and block a portion of the rad like people do with the oil cooler so it will stay just warm enough for DD and yet still have enough cooling for spirited driving until summer temps come rolling around again.

Exactly you can do that!

I have the intercooler blocking my CSF radiator so I shouldn't see any CEL.

We shall see.

I found a fix!

I drop the clutch at ~3,000 RPMs every time now. No gas pedal delay! ;) :woot:

true that but watch out for that heat soak and clutch wear !! :tiphat: